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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 10:44 AM
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Default Jacking Advice

Greetings! I was wondering if you could help me with this process, and I want to do it safely.
I have a Stingray that I have added the ACS zo6 style splitter and rockers

I like the idea of getting a low-profile jack, with one of the cross members. I saw a picture of one of these here on CF.
I want to jack up the front in one shot, and then place the tires in wheel cribs. Then, move to the back and jack up the rear in one shot. Placing the rear wheels in wheel cribs.

I don't think I would be able to get a low-profile jack all the way to the front jacking point. I was thinking I could use a small ramp. How much height would I need from a ramp to get a jack far enough in to do this? Would 2 - 2.5", would that be adequate?

How does this plan sound? What am I not considering? Thanks!
(picture below for reference, but not my picture)


Last edited by rsnate; Oct 8, 2021 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 12:25 PM
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I use two jacks at the front puck locations (drivers and passenger side) because reaching the cradle position up front is basically impossible unless you have a really long low jack. My method requires going slowly to keep the vehicle even / level side-to-side but it works for me. Depending on height of the wheel cribs just doing each corner individually can work because the car never gets so high that you are dealing with extreme angles.

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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 02:08 PM
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Buy yourself a Quickjack. Makes the whole process of jacking up a Vette much easier.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 02:45 PM
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I Jack up from the front puck high enough to place a 2 by 10 inch board under the front and back tires. Then do the same on the other side. Once the car is elevated on the board you will be able to reach the front jacking position. Place the cradles under the front wheels. Then Jack from the rear. Be careful the car is not on any incline.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 06:30 PM
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Buy a 2 x 8 - cut two pieces 30" long and two pieces 24" long. Now cut a 45 degree bevel on one end of each piece. Stack the 24" on top of the 30", even at the square end, and screw them together. Cut two 3"-4" pieces and screw them on top of the 24", again even with the square end, to act as a stop. Slowly drive the front tires onto this homemade ramp and you are now high enough to get your low profil jack under the front of the Corvette.

With the price of lumber, you may have to take out a bank loan.

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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 09:57 PM
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You are going to have to get the front end up in the air a bit, whether that be by ramps or just jacking up each side, in order to get a floor jack in far enough to lift the car from the front crossmember. The car just sits too low to do so otherwise.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 07:13 PM
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The front is the tough end. If I run the tires up onto 2x10s I can barely get a jack in far enough. A longer jack would make it easier but from everything I have seen about jack points, you don't want to jack in the center of the subframe w/o something like you pictured at the rear. (It is aluminum and it is hollow and not real thick. I almost wish mine were steel because jacking this car is the biggest pain of all the cars I have ever owned.) So for that, you need more height. I do the same as JMII. 2 jacks, one at each front puck point. And then a 2x6 and another jack to the subframe. Yep, that is 3 jacks. I have one older aluminum standard sized jack and 2 of the HF small aluminum jacks. And you have to be careful you don't take the front too high, or you won't be able to get under the rear. I think duckvett has a good idea w/ the double thickness 2x10s. I have several single 2x10s and think about building like he suggests. What keeps me from doing that is that all my 2x10s have various amounts of splitting, and some have had to be trashed. So I have been waiting for plywood stuff to drop price and think I will make the equivalent of the double 2x10s but from something that doesn't warp and then split when driven on.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 07:38 PM
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What do you guys think about race ramps?
I know I can’t get the wheels off, but I think for simplicity maybe I should just do that.
I think I could do what I need to with those, and they are pretty affordable. Oil changes / coolant

are they pretty safe?

I would like to have a safety net besides just the ramps. (10in lift)
Would jack stands work for this or not really?
I assume wheel chocks would be a must.

interested to hear your thoughts..
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rsnate
What do you guys think about race ramps?
I know I can’t get the wheels off, but I think for simplicity maybe I should just do that.
I think I could do what I need to with those, and they are pretty affordable. Oil changes / coolant

are they pretty safe?

