Clutch vibration
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 884
Likes: 256
From: Atlanta, GA
Clutch vibration
Hello
I have 19 GS M7 with 17500 miles and off late noticing some vibration/ shuddering from stop in 1st gear and goes away if i give more gas. What could be the root cause/ fix and is that normal
BTW i love that clutch very precise and the best i have experienced in all the manuals i have owned.
Thanks
I have 19 GS M7 with 17500 miles and off late noticing some vibration/ shuddering from stop in 1st gear and goes away if i give more gas. What could be the root cause/ fix and is that normal
BTW i love that clutch very precise and the best i have experienced in all the manuals i have owned.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 884
Likes: 256
From: Atlanta, GA
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 119
Likes: 44
Mine will shudder sometimes as well if I ride it. However, if I get out of the clutch quickly/normally it is okay. If yours is doing this regardless of how you disengage the clutch, I would surmise that there might be some wear on the clutch surface causing this. In which case, I think might be worth looking into replacing the clutch.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 884
Likes: 256
From: Atlanta, GA
Mine will shudder sometimes as well if I ride it. However, if I get out of the clutch quickly/normally it is okay. If yours is doing this regardless of how you disengage the clutch, I would surmise that there might be some wear on the clutch surface causing this. In which case, I think might be worth looking into replacing the clutch.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 1,202
Likes: 569
From: MSP
Shuddering is caused by the clutch slipping irregularly -- half a rotation of grip, half a rotation of 3/4 as much grip, repeat as it spins and you get a fun shaking feeling. Revving it more shortens the cycle between the grip and less-grip, which reduces/eliminates the shuddering effect (along with some other fun physics reasons).
Shuddering like this is most often caused by glazing, which is a result of excessive slipping such as on-power shifting or hard launching from a stop -- also commonly referred to as "abuse." It can be caused by external contamination, such as oil from your rear main seal. The large inspection ports on the bottom of the bell housing could in theory allow oils from the road surface to get up in there, but unless you were in a flood, this isn't your cause.
If you've lightly glazed your clutch, driving it normally and correctly for a few miles should clear it up. If it's happening on every gentle start from 0mph, then as with above, you might need to get it checked out.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 884
Likes: 256
From: Atlanta, GA
"it wasn't happening before now" does not rule out user error.
Shuddering is caused by the clutch slipping irregularly -- half a rotation of grip, half a rotation of 3/4 as much grip, repeat as it spins and you get a fun shaking feeling. Revving it more shortens the cycle between the grip and less-grip, which reduces/eliminates the shuddering effect (along with some other fun physics reasons).
Shuddering like this is most often caused by glazing, which is a result of excessive slipping such as on-power shifting or hard launching from a stop -- also commonly referred to as "abuse." It can be caused by external contamination, such as oil from your rear main seal. The large inspection ports on the bottom of the bell housing could in theory allow oils from the road surface to get up in there, but unless you were in a flood, this isn't your cause.
If you've lightly glazed your clutch, driving it normally and correctly for a few miles should clear it up. If it's happening on every gentle start from 0mph, then as with above, you might need to get it checked out.
Shuddering is caused by the clutch slipping irregularly -- half a rotation of grip, half a rotation of 3/4 as much grip, repeat as it spins and you get a fun shaking feeling. Revving it more shortens the cycle between the grip and less-grip, which reduces/eliminates the shuddering effect (along with some other fun physics reasons).
Shuddering like this is most often caused by glazing, which is a result of excessive slipping such as on-power shifting or hard launching from a stop -- also commonly referred to as "abuse." It can be caused by external contamination, such as oil from your rear main seal. The large inspection ports on the bottom of the bell housing could in theory allow oils from the road surface to get up in there, but unless you were in a flood, this isn't your cause.
If you've lightly glazed your clutch, driving it normally and correctly for a few miles should clear it up. If it's happening on every gentle start from 0mph, then as with above, you might need to get it checked out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 1,202
Likes: 569
From: MSP
Hmm. Sounds like your clutch needs to be bled at the very least, a sudden change like that shouldn't happen. Worst case scenario one or more of the tangs from the pressure plate broke off, but usually that's accompanied with some very worrying noises.
For the clutch bleeding, you can do the quick-and-easy "ranger" method which is a ~90% solution, or you can properly bleed it which is considerably more time consuming. Most people see some positive results with the "ranger" method.
If it's more of a problem with a hot engine, that's classically a rear main seal starting to fail. I'm pretty new to the LT1/LT4 so I'm not sure how these are for RMS failures, but if you're leaving any oil on the ground where you park, check if it's coming from the bell-housing!
For the clutch bleeding, you can do the quick-and-easy "ranger" method which is a ~90% solution, or you can properly bleed it which is considerably more time consuming. Most people see some positive results with the "ranger" method.
If it's more of a problem with a hot engine, that's classically a rear main seal starting to fail. I'm pretty new to the LT1/LT4 so I'm not sure how these are for RMS failures, but if you're leaving any oil on the ground where you park, check if it's coming from the bell-housing!
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