I was on my way to dinner, driving normal and in no particular manner that would cause an issue. All of a sudden, just before arriving to the destination the haunting chime came on -

-Service stabilitrak
-Service Airbag
-Right Blinker stopped working
-Key Fob not found (not the replace battery message)
-Engine light
-Car wouldn't restart after I parked it

This was pretty concerning because it actually locked me inside the car. Neither of the doors would open despite the key fob being able to lock/unlock the doors. I could put the key fob into the steering column and restart the car but was actually stuck inside with my date. I had to basically put half of my body in the rear to open the drivers door with the emergency door release. She had to climb over the seat in order to get out.

When I returned to the car (after dinner) - I still couldn't start it without the key fob inside the column. The car was running perfectly fine, no limp mode and no drive issues. On the way home, the only light on was the engine light, no other errors on the screen.

The next day, I was hoping it would've reset but the engine light was still on so I went to go get the code read. Only 1 code: U012A - Lost communication with chassis control module

I drive it home and during my drive home the engine light turns off and the car is literally behaving like it's never had an issue before. This is really frustrating as on 6/13 my B2B warranty ended.

Has anyone ever had these issues with the Chassis control module and is there any way to fix this? It seems that it's sensor/electronic related and not an actual drivetrain issue but I don't want to continue on with these types of uncertainties..

Any advice/suggestions?

 

I suspect the battery in your 2015 Stingray needs to be replaced.

A tired battery causes all sorts of random appearing problems like this.

 

I've read this in other threads too and assumed that might be the case. Especially because the issues go away - like they're battery load related.

 

Auxiliary door release on the floor??

 

Are you talking about the pull release in the rear left of the car?

 

 

There is a driver and passenger mnual release for the door handle.

 

Okay load test the battery first, make sure it is good under load not just voltage. If you need a battery grab a ACDelco Part # 48GHR stay away from el cheapo store batteries make sure it's fully charged before you install one. Then check plug wires, coil connectors. Check if any connectors in the circuit are corroded/loose. It's a good place to start. As folks stated a bad battery cell can cause a myriad of problems. A bad coil gave me insane error warnings Just start with the easy stuff first and keep us posted of your progress. A good modern code reader is helpful as well to log errors as you trouble shoot. It can be frustrating and I hope it's something simple.

 

This would have been really good to know hahah.

 

There is a remarkable amount of good information in the manual, including an "In Brief" quick start guide at the beginning that includes a lot of must know information.

 

Glad you can have a laugh at yourself. The problem sucks and it's good for everyone in the car to know about those door release handles on both sides.

 

When I first got my C6 Z06 I ran into the same door issue due to the door control module inside the door failing. I was stuck in the car at a cruise-in and asked somebody to reach into the hatch area and pull the door release. Then another C6 owner came along and said, Why didn't you use the door release on the floor? Consider yourself lucky, you could have ended up like this guy: https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/...ette/71053474/

It does pay to read the OM thoroughly.

Bill

 

Hey bud , I didn't read the other replies but I've owned a 14 z51 for the last 6-7 years and it's been driven over 50k miles. I've experienced the same exact weird things
There has been a few culprits.
1- battery - even though u think it's fine it might not be. I've had new batteries fail. These cars are so sensitive and dead batteries leave crazy messages and weird electrical issues
2- loose connections- 1 tiny thing costed me $2k. There is a small black wire connected to the negative battery terminal. That wire is a ground from pcm for alternator voltage from what I read. Mine looked fine but was actually stripped and loose. The wire is short and tight so EVERYTIME I hit a bump it would come off and my car would die. Also check the other connections are tight n clean but that small wire cost me 2k . dealership replaced so many parts .
3- starter / alternator - just have them checked out

 

Lots of good advice - especially about checking the battery to ensure it is in top shape. Good luck - hope this turns out to be a easily fixed issue.

 

Thanks a ton for all your responses - getting the battery checked out today and will check all the connections in the mean time.

Appreciate you all.

 

OP, your thread is eerily similar to a problem with my Denali a few years ago.

Driving in town one day, I started getting unrelated error messages.

Warnings for stabilitrack, airbags came on. The door locks started unlocking, locking while driving. The transmission went in 'limp home' mode. It was a mess. I pulled the car over and turned it off for five minutes.

After I restarted the engine everything was fine. The problem reappeared again before I made it home.

In the following weeks I got the Denali into the local GM dealership. They could not repeat the problem. Two other shops could not find the problem either.

Frustrated, I decided to troubleshoot it myself. But it took a week or so of research for me to get a grasp on modern day electrical systems.

My first question was, 'what do all the service codes or electrical problems have in common that would cause simultaneous errors'?

In my case, what would cause simultaneous stabilitrack error message, the door locks to cycle and the transmission to go into limp-home mode?

The answer – the GMLAN communication network.

I found the problem in the cable bundle running to the transmission. From the factory the cable bundle was wrapped with the cheap corrugated plastic tubing. Over time and many heat cycles the corrugated tubing became brittle and fell apart. Some of the wires, now unprotected began resting against the heat shield between the CAT converter and the transmission. As it turns out, the heat shield burned a very tiny pinhole in the GMLAN network communication cable.

With the Denali in motion, the air movement under the car would jiggle the GMLAN cable, causing it to ground against the heat shield, causing intermittent communication loss. This accounted for all the error codes and unrelated electrical problems.

So the result of broken data stream to the Body Control Module would cause the control module to react by posting error codes, or by shifting the transmission into 'Limp Home', or by cycling the locks.. At this point with respect to the BCM, Garbage In, Garbage Out.

The repair was easy. I rewrapped the GMLAN wires individually (did not cut them for repair) and then wrapped them all with a heat protective cover.

Not one error code since the repair three or more years ago.

Sorry for the lengthy explanation.

Best of luck with your repair.

 

Thank you for the elaborate write-up. Silly question here, but does my 2015 Stingray have a GMLAN cable/wire and if so, do you happen to know where it might be so I can inspect it? Also - do you think that due to the fact that the car itself still performs without issue that it might be more of a bad batter symptom than wires grounding?

Was so strange that my right front blinker stopped working and my rear left tailight went out, so did the rear camera etc.. I'm really, REALLY hoping its just the battery. I haven't had the car very long

 

Any chance the car has been in a flood ?

 

Had an alternator die on the interstate, in a Chevy Cavalier, that had similar electrical symptoms. All sorts of indicator lights went crazy and some electronics did not work properly, ran for a bit, then more crazy light and then all came to a stop. Tow and a new alternator, 2h, and back on the road. Maybe your alternator is on the way out?

 

Update:

Tested the battery load and everything looked solid. From there I started tracing down, looking for connections to the Chassis control module. You wouldn't believe it but I was very carefully applying pressure, wiggling these wires and found that this particular wire had a poor connection and a slightly loose connection to this fuse. When I moved it horizontally all the lights that were off came back on and all the system warnings were no longer existent. I removed the negative battery terminal and protected it from a connection and re-torqued every positive terminal connection in this picture. Some were almost a 3/4 turn loose until light "hand" torque was met. I can see that the location of the battery is in a prime position to receive a lot of vibration which supports my hypothesis here. I believe very strongly that this issue was caused by a faulty connection to this adapter. I'm crossing my fingers that this is the resolution to this. I took her our twice yesterday and tested over some less than smooth roads (trying to recreate the problem) and she's been running perfectly ever since.




If it re-surfaces, I will update everyone in case someone out there is experiencing the same.