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I am probably opening myself up to a lot of different opinions, but thats exactly what I want...so here goes...
I just recently installed an A&A Supercharger along with long tube headers and a JMS Fuel Pump Voltage booster on my 2017 Stingray LT1. I have been told that the LT1 internals are not that great and longevity of this engine with a supercharger is not real good once you get to the 650-700 HP range. On the dyno, She is putting 615 HP to the rear wheels and that has me somewhat concerned about the longevity of my engine. So, if anyone out there has upgraded their LT1 due to boosting their engine or any of you experienced mechs in the know...what did you have done or what would you recommend and what is a ballpark figure I can estimate on parts. Labor is subjective to the area you live and who you get to do the work. I'm just looking for a list of parts that I should consider for my LT1 and what name brand did you go with? I would much rather do this now verses after catastrophic failure. Thanks in advance!
Dale
All 6.2L LT engines — LT1, LT2, LT4, LT5, L86, and L87 — use a premium forged steel crankshaft, as does the recently launched 6.6L L8T heavy-duty truck engine. All LT engines have a 3.62-inch stroke, except the L8T, which has a 3.89-inch stroke.
The pistons are forged aluminum on the LT4 and LT5. All others are hypereutectic aluminum alloy.
The LT1 and its Gen V cousins all share the same 6.098-inch forged powdered metal connecting rods that were used in the previous generation GM engines. The center-to-center length is significantly longer than the traditional 5.70-inch small-block Chevy rod with a center-to-center length of 6.098-inches. The pin diameter also differs from the small-block Chevy’s 0.927-inch, now larger at 0.943-inch. All Gen V factory rods use a 9mm rod bolt
The only thing different between your LT1 shortblock and the LT4 shortblock are your pistons. Upgrade those to forged lower compression units and you're on par with the LT4.
Not a good example I am afraid. Mine is 14 Z51 6AT 55k miles. No track driving. Got Edelbrock and got similar HP about 4 years ago. Now my motor is 416CID. Original was blown. Probably mine was the worst case. I don't think you want to get a 416 or whatever to prevent any failure on your LT1.
You are ok with your setup as long as you are not constantly under boost, new pistons would increase the life of your engine but that obviously means tearing the engine apart
You should be fine at your power level. I’m at 800+ whp and went with Lunati H beam rods and Wiseco pistons. Stock cranks have been over 1000hp.
If you’re running stock valve train you might wanna consider cam, lifters, springs and retainers along with the bottom stuff. Those pieces can be just as important to a long life.
You should be fine at your power level. I’m at 800+ whp and went with Lunati H beam rods and Wiseco pistons. Stock cranks have been over 1000hp.
If you’re running stock valve train you might wanna consider cam, lifters, springs and retainers along with the bottom stuff. Those pieces can be just as important to a long life.
Why all the go fast stuff if you don't track?? DRAG RACE?
Because I love the thrill of acceleration, and because I can... I'm a 30 year retired Vet and I miss the adrenalin rush of flight, my car satisfies that hunger from time to time. Other than that, the look on the faces of guys who know they can beat a stock Stingray is priceless when they have to eat crow!
Because I love the thrill of acceleration, and because I can... I'm a 30 year retired Vet and I miss the adrenalin rush of flight, my car satisfies that hunger from time to time. Other than that, the look on the faces of guys who know they can beat a stock Stingray is priceless when they have to eat crow!
^^^^ Now that put a big $hit eating grin on my face !!
Rich