When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello Everyone , I am getting tired of SLAMMING MY HATCHBACK TO GET IT TO LOCK AND CLOSE. There must be AFTERMARKET KIT TO FIX PLEASE SOMEONE LET ME KNOW MY EMAIL IS eugewein@***.net THANK YOU SO MUCH Eugene...
Later years have one my 19 GS does I do not know if one can be retrofitted to your hatch. You can leave a door open and it shuts easily just by pushing the lid down past the pivot points of the struts.
Last edited by Richard Ames; Dec 26, 2022 at 11:45 AM.
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
It would be nice if GM would have put an electric pulldown on the earlier C7s, but it was not to be. I just leave one of the doors open a bit and let the hatch drop - it closes very easily. Then just close the door.
Hello Everyone , I am getting tired of SLAMMING MY HATCHBACK TO GET IT TO LOCK AND CLOSE. There must be AFTERMARKET KIT TO FIX PLEASE SOMEONE LET ME KNOW MY EMAIL IS eugewein@***.net THANK YOU SO MUCH Eugene...
2015 owner myself; I hear ya. But everything else about the car is perfect - PERFECT; so you'll adjust and learn to live with and enjoy it.
There was one forum member that looked deeply into this and I believe it requires major work. The problem is that the warning light for the '14 and '15 model years comes out of the BCM (Body Control Module) while on the later years it is put on the CAN Bus and the dash picks it up from there. So that would be disabled if you converted.
If I remember correctly you would need the new latch bracket, latch, wiring harness and the module that controls the latch, which I forget what it is called. And they you would need some harness to drive that module. I believe @Jeff V. gave up on it. He has some threads on this subject which I am unable to find.
If this is your main issue with the Vette, you are quite fortunate. Just leave an air-opening as suggested and be glad you aren't having any of the well documented "real problems."
There used to be a product called "Window Valet" that plugs into the OBDII port that would lower your windows a bit with a specific sequence of key fob button presses. It makes the hatch easier to close.
If I recall correctly, the Window Valet is for model years 2014 -2017 only.
OP this is easily accomplished, it requires major work and reprogramming of the BCM module which is where you will get stuck as GM wont allow the BCM to be reprogrammed with a firmware other than the VIN was programmed for originally.
Hello Everyone , I am getting tired of SLAMMING MY HATCHBACK TO GET IT TO LOCK AND CLOSE. There must be AFTERMARKET KIT TO FIX PLEASE SOMEONE LET ME KNOW MY EMAIL IS eugewein@***.net THANK YOU SO MUCH Eugene...
For two years was my often posted compliant for my September 2013 delivered 2014 Z51. Would get flak from some members who had no issues.
I investigated and found a workaround I used for 3 1/2 years. First the GM toted Magic Memory Wire vent that was supposed to solve what I called the power of small pressure differentials on large areas (hatch) was not big enough IF you had a tight fitting C7. Ah yes happiness is a tight cabin!
Now worse for some, pressing on the center near the latch cause paint cracking. Since materials are my business when I saw the lower hatch frame bend when I pushed I stopped. At Museum Delivery folks were told NOT to push in the center as there were reports of paint cracking. Composites like steel can fatigue with continue high loads and i recall two posters had the lower hatch frame crack! GM replaced free.
My work around was simple. I NEVER tried to close the hatch unless my passenger door was open. Then I could stand by the open door and with one finger push on the side of the open hatch, it closed and latched! Not really a big deal as if bringing groceries I just put them in the hatch, left it open and closed it after I opened the passenger door!
Finally in ~2015 there was a bulletin for dealers that:
Showed now to check that the Magic Memory Wire Vent was working (have to remove the license plate and look.) Mine was.
Discussed adjusting the hatch hasp, which I did no help
Then it said, open both windows 3 inches. They try to latch. If it does TELL CUSTOMER IT'S WORKING AS DESIGNED!
PS. Not sure they did not make the lower hatch thicker when they added the motorized pull down.
OP this is easily accomplished, it requires major work and reprogramming of the BCM module which is where you will get stuck as GM wont allow the BCM to be reprogrammed with a firmware other than the VIN was programmed for originally.
this is the part that I don't understand. While the C7 was being produced I could see GM not allowing reprogramming with options the car didn't have. But its been years since production stopped, you would think they would allow this even on a somewhat limited basis.
