Ceramic coating? We all know that a Ceramic coating will make our cars literally look brand new, super shiny and offer a ton of protection...but to have it done professionally could cost $1000 to $1500. Well, there's a better answer. I'm a huge fan of Adam's Polishes products and they offer a product called Graphene Ceramic Coating Advanced. One major advantage of Adam's is that his ceramic products have UV properties that can be seen with a UV light (included in the kit). This makes it worth every penny because you can see areas you might have missed applying the coating (which you will do - guaranteed).

Now let me be upfront - the paint correction steps MUST be done before applying this Ceramic coating. You MUST remove as many of the imperfections in your paint as possible otherwise this Ceramic coating will only exaggerate those imperfections even more. Let me also say, that its time consuming. I worked on my Vette over a 3 day period - several hours each day. So if you're not willing to put the time into compounding, polishing, and surface prepping - than this Ceramic product is not for you.

STEP #1: Wash & Clay - Of course before starting any work on your paint, the car needs to be fully washed. I suggest using a power washer and a foam cannon. It cleans the car while reducing the amount of surface scratching. Once clean - you MUST remove all the surface contaminants in your paint. Even if your paint "looks" great - if you rub your hand over the paint and you can "hear" your hand moving...then it needs to be clayed.

STEP #2: Compound - To get your clear coat to look new, you must remove the top layers of scratches, swirls and haze we all have on cars. FYI - Car washes cause more damage to your clear coat than driving in snow and rain. I use Adam's Compound (its blue) and works great on all surfaces. I strongly suggest you invest in a DA Polisher - you can get a really good one for $100 at any Harbor Freight. They also sell pads. They offer Course (for removing alot of swirls and scratches), Medium (for normal wear), Fine (for lite wear) and Finishing (for waxes and polishes). For 90% of you, I would get a Medium pad and a Polishing Pad unless you know your paint is really bad. Apply (4) dime-size drops on the Medium pad, set your polisher to #4 speed and SLOWLY move up & down then side to side 3 to 4 times. Let the polisher do the work - not alot of downward pressure on the polisher. Work on a 3ft by 3ft square - then move to the next section, put (4) more drops on the pad and continue. Make sure you use a plush/soft microfiber towel to remove the compound.

STEP #3: Polish - When you use Compound on your paint, it actually uses an abrasive liquid that basically (safely) "sands" your clear coat. So to now get back the ultimate shine, you need to polish your paint. I use Adam's Polish (its white) and you would now use a Polish pad. Again, (4) dime-size drop on the pad - working in the same pattern but you don't have to go as slow with polish (but don't rush it either). Working a 3ft x 3ft section, then wiping off with a plush/soft microfiber towel.

STEP #4: Surface Prep - You've done all this work to get your paint ready for the Ceramic coating, but don't forget...you have left behind alot of dust and finger prints or elbow impressions. You need to remove them or you will ceramic over them and will be seen. I use Adam's Surface Prep - its actually distilled water and rubbing alcohol. This will remove any grease, finger prints, etc.

STEP #5: Ceramic Coating - Ok believe or not - this is the easy step in this entire process but you have to take your time. To apply, you allow several drops of the Ceramic to fall into a suede block applicator (included in the kit) and work a 3f x 3ft section. Wipe the Ceramic coating around the section (almost making a border) and then wipe inside that border - this will ensure you don't miss any section. You will notice that the ceramic coating will start to "rainbow". That means the ceramic is bonding with your paint. When you notice the "rainbow" starting to fade, its time to wipe that section with suede utility towel (included in the kit) to level the ceramic and then use the plush buffing towel (included in the kit) to buff the area to an amazing shine. It will require several wipes to get all the ceramic off - take your time because you don't want to leave any behind. Make sure you work on one section of the car at a time (from start to finish). In other words, work on the hood first and don't work on any other section until the hood is complete finished (ceramic coated and wiped down).

Here is a link to the kit (don't forget to use whatever coupon code they are offering - it changes often): https://adamspolishes.com/collection...39450748092513

Hopefully this helps you with getting your car to look amazing - below are pictures of the final result - you be the judge if you think ceramic coating is something you want to do.

 

Thanks for this write up. I just finished painting of my other cars last Saturday and I need to buff and polish the paint.

 

Looks stunning !!

 

Looks great, but I must say, given those steps, $1000 to $1500 seems like a bargain to me. Maybe I'm just getting lazy in my old age.

 

 

Thanks for describing the process. I have to say your car looks great.

 

I'd rec good pads, a good polisher, they're good investments.

I used Lake Country pads, the Orange was barely needed on my 19, so after a test panel I went solely to the White. Car had about 500 mi on it so it hadn't seen much yet, however they clay already pulled out quite a bit. I used Jescar polishes, then Kamikaze coatings.

 

Looks great! I just use C2v3 every 3 months or so over my PPF. The paint looks likes like liquid and water beads off really well.

 

Looks great! I just use C2v3 every 3 months or so over my PPF. The paint looks likes like liquid and water beads off really well.

 

Interesting thread as I'm debating going with the ceramic coating.

I just bought the car and it has swirl marks and I'm guess hasn't had much TLC by the way of detailing.

But yeah, price is a bit steep I might just polish and clay bar first and see how it goes.

 

Great writeup and as an Adams used for the past 15 or so year's I agree that his products are top line. I do have one comment, and this is only me, but I stay away from the compound and use the Correction polish or just the One Step polish. If the paint finish is really in bad shape with heavy swirling and scratches, then I would go with the compound. Also, while I swear by the Graphene Advance ceramic I would advise to stay away on a light-colored car. My last car was a 2007 Monterey Red Metallic and it was great on that color, but I just picked up a 2015 Velocity Yellow and after doing a complete paint correction when I applied the ceramic spray coating, I could not see the rainbow effect and it was hard to tell where I applied it even with the UV light. I ended up going back to the old tried and true method of a good coat of glaze followed by a coat of the Adams Patriot wax.

2007 Ceramic Coated


2015 Waxed

 

No Ceramic coating Needed !!!