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I have been thinking of doing a track alignment on my C7 GS for the upcoming summer. I drive my car to and from events and put less than 3k miles a year on the car with my longest track commute being 400 miles to WG. I know that putting a track alignment and driving it on the street will reduce the life of the tire but if I put my stock tires on when not on track will the 1k miles to different tracks cause any meaningful reduction in overall life of the tires?
I got 5 days on track with cup2Rs last year and I’m a novice so I’m going back to a dedicated wheel and tire set for tracking using super sports inhopes of getting a about 6 track weekends out of them rather than just 2.
I have been thinking of doing a track alignment on my C7 GS for the upcoming summer. I drive my car to and from events and put less than 3k miles a year on the car with my longest track commute being 400 miles to WG. I know that putting a track alignment and driving it on the street will reduce the life of the tire but if I put my stock tires on when not on track will the 1k miles to different tracks cause any meaningful reduction in overall life of the tires?
I got 5 days on track with cup2Rs last year and I’m a novice so I’m going back to a dedicated wheel and tire set for tracking using super sports inhopes of getting a about 6 track weekends out of them rather than just 2.
thanks for the help!
Unless you just go stupid crazy with the alignment.....like -3* camber up front sort of thing....you're not going to notice an appreciable difference.
Keep the toe as close to zero as possible. I have the OM-recommended track alignment on my car and drive on the street. Street tire wear seems acceptable, however, I never put more than 30 to 40 miles on the tires in one trip. When you are on a 400-mile trip the edges of the tires will get a lot hotter and more than likely wear faster.
I am where you are. Been autocrossing my Stingray since 2020. My previous car I ran 3.0+ camber front and 2+ rear. I ran the cheapest tire I could find on the street and yep the inside of the fronts wore quicker. But I got 5 years or so out of them so not to worry. My Stingray I kept adding more camber 2020, 2021. Finally in 2022 went to 3.2 in the front. I know I will lose tire life, but the dramatic improvement in mid turn cornering was substantial. I built a set of ramps for the garage so it is easier to do alignments. My plan was to back off the camber Nov to April. But I didn't drive the car much, and it is all local drives so by Jan I figured no use changing camber and then changing it back. My next set of street tires I am going to look for non-directional and non-asymetric tread so I can flip them when the inside gets thin.
On my GS, I drive to HPDEs as well. My front camber was 2.4* but after 4 track days the cords started showing on the inside thread. So I have backed camber to 2* and am getting a few more days out of the tires. I don't know how much impact driving to the events has caused the tires to wear (I don't drive on street much avg 4K miles per year). When I had stock camber setting (1*?) I was wearing the outside thread of the tires. So on my car with my driving skills (Intermediate) *2 degrees seems perfect for track as far as tire wear goes.
I've read a few places that the track alignment is a relatively minimal improvement that an amateur wont make much out of. I've only been to two track days so far in my Z06, so I'm staying on street alignment. I think the value of possible track alignment is going to grow as your experience grows, so take that in to account.
sounds like 2* of camber isn’t that bad if I keep the tow down which is what the track alignment calls for at .05 mm which is less than the street setup as Bills previous post shows.
sounds like 2* of camber isn’t that bad if I keep the tow down which is what the track alignment calls for at .05 mm which is less than the street setup as Bills previous post shows.
With a GS I’m guessing I have the FE6 setup. How big a difference is 1.1* vs 2*?
Any idea why the camber is different from left to right up front on stock settings?
1.1* vs 2* is a huge difference. Easily noticeable and if you're remotely pushing the car you'll really chew up the outside edges of the tires at -1.1* I'll guess typo regarding L/R settings being different or GM trying to account for where weight (including the driver) resides.
Originally Posted by ShadyVette
I had been thinking of getting a dsc controller. Is it worth getting?
Does the dsc alignment work with the stock controller?
the spec has less camber and more toe. If I use the dsc spec with stock MRC controller will it work?
Does adding toe in offset camber and reduce tire wear?
im a total dunce with alignment, sorry for the dumb questions.
(can you tell the 3/36 is over? Haha)
I have the DSC controller although I use my own alignment specs. DSC was more for compression control under breaking. There was one area in particular that regardless of alignment settings, braking from 140mph to 30mph for a 90* left-hander was a handful. The DSC programming did a great job of addressing that. Some love it, some hate it. For me it works so it's still installed
"I'll guess typo regarding L/R settings being different or GM trying to account for where weight (including the driver) resides."
I've been told that it's to (approximately) compensate for road camber, so the car won't pull to the right on most roads.
No way for me to verify that.