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Just bought a 2015 Stingray Coupe and the only flaw on the car is the plastic cover on the underneath of the rear liftgate. It looks like the previous owner didn't check the clearance and shut the trunk with something in the way and it has a crack about 6 inches long. It looks like all one piece from what I can tell and you can't just replace the underside of the liftgate. Any ideas??
Ouch - bummer. I have no idea if that piece is easily repaired. However, I do know that it is very easy to mar or mark that area. I haven’t found a safe solution yet to cleaning that area other than a damp microfiber cloth.
Just bought a 2015 Stingray Coupe and the only flaw on the car is the plastic cover on the underneath of the rear liftgate. It looks like the previous owner didn't check the clearance and shut the trunk with something in the way and it has a crack about 6 inches long. It looks like all one piece from what I can tell and you can't just replace the underside of the liftgate. Any ideas??
can you sand and put in some type of filling ? Shot in the dark but a suggestion’
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
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Yeah, if the hatch is like prior generations, the upper and lower portions are bonded together. I haven't seen any posts on repairing something like what you have, but if you do find a way to make it look good, hope you will share it with us.
I do not know how wide the scratch is, but, I would seriously think about using a Sharpie to shade the exposed white.
If the color was close, you could find some Kiwi Scuff Polish. It will build up with added applications. I used to do that on the plastic shift panel on the C4, before a car show.
For me! I would want to stop the crack from spreading further.
I would fill with 'Loctite FBA_1363589 Glue Super Ultra Gel'(Amazon). Squeegee in with a soft edge to fill and get into the crack.
This Gel is not fast drying. I really found it bonds very well. Let it dry for 24 hours minimum.
You could put a piece of tape over the crack during drying time to hold in glue and allow to push the glue into crack.
After a day or so, lightly sand and color with a black sharpie. It will show but is better than seeing the white plastic.
Good luck with whichever method you choice.
Loctite FBA_1363589 Glue Super Ultra Gel
Last edited by Ron_Attleboro_MA; Mar 8, 2022 at 07:24 AM.
Reason: Use smaller image
Grind out a groove into the cracked area
Fill it with kitty hair filler
Sand it flat
Skim with a tiny layer of body filler
sand
spray with high build primer
sand
spray again with high build primer
sand
hit it with some semi gloss black paint in a rattle can to blend.
Of Course, remove the hatch from the car and put it on a stand for this work.
The average DIY'er should be able to do this at home and have it turn out nice enough nobody will ever notice. It wont be perfect without repainting the entire bottom of the hatch professionally.
I would try ABS plumbing glue if it is able to snap back into place. Put the glue on the crack then snap back into place. Wipe off the excess with acetone.
Our family owns a Body Shop (3 generations), and yes, I agree, drop it off to the professionals and they can fix it fast and properly. There are so many different epoxy products that you may not get adhesion and realize you wasted a lot of time and money. We have dozens of different epoxy kits open and can dispense the needed amount to do the repairs correctly. This way it will last and you didn't purchase a bunch of materials for a one time use. Hope this works out for you.
Rick
However, I do know that it is very easy to mar or mark that area. I haven’t found a safe solution yet to cleaning that area other than a damp microfiber cloth.
Just echoing the above. The paint in this area is even weaker then the red letters on the fuel rail covers, it comes off if you just look at it wrong. I too thought it was just your typical interior plastic trim then realized its a painted, composite surface in fact the black is painted over the vehicles exterior color (so blue in my case).
I hope a place can repair it for you.. maybe even have it painted a color or something while your at it maybe you could do a repair and do a carbon wrap or something.
Then apply a coat of Glazing Putty, lightly sand with 220 grit, then give it a coat of “Semi Flat” (available at Orielly’s). Semi Flat is the closest rattle can equivalent of the original factory color.
I'd probably let a good body shop do it. Ask for a cash deal and maybe you can save 5-10%. If it were my 2008 RAV4 for 232k miles, I'd do it myself 100%. Not a 2015 vette in pristine condition. I'm not disagreeing with the people in this thread that are talented enough to do this. Only speaking for myself. Not my skill set.