So according to another thread I just realized I have 10 qts of the "wrong" European Formula Mobil 1 0-40W and not the ESP with dexos formula. Can I mix 5 qts of the "correct" oil with 4.4 qts of the "wrong" oil or stay away from the European formula altogether?? I would only do 2 oil changes with the mixed formulas then go to the correct oil from there on out.

 

yes you can do it but if me I wouldn't do it over time it will do damage anyway that is what they say.

 

Am I correct in saying that the damage done would only be to the catalytic converter’s, and not the engine? Additionally with that small amount and short time period, any damage probably would not even be measurable.

 

Based on the multiple threads Ive read this is the case. However I cant quote a 100% credible source. There is a forum member that spent his career in oil and made a lot great posts (cant recall his name)

 

Since you don't know the effect the wrong oil would have and it obviously is of some concern to you, the money and time spent to replace appears worth it. Do it for peace of mind.

 

@LDB

 

That is what they say but if any thing does happen IF THEY DO there checking they can tell from the test wrong oil was used.

 

Exactly, change your oil to the correct manufacturer specified dexos2 ESP 0w-40 and be done with it.

 

I doubt there is an issue with leaving the 0W40 European Oil in the engine for one oil change cycle. It won't damage the engine although it might decrease catalytic converter life to some degree that is more than likely far into the future Vs happening while that oil is in the engine. I also doubt if a catalytic converter fails within the 8 year/80K mile emissions warranty the dealer will send a sample of the engine oil to GM for chemical forensic analysis to see which type of oil it is.

OP: change the oil when it is time to change the oil and put in the correct oil the next time.

Bill

 

And keep in mind that motor oil shouldn't even enter the catalytic converters, unless you're burning oil. The levels of zinc and phosphorus aren't super high, but higher than the ESP oil. And as I've said in several threads, there is absolutely no history of chronic catalytic converter failures on C7s. The biggest problem with the Euro oil is the level of sulfur that can cause intake valve deposits on direct injection engines.

 

But European makes, such as BMW and Porsche, also include engines with direct injection.

Why would these oils be an issue for a Corvette, but not European engines with direct injection?

 

Things have changed. Look up BMW and Mini problems with intake valve deposits. They've switched to low/mid SAPS oils on the direct injection cars. Look at the attached chart. The Euro 0w40 no longer has BMW or Mercedes approvals, just Porsche.

 

I'd stay the course of "mixed oil," were it in my C7. I do not think it'll matter. I've mixed oil here and there for years, with no negative impact on my diesel engines and gas engines.👍

BTW, my Mercedes-Benz turbodiesels take Mobil 1 ESP formula, or, Mobil 1 turbodiesel truck engine oil - as does my HD Ford truck turbodiesel.

 

Thanks for recalling the CF member. ^^^^

One thing in reading 📚 his tutorials is that he doesn't push the Panic button as many uninformed armchair experts do regards oil.👍

 

agree. I was assuming his car was out of warranty.

 

Dexos 2 spec and ESP oils have existed for years for diesel engines. They work well and keep engines clean.

 

I would use 100 percent of the correct oil.

 

I would not take the chance and would go with what is recommended. If you have not opened the oil yet, try to return it and get the right stuff for your car.

 

Thanks for the positive comments about my posts. I stayed out of this thread in the early going because I don’t have any data on which to base a clear cut answer. My general purpose comment is that I’d be seriously surprised if actual difference in performance of the two oils was significant. Car makers have bickered pretty much forever on which of the secondary specs are most important, with secondary meaning everything beyond viscosity, VI (the spread between plain and W number), and dino versus synthetic. On the latter issue, even the forum favorite of group 3/4/5 synthetic is in the secondary spec class. If such answers were obvious, car makers would have agreed long ago and we wouldn’t have so many different flavors of oil specs.

The warranty issue is low, but not zero risk. The forum has some horror stories of denied claims basis wrong oil. That said, odds you’ll have an oil related failure in street use are very low, and odds it would be related to such similar oils are even lower than that. But zero odds? No.

For perspective, in my own 2011 CTSV coupe which is basically a supercharged Vette engine, I use 5W30 full synthetic Dexos 1 spec oil. I intentionally omitted brand since I’m not in the endorsement business. I avoid any brand or spec of 0W40 because they require VI improver additive which at least as of 2010 when I retired, was not reliably stable out to full oil change interval. Might VI improvers be more stable 12 years later? Maybe. But since I don’t have either of the two conditions where 0W40 has an advantage over 5W30 (cold weather startups in single digits or below, or very hot oil over 250 on the track), why should I take the VI improver risk? No VI improver is needed for 5W30 full synthetic, and if the VI improver in 0W40 degrades, it thins to 0W25.

 

Reading between the lines I 'think' you do your own oil changes. Until the advent of direct injection I was never much worried about oil. Use a major brand in the correct viscosity, mixing brands once in a while, mixing viscosities once in a while to get a correct average from two that I had on hand, etc and never worried about it. Now it concerns me a little more especially since my 19 still has some warranty left. So, if I were you, I'd drain the oil into a clean container and put in the correct stuff. I would use the old oil in another car or mower.