what mobil 1 weight engine oil would be recomended for a 2014 6.2 with 112k miles. all seems good

 

Redline or Motul 300V in xxW40.
Mobil 1 has no more ester.

 

Why not just continue to use the factory recommended weight . ?
Dave

 

Just stay with 5W30 or upgrade to 0W40 that newer vettes have gone to as factory fill.

 

"...with 112k miles. all seems good" So, why would you want to change what has worked for almost a decade?

 

Exactly. People get way too wrapped up when a new oil comes out, thinking it's really going to make a difference if they change. I agree, just continue what you have been using. I guarentee, that if you change, you won't notice a nickels worth of difference.

 

GM approves Mobil 1 Dexos II 5W30 and 0W40 Supercar oils.

 

When I was still working (prior to 2010), ester based oils like Redline and presumably Motul had serious problems with gasket and seal leakage which would be a big problem for a high mileage engine. That said, I have been retired since 2010 and do not have access to actual engine testing results since then to know whether they have solved that problem.

Mobil 1 was never ester-based. In the early years it was pure PAO (poly alpha olefin). Since the BP/Castrol lawsuit in the late 1990’s, severely hydrocracked dino oil was allowed to be called a full synthetic. Since it is much cheaper to make, almost all full synthetics (including Mobil 1) are now blends of PAO and hydrocracked dino oil. The only exceptions I know of are the few ester-based oils like Redline and Motul, and Shell’s natural gas-based synthetic marketed mostly as Pennzoil Platinum.

As others have said, why make a change from what has allowed the car to go 100,000+ miles? I’d stick with the 5W30 full synthetic of the brand of your choosing (but would not go ester-based unless I was convinced the gasket/seal issue had been solved).

 

I would continue to use Mobil 1 5W30 or an equivalent brand of oil.

 

Great thank's for this very instructive and clear post (I now know that M1 was a pure PAO and no ester based). So i will consider for my next OCs (except for the LS7 which really need ester imao) the Shell stuff made with natural gas which is a pure PAO. It's here about 40€ for 5 liters (supermarket price).
About seal/gasket i have to say that every old "from tube paste seal" (more than 15 years in use) have been destroyed by ester based oils. No problem however with any after 2005 factory crafted gasket or recently applied pastes.

 

The Shell/Pennzoil lubes are not PAO’s, they are Fischer-Tropsch liquids, which come from an entirely different process. However, the end result of the two processes is similar, namely highly branched, long chain isoparaffins which make very high quality lube base stocks. The slight advantage of both PAO’s and Fischer-Tropsch liquids over the group 3 full synthetics made by severe hydrocracking of dino oil is that the group 3 materials still contain small amounts of naphthenes (ring structures), which are lower quality as lubes than the isoparaffins (branched chain structures).

A genuine explanation of PAO versus Fischer-Tropsch is beyond the scope of this post, but one sentence descriptions follow. In the PAO route, you start with ethylene, polymerize that to make alpha olefins, use a different catalyst to polymerize the alpha olefins into PAO’s, then hydrotreat the PAO’s to make the finished long chain isoparaffins. In Fischer-Tropsch, you gasify natural gas into syngas (carbon monoxide plus hydrogen), then use the Fischer-Tropsch reaction to generate long chain paraffins which don’t have much chain branching, then isomerize the Fischer-Tropsch product into the finished long chain isoparaffins.

One could debate the small quality differences between PAO and Fischer-Tropsch isoparaffins, but both are clearly at least a bit better as lube base stocks than the hydrocracked dino oil synthetics due to absence of naphthenes. However, the Shell/Pennzoil base oil is pure Fischer-Tropsch, where as far as I know, there are no longer any pure PAO’s on the market (all are blends of PAO and hydrocracked dino oil which because of the hydrocracked dino oil, have small amounts of naphthenes). That said, motor oil is a mix of base oil and additives, so since the disadvantage of the hydrocracked dino oil is very small, one can certainly not conclude that the Shell/Pennzoil lubes are best of the best. A better additive package could easily overcome the very small disadvantage of a few naphthenes coming from the hydrocracked dino oil in the others.

 

Genius !

 

LDB is our Resident Motor Lube Oil Expert and his knowledge and experience in the industry shared with us from time to time is always deeply appreciated!!!

 

Thanks in return to you and those who thumbs-upped you and/or my posts. Keeping people informed about fuels and lubes keeps me in touch with past career, my past 200,000 miles in three Vettes, and my current 2011 CTSV Caddy-Vette coupe (with MN6). I think that even if the alleged Morgan in my avatar finally gets approved for the US by the Feds, I’ll hang on to the CTSV coupe. It will be my “Reatta plan” car, referring to my Mom who hung on to (and competently drove) her 1991 Reatta for 30 years until her passing in 2020.

 

Outhouse and candle lights worked for how long again? Why change it at all?

 

I hardly think that this statement applies here
Dave

 

The PRINCIPLE is similar. IDK. Next oil change will be with 5W30. I predict next year we will be able to test it and see if there is any real difference. If Blackstone still advises 6000 based on the readings, maybe all it is good for is for those who track it. Don't know YET. It was just changed with the remnants of 0W40. After that, back to 5W30 so we shall see the test results.