2014 corvette no headlights.Both fuses are good and relay is good.Hard to believe both bulbs are bad.Any ideals.

 

If they are original to your 2014, it may be time to change them.

 

There is a "very, very, very short" video out there that shows an easier way to get to the bulbs. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Mxpw9...?feature=share I think it's enough to figure this process out!

 

Not sure if this will work on a C7, but when I had a headlight go out on my Altima, I was shocked at the official procedure for replacement. What I did was turn the front wheels to give me some room, pulled the attachment pins on the front wheelwell liner (just the few on the side closest to the front of the car) and reached in to get to the bulb. Done in five minutes....

 

That video says to cut holes in the car. Just do it right and take off the bumper. It's really not too hard. The original set lasted 9 years, so it's not something that has to be done often.

 

It sure seems odd that both would go out at the same time. It's like winning the lottery. I know when I had one of mine replaced a while back the tech said something like one fuse for both ballasts? Before doing anything find out if there is more to it than checking than what you did. It was expensive to change out my bulb at the dealer, but I'm not a mechanic by any means. It cost me $400 to get the bulbs changed out. I did both since they had to disassemble so much. I bought the OEM bulbs myself for them to install. My dealership let's me bring my own parts.

 

I agree it seems very odd that both bulbs would fail at the same time. That means two failures occurred at the same time and that is highly improbable. There are other things that need to be checked before going to all of the work to replace the bulbs and then find out you didn't accomplish anything except to spend money.

Common items that can affect both headlights are the Multifunction light switch, the BCM and the wiring going to the relay along with the relay socket. You should use a diagnostic scanner that can read body codes (Not an OBD2 only scanner) and check for one of these DTCs: B258A01 or B258A04.






Bill

 

There are holes for access to many things all over the car. I would make a clean access hole and devise a proper, professional looking way to close things up while allowing future access... I plan on keeping this car for a long time...

 

Both headlights out at the same time does not sound like bulbs. Anything is possible, but before you take the nose off, try this, remove the headlight relay from the front fuse box and check for +12 Volts at the fuse box socket, it should be present at two locations, the ones that correspond to pins 30 and 86 on the relay. If it is, the next step is to check and see if the lights work, with the car off, using a 14-gauge jumper, connect the pins that correspond to pins 30 and 87 together. The headlights will come on if they are good. Just be sure that you do not jumper to socket location 85. If the lights came on, you either have a bad relay, broken wire from the BCM to the relay, or a bad BCM. If you do not have a diagnostic scanner, there are a few simple checks that can still be performed:

The relay can be checked by substituting a known-good relay (the coil can be checked with a DVM). As for the BCM and wiring, a 220 Ohm 1 Watt resistor and a DVM can be used to check this. On my car (2014) the headlight relay is #60 in the engine compartment fuse block. Remove the relay and install the resistor in the relay socket, in the pins that correspond to pins 85 and 86. (make sure that before you remove the relay you note how it is installed). Start the car and be sure that the headlights are commanded off (flip the light control to off). Using the DVM, you should have battery voltage (12.8-15) volts on both sides of the resistor. Now go in and turn the light control fully on to force the headlights on. Now check the resistor, one side (pin 86) should be battery voltage and the other side (pin 85) should be less than one volt. If pin 86 is not battery voltage, there is a problem with the fuse block (if the previous test passed). If pin 85 is still at battery voltage, the relay is not bad, but there is either a broken wire between the BCM and the fuse box, or the BCM is bad.

Note that if the BCM is “bad”, there are a few more items to check, first, can you control the running lights with the light switch (turn the running lights on and off). This at least shows that there is some control using the light switch and the BCM is at least responding to this. Also, if the headlights can be forced on by the light switch, but they do not come on by themselves when dark, this points to a problem with the ambient light sensor, BCM and/or the wiring between the light sensor and the BCM. If the headlights do not come on when attempting to force them on (and the resistor check in the fuse box also failed), then the BCM and associated wiring will need to be tested.

Don’t’ forget to set the light switch back to the Auto position, twist it to the OFF position and release, this way the lights are off and your battery does not run down.

 

I'm guessing that both the low and high beams are out? It would seem not to be a headlight issue if low and high are both out.

 

C7 is a one bulb system with a shutter system that moves up and down accordingly for high/low beam operation. I recall that's how it works...

 

That's why I like this forum. Folks take the time to educate and not trash folks that don't know any better.

Thanks again!

 

Unless you ask about motor oil

 

I wouldn't do that. I have had my car for 7.5 years and had one headlight module replaced under the GMEPP warranty. They are expensive (over $1000 for the discounted part), Cutting a hole in the top front of the fender is a good way to get water intrusion into the back side of the light and ruin it. The wheel well liner doesn't come close to sealing the wheel well from the backside of the fender so it may or may not stop the water that is being thrown off the front wheel. Besides you won't know where exactly to cut a hole until you take the module out the first time. Why cob up the car when removing the front fascia isn't that bad?

Bill

 

I agree, and we have to wonder why GM would put a hole there, but not make it big enough to remove/replace the bulb,
Yeah, lets take off the Front Bumper instead

 

I actually like the front end design of the C7 the way the headlights look. With a drill gun you can remove the front cover in less than an hour. It's not that bad. I would never butcher a hole in my Corvette.

 

I wouldn't want to ruin something on mine either
But unless all C7's are not built the same, there is already a fairly large hole there from the Factory.
Why it's not big enough to remove the bulb is any ones guess, except to make some of us have to pay a Dealer to do it.
But since there's already a hole there from the Factory, apparently it's not an issue with water.
Keep in mind the Headlight itself is a Sealed unit once a bulb is in place.
Nobody is destroying anything, if they have the skill to make the existing hole "slightly" bigger to allow removal/replacement of the bulb.
Just my opinion for what it's worth