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Does anyone have a process for this? Had my motor snack on some pistons so I had a motor fully built. I've waited about 8 months and lots of $$$$$. Picking up Thursday and shop just reminded me to clean out pump and lines.
If it were my engine and I thought metal had gotten into the oil pump I would scrap it. Even if there were a remote chance there’s no way I would reuse it. This would be an excellent time to upgrade to the Katech billet pump.
To flush the reservoir and lines I would buy several gallons of WD40 at the local hardware or parts store and flush profusely with that.
The shop built my motor. I pulled it, dropped it off, and am replacing. They told me to remember to clean out the dry sump system. They recommended brake cleaner. Cleaning the lines is rather easy as my car is on my lift and they are just hanging there. I think my question was more around, "how do I cycle fluid through that pump? I am going to ask the tech tomorrow when I go pick up my motor. At roughly $10K bet your *** I am taking all the precautions I can to make sure the motor is safe. At 20K miles and doing a build like this sucks.
The shop built my motor. I pulled it, dropped it off, and am replacing. They told me to remember to clean out the dry sump system. They recommended brake cleaner. Cleaning the lines is rather easy as my car is on my lift and they are just hanging there. I think my question was more around, "how do I cycle fluid through that pump? I am going to ask the tech tomorrow when I go pick up my motor. At roughly $10K bet your *** I am taking all the precautions I can to make sure the motor is safe. At 20K miles and doing a build like this sucks.
Buddy get a small pump one line is a feed the other is the down return line, Get you a gallon of brake cleaner in a bucket, then a small elec pump into the bucket of break cleaner to the feed line, Then let all of that go thur the system then back out into a empty bucket, Then I got one gallon of cheap oil and then do the same thing with that.
Then I used a rag around the one line and blow into that with the pump & get all the stuff out of it. This is what I did to get my dry sump cleaned out & no problems with it. Just a pain in the *** but you can also pull the dry sump out of the car and do it like that then put it all back into the car. I had a small pump so I did it like I am tell you. Robert
Last edited by robert miller; Oct 27, 2021 at 03:30 PM.
The shop built my motor. I pulled it, dropped it off, and am replacing. They told me to remember to clean out the dry sump system. They recommended brake cleaner. Cleaning the lines is rather easy as my car is on my lift and they are just hanging there. I think my question was more around, "how do I cycle fluid through that pump? I am going to ask the tech tomorrow when I go pick up my motor. At roughly $10K bet your *** I am taking all the precautions I can to make sure the motor is safe. At 20K miles and doing a build like this sucks.
I used the Melling MPL201 to prelude the engine and fill the oil pump. There’s a port by the oil cooler and another by the air conditioner compressor where you can access the oil passages on the block if the engine is out of the car. I put the engine back in and assembled the oil system so I ended up accessing the oil system on the valley plate. While that’s not ideal it accomplished my goal and I had oil pressure on startup. Does that help?
You need to disassemble and clean the dry sump, discard hoses and the oil cooler. Here are some snapshots I made from the FSM engine replacement procedure:
Cleaning out dry pump and lines