I would like to have a safety net besides just the ramps. (10in lift)
Would jack stands work for this or not really?
I assume wheel chocks would be a must.

interested to hear your thoughts..
I love my race ramps. I bought them for my C6 and continue to use them. Great product.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 10:17 PM
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Race Ramps are excellent. Very safe.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 11:36 PM
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I've had my Race Ramps for about 12 years now and they're still like new, albeit a little dusty. IIRC there's a YouTube video showing a semi tractor driving onto the standard car rated ramps. If they can hold a semi they can handle a plastic Chevy 👍
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 08:56 AM
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I believe with race ramps or any type of ramp.The rear has to be at least driven on a board at least 3/4 of a inch thick so a low profile jack can clear the exhaust to jack up the rear center with a single jack.
Or jack from the rear puck sides one per side.
Got a set of Dumpster ramps thrown out from a bridge building.A wooded Shim

Price was right and gets the job done. Just high enough to catch that front crossmember with 1 Jack. File photo of my 2nd freebie oil change.Caught the loose filter.. Very Lucky

Last edited by DALE#3; Oct 11, 2021 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 11:07 AM
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I use 3 harbor freight lightweight aluminum jacks (1.5 ton).
1) put a jack under the rear cross member under the diff. Jack it up about 3 inches.
2) you now have plenty of room to get the other 2 jacks under the front pucks. jack the front up 8-10"
3) go back to the rear jack it up to about 8-10" you now have plenty of room for oil, trans and diff fluid changes.

here is the controversial part, I NEVER USE JACK STANDS, that's right living dangerously. The way i see it , i have 9,000 lbs of jack capacity and i am only using up 3500 lbs worth.
I am only use 39% of the jacks capacity. If one of the jacks fails, i probably wont get killed, . The chances of two jacks failing at the same time are pretty slim. It's not like i'm sleeping under the car just under there for a few minutes, whats the big deal.
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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by freeride59
I use 3 harbor freight lightweight aluminum jacks (1.5 ton).
1) put a jack under the rear cross member under the diff. Jack it up about 3 inches.
2) you now have plenty of room to get the other 2 jacks under the front pucks. jack the front up 8-10"
3) go back to the rear jack it up to about 8-10" you now have plenty of room for oil, trans and diff fluid changes.

here is the controversial part, I NEVER USE JACK STANDS, that's right living dangerously. The way i see it , i have 9,000 lbs of jack capacity and i am only using up 3500 lbs worth.
I am only use 39% of the jacks capacity. If one of the jacks fails, i probably wont get killed, . The chances of two jacks failing at the same time are pretty slim. It's not like i'm sleeping under the car just under there for a few minutes, whats the big deal.

While working on a Wrangler, didn’t take time to reposition jack stand after moving jack for just “a few minutes”. Pressure applied to suspension caused weight to shift. The jack didn’t “fail” but shot out and the Jeep fell on my hands. I didn’t get killed, but it was a big deal: 3 surgeries and a lot of rehab. That was an expensive lesson. I’ll never again put any body part under a car without jack stands

Middle of thumb

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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 12:10 AM
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^^^
"Like" for this post does not seem quite right, but your message is both clear and correct.
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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by GADawg91
That was an expensive lesson. I’ll never again put any body part under a car without jack stands
Wooow! Glad you are ok.



I think I am probably best off using Race Ramps! They seem by far the easiest and probably safer than me trying to use multiple jacks or rotating sides of the car etc....

So it's highly recommended to use Jack stands when using a Jack.
What about when using Race Ramps? What can you do for an extra layer of safety? Jack stands work for that, or not really? Anything you can do?? I like the idea of redundancy. : )

Thanks!

Last edited by rsnate; Oct 12, 2021 at 01:48 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 09:28 AM
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With Race Ramps you can make sure the parking brake is on, and chock the wheels.

I do not recall anyone having a safety issue with Race Ramps.
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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Elk
With Race Ramps you can make sure the parking brake is on, and chock the wheels.

I do not recall anyone having a safety issue with Race Ramps.
Awesome, thank you. I went ahead and ordered some Race Ramps. I think that would just be best for me. Thank you all
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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by freeride59
here is the controversial part, I NEVER USE JACK STANDS, that's right living dangerously.
Well at least we know what message you want on your tombstone.

These HF jacks leak... I wouldn't dare get under a vehicle only supported by fluid pressure
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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rsnate
I went ahead and ordered some Race Ramps.
Make sure you have the correct ramps, and maybe extensions, needed to work with your vehicle.
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