^^^
Allow what! This is not a software issue it's a motor assembly, wiring etc. Perhaps a new hatch with a stronger bottom member that does not bend. MUCH simpler to use the workaround I did for 3 1/2 years. NEVER CLOSE THE HATCH UNLESS PASSNGER DOOR IS OPEN. Then standing next to an open door with one finger could close the open hatch and it latched. The power of small pressure differences on a large area- the hatch!
This is the Magic Memory Wire activated vent visible behind the license plate (there is an access hole.) Vent just not big enough for many cars. Worked for some.
Pic of my C8 motorized pull down that failed and had to be replaced.
First the GM toted Magic Memory Wire vent that was supposed to solve what I called the power of small pressure differentials on large areas (hatch) was not big enough IF you had a tight fitting C7. Ah yes happiness is a tight cabin!
...
My work around was simple. I NEVER tried to close the hatch unless my passenger door was open. Then I could stand by the open door and with one finger push on the side of the open hatch, it closed and latched! Not really a big deal as if bringing groceries I just put them in the hatch, left it open and closed it after I opened the passenger door!
Your entire post was excellent, containing the type of technical expertise I came here to learn. I did not know about that magic wire, bending hatch and cracking paint. When I get it out of storage I'll check that vent and close the hatch just like you do. Kudos!
[QUOTE=JerryU;1606072175]^^^
Allow what! This is not a software issue it's a motor assembly, wiring etc. Perhaps a new hatch with a stronger bottom member that does not bend. MUCH simpler to use the workaround I did for 3 1/2 years. NEVER CLOSE THE HATCH UNLESS PASSNGER DOOR IS OPEN. Then standing next to an open door with one finger could close the open hatch and it latched. The power of small pressure differences on a large area- the hatch!
This is the Magic Memory Wire activated vent visible behind the license plate (there is an access hole.) Vent just not big enough for many cars. Worked for some.
first off, as noted, that is NOT the "magic wire". secondly, I realize it is more than a software issue. you can buy the parts and install them but it would be no good without reprogramming the BCM to make it work. And yes simply opening the door and shutting the lid is how you make it work. Some of us like to tinker and mod our cars with later options that are a convenience and this would surely be one.
Your entire post was excellent, containing the type of technical expertise I came here to learn. I did not know about that magic wire, bending hatch and cracking paint. When I get it out of storage I'll check that vent and close the hatch just like you do. Kudos!
The Memory Wire Activated Vent (wherever it was) was highly touted as a great technology and weight savings. Turned out the motorized pulldown (that worked fine in my C6 and GM reverted bock to in 2016) only added 2 lbs!
The other foolish thing the early C7 had was the optional setting that positioned the seat "automatically" back to the driver's memorized position when you opened the door to get back in. Right before your eyes it moved BEFORE you had a chance to get in. It was like the Invisible Man was driving. And the other option unlike my C6 where a simple momentary touch of memory #1 button the seat moved forward to my driving position you had to hold the button until it was fully where it was programmed. And for us manual shift folks you had to have the clutch disengaged to start. If you didn't select that "Automatic Option" you had to:
Start like an airplane, using a check list:
First had to hold in the number 1 button while the seat moved fully forward
You had to reach the clutch to disengage before you could start the car
If you held the button, as would be normal with your right hand, it was not free to buckle the seat belt until the seat was fully forward.
As my DD it was a PIA. I learned a two handed approach.
Held the #1 button with my left hand, pulled the seat belt over and buckled with my right as the seat was moving forward, pressed the clutch and just pressed start once!
Here are two pics I would post:
Accused GM of outsourcing the software (which was fine in my C6 like the hatch was fine) to someone who never drove a car!
I referred to the "automatic seat position" option as soon as the door opened to get back in, as the "Superman Option." Had to be faster than a speeding bullet to use! Finally fixed with the hatch pull down and eliminated the Superman option in 2016 but for manual cars had to push the start button twice!
It would be nice if GM would have put an electric pulldown on the earlier C7s, but it was not to be. I just leave one of the doors open a bit and let the hatch drop - it closes very easily. Then just close the door.
I do this as well. I would like the pulldown but it isn't feasible to back-fit it into my 2015 so I leave the driver's door open.