Climate control problem?
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 14
Likes: 6
From: NC and WV, U.S.A.
Climate control problem?
This is my first summer with my ‘19 Stingray that I got in February. I love the car, but in the hot summer months in NC the A/C seems anemic. The fan blows harder and harder, but it still gets progressively warmer in the cabin and I keep turning the temperature down to stay cool, sometimes down to 64 (F). Is it normal to need a re-charge at only 4 years and 16k miles?
(I had the windows tinted the maximum allowed.)
TIA
(I had the windows tinted the maximum allowed.)
TIA
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From: Ventura Co Ca
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St. Jude Donor '13, '20-'21
It is not normal, but, it can happen. I went to Vegas last August 31, through Death Valley, in my Roadster, and was very comfortable. The outside temperature was the only way I knew how hot it was.
You could have a leak or a bad sensor. My, 95, had the valve that you recharge the Freon go out, and discharge the whole system. In another car, I had a $26 part that went out as I was entering Death Valley, not fun!
I would take it to a well regarded A/C Shop and have it checked out, before you do anything else.
You could have a leak or a bad sensor. My, 95, had the valve that you recharge the Freon go out, and discharge the whole system. In another car, I had a $26 part that went out as I was entering Death Valley, not fun!
I would take it to a well regarded A/C Shop and have it checked out, before you do anything else.
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Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 14
Likes: 6
From: NC and WV, U.S.A.
Thanks, this is super helpful. I just ordered an automotive vent thermometer from Amazon for $9. This will tell me if I really have a problem, or it’s just old age and NC summers.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Temps here in the Phoenix area were in the high teens today and I had no problem with the AC holding the inside at 78-80, since I'm not a fan of colder temps. So a 40 degree differential should be no problem for anywhere in the Country.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: St. Louis Metro East IL
Phoenix has extremely low humidity which helps A/C performance. An A/C system must condense excess humidity before it can cool the air. Air exiting the same A/C system operating in Phoenix at 100 F and 5% humidity will be cooler than the same system operating in St. Louis at 100 F and 95% humidity... Air exiting the evaporator coil is at 100% humidity at the exit temp.
So, don't expect 40 degree F differential in all locations. The service manual chart shows acceptable performance based on ambient temp and humidity. See attached:
Ron
So, don't expect 40 degree F differential in all locations. The service manual chart shows acceptable performance based on ambient temp and humidity. See attached:
Ron
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From: Home of the VOLS ! Knoxville, TN. Tennessee
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '15, '16-'17-'18-'19
I had this problem with my SUV few days ago.
Fan would stay on high with marginal cooling. Air was warmer at idle speed than it was while car was in motion.
I stopped at Auto Zone and bought a can of Arctic Air with a digital meter. $60 but meter is reusable and refills are cheaper.
Pressure on the low side was 30 with AC running. They said fill until pressure is 43-45. I did and it now works perfect.
I noticed a small leak at the low side valve. The cap slows it down. I am going to take it in for a valve replacement to make the repair permanent.
SUV is a 2014 Durango.
Fan would stay on high with marginal cooling. Air was warmer at idle speed than it was while car was in motion.
I stopped at Auto Zone and bought a can of Arctic Air with a digital meter. $60 but meter is reusable and refills are cheaper.
Pressure on the low side was 30 with AC running. They said fill until pressure is 43-45. I did and it now works perfect.
I noticed a small leak at the low side valve. The cap slows it down. I am going to take it in for a valve replacement to make the repair permanent.
SUV is a 2014 Durango.
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No, it should not be normal for the A/C to need a recharge so soon. The A/C in my 2014 blows very cold air and has never had any problems cooling the car down even in 100* heat.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Phoenix has extremely low humidity which helps A/C performance. An A/C system must condense excess humidity before it can cool the air. Air exiting the same A/C system operating in Phoenix at 100 F and 5% humidity will be cooler than the same system operating in St. Louis at 100 F and 95% humidity... Air exiting the evaporator coil is at 100% humidity at the exit temp.
So, don't expect 40 degree F differential in all locations. The service manual chart shows acceptable performance based on ambient temp and humidity. See attached:
Ron
So, don't expect 40 degree F differential in all locations. The service manual chart shows acceptable performance based on ambient temp and humidity. See attached:
Ron
The current 18 day long string of 110+ days has also included 15 - 20% humidity, which is unusual.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 3,905
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From: Northeast
A/C Fact: The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) designed the A/C fittings that are on your vehicle. These fittings have a SAE acceptable leakage rate of 1/4 ounce of refrigerant per year per fitting. That does not sound like a lot, but the average vehicle has 8 fittings. This means that you are losing 2 ounces of refrigerant per year. It is recommended that you service your air conditioning every 2 years. This will ensure that your compressor is never “starving” for oil. The older vehicles used to have systems that held upwards of 36 ounces of refrigerant. Today’s vehicles have much smaller systems that require as little as 15 ounces of refrigerant. The need to service your air conditioning has become much more important with these reduced capacities or system damage will occur.