Looking for suggestions here (not necessarily advice, as there is a difference).

I have a 2014 C7 Stingray. When I purchased, it was bone stock, including the flaccid FE1 suspension. However, it does have the M7 tranny and NPP exhaust.

I have since upgraded to Z51 shocks and Hotchkis sway bars, so the handling is now where I want it. Also added a Stage 2 splitter and Z06 skirts (with a Stage 2 spoiler in the garage waiting install) so the appearance has been updated, as well.

I’m looking to make a few more upgrades, but not sure which way to go?

I think next on the list is an MGW Short throw shifter. Had one on my C6 and it made a world of difference compared to the mush of the OEM job.

Regarding the motor, I'm not interested in making big HP numbers (but don’t want to lose those that I have!) so this is where I’m seeking input.

Long tube headers/x-pipe/tune, or a drop-in air filter/Soler throttle body (92mm?) x-pipe? I enjoy ‘sound’ but not necessarily loudness (I have removed the fuse for NPP) so not sure if what I’m after is worth the cost of headers and installation? I'd probably seek out a pro to install the headers, but everything else I can do myself.

I had Borla long tubes on the C6 and loved how it sounded, but Borla doesn’t do headers for the C7.

Again, not looking to boost big hp numbers, just some mods that would add to the driving experience.

 

I did Kooks L/T headers, green cats and x pipe. Already had an AFE cold air intake and a Soler ported throttle body. I too have the NPP exhaust. Dyno tuned after install by a local shop up here in Massachusetts. Stingy dyno numbers showed about 430 RWHP (rough estimate is about 520 hp). I think it sounds great in track mode and still very quiet in stealth mode (I used it once leaving my house at 1am for a road trip while my wife was sleeping).

Here's a sample of a cold start (video is more for the taillights but you can hear it at start up)

 

I'd like to stay 'catted' (as BAT is). Not sure on CAI....seems Chevy did a pretty good job with whats already there other than maybe a better flowing filter (Attack Blue or similar). I know l/t headers do a lot for the sound, but seems on the C7 that the x-pipe plays into that pretty big, no?
BAT, your car sounds very nice!

 

look at the eos catted or catless downpipes and eos catless x pipe. about 500$ (all catless) all in makes my z07 bark big time and ads power. as much as long tubes? no. but not anywhere near the insane hassle in installing l/t either.
when it comes to shifters look at the tmod shifter from the forum. half the cost and just a good as a mgw

 

The issue I was finding is that all long tube headers HAD to have their x pipe. Removing the exhaust manifolds also requires you to remove the down pipes. Doing so, a set of L/T will not match up to the OEM x pipe (L/T are longer). You could replace the manifolds with mid length and retain your down pipes (with cats), which will then allow you to keep everything else OEM. If you want long tubes, you'll have to consider cats or catless and an x pipe from the same manufacturer. I initially had an AWE catless x pipe and wanted to addd just L/T headers, but couldn't, they wouldn't match up without cutting.

 

@9sec Downpipes are new to me. They connect onto my OEM headers? Then to the x-pipe?

 

A set of good LT headers, a Soler TB and throttle controller, your shifter and a good tune should make a good difference in your car.

 

I love how my car sounds with the headers. I felt the car was way too quiet form the factory, so IMO longtubes are a must! My car is also cammed and in stealth, it is still very quiet. If you don't want to drop all that coin on a set of longtubes, just get the borla x-pipe that removes the secondary cats. This should give you a little more power as well as a little more sound and it is extremely simple to do on your own. I may have to go with straight pipes soon in the future. In regards to an intake and ported throttle body, save your money. I initially had a Afe intake and it actually looks like the tube is more of a restriction than oem. I ditched that and went to a CPR 5" intake, but I was actually looking for power and flow into a PD blower, so this would probably be overkill for you, but if you really want one definitely go with this unit. It is definitely the best intake to run based on my experience but pricey at around $700. As you are not really looking for power, I would just go with the drop in green filter. I think this outperforms the AFE and other mainstream intakes that many people put on their cars right away. I also think that a tune would be very beneficial to pick up a little power and throttle response. Hope this provides you with more suggestions and isn't necessarily advice. Good luck with whatever you decide to do though!

 

Registered in Conn? Inspected in Conn? Did you visit Slowhawk in MA.? I know MA is tough.Ain't getting away with much,never mind CAT Delete

 

here is mine... when i bought it, it had a little baby cam in it (not sure brand or specs), lg long tubes, corsa extreme, mgw shifter

since then, soler TB, 21st century heads (suspect lingenfelter clones), texas speed vvt-3 cam, borla atak, and e85 which put me at 533 whp (at about 39% ethanol, i might get a couple more hp at higher e content)

 

@Travlee nice sound! You've gone quite a bit farther than what i will be, regarding your engine mods, but it sounds great!

 

I didn't want to dive into the motor, but after I broke a lifter I didn't have a choice. I will say I did e85 conversion before the heads/cam and it was money well spent

 

Yes, I'm in CT. I didn't cat delete, I have the Kooks green cats (high flow).

I did the install and Slowhawk did the tune for me.

I did a catless system on my old C5 when I still lived in MA and didn't have any issues (that was remote tuned by Chuck COW).

 

Glad to say that I live in the land of ethanol-free 91 octane!