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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 11:30 AM
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Started my car today after first freeze last night. Car started no issue but got Reduced Power Message CEL and no acceleration. Goes into gear but nothing at throttle. Then threw TC lights. I am guessing battery??? Any ideas??
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 11:36 AM
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Well what were the trouble codes?

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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 11:37 AM
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^^^
Yup. Reduced power can be from hundreds of things. Need to read the codes.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 11:47 AM
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The only message was reduced power and cleared with button. Shut off and restarted got same thing.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:13 PM
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Lets head down to Autozone and have them do a code reading if you don't have tools to do it.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:20 PM
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Don’t know that I can drive it. Won’t accelerate
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:22 PM
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Now it starts and accelerates but idle is rougher than normal. CEL is on
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:29 PM
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Buy a scantool, pull the code. We can't guess what it is.

Or call somebody and have it towed to the dealer.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by vader86
Buy a scantool, pull the code. We can't guess what it is.

Or call somebody and have it towed to the dealer.
Hard to say what the issue is without obtaining any codes that may have been set.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:35 PM
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Ask Autozone for a loaner scantool. Put it on your credit card and NOT debit card so you can easily get it back when you return the tool. If it is debit, it might come back as cash.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 12:39 PM
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It starts and accelerates with no reduced power messages. Still have CEL and a rough idle. Put a trickle charger on for now. Néed to go to work in a few minutes. Will see how it acts when done tonight. Might be a trip to the shop for codes tomorrow morning.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Theron4569
It starts and accelerates with no reduced power messages. Still have CEL and a rough idle. Put a trickle charger on for now. Néed to go to work in a few minutes. Will see how it acts when done tonight. Might be a trip to the shop for codes tomorrow morning.
I'd get a loaner tool first and see what codes you get. After which we can see what is going wrong.
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 08:34 AM
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Reduced power and rough idle is / could be a bad combination. After reading codes, possible a bad AFM lifter or broken valve spring. Don't run it until you get a better idea what the problem is.
Code readers are cheap, Amazon.
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 11:12 AM
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After a day on the charger the charger lights were lit compared to 2 when first hooked up. Car started with no codes or CEL. Battery was low when tested today. Battery replaced and all is well.

Ron
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Theron4569
After a day on the charger the charger lights were lit compared to 2 when first hooked up. Car started with no codes or CEL. Battery was low when tested today. Battery replaced and all is well.

Ron
Sounds like you dodged a bullet.
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 11:35 AM
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If this is the case, I would change the battery or at least test it.
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 11:38 AM
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Battery has been replaced with a new one. Definitely a big sigh of relief. Was praying nothing more serious. Thanks for the help.

Ron
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Theron4569
Battery has been replaced with a new one. Definitely a big sigh of relief. Was praying nothing more serious. Thanks for the help.

Ron
But was the battery bad or under chargeed? If the latter, why?
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 05:55 PM
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Bad battery is a fairly common cause of problems like you experienced. It happened to me recently in my CTSV, which has a Vette powertrain. The instrument panel showed reduced power, antilock brake error, and some others I have forgotten. I have a code reader and it showed the master “you are screwed” code of P0601, meaning bad ECM. I then thought, what about the battery? I got my old trusty $25 volt meter, and sure enough, the battery only was putting up 11.3 volts. I changed the battery, and things went right back to normal. So while a code reader is usually very useful, sometimes it is not the answer. If I had believed it and replaced the ECM for about $1000, it would have done no good. The problem was the $150 battery, and the codes did not show that as a problem.

Last edited by LDB; Nov 5, 2021 at 05:56 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2021 | 06:28 PM
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Personally, I would never just replace a battery without testing the alternator.
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