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For those running the MGW shifter, are you running the standard short throw shifter or the flat stick short throw shifter?
Maybe dumb question, but what’s the difference?
I am pretty positive that the handle length is the same. The flat handle is just a visual preference for some and doesn't provide any specific performance differences.
I have always used the std. round handle with all my previous Vettes.
Last edited by MacA1979; Apr 11, 2024 at 08:56 AM.
For those running the MGW shifter, are you running the standard short throw shifter or the flat stick short throw shifter?
Maybe dumb question, but what’s the difference?
Not a dumb question at all. The difference is cosmetic.
Originally Posted by mdolandese
Not sure about the mechanics if there’s any difference besides ones flat and ones not (cosmetic) I do know for a fact you can’t use any stock ***** on the flat stick
Originally Posted by MacA1979
I am pretty positive that the handle length is the same. The flat handle is just a visual preference for some and doesn't provide any specific performance differences.
I have always used the std. round handle with all my previous Vettes.
OP: A lot depends on how you hold the shifter. If you hold the shifter like a pistol grip you will constantly miss shifts. The way to shift the Tremec is to put your hand on top of the shifter and use your fingertips and heel of your hand to move the shifter. To get into low gear use your palm to move the shifter to the left and the heel of your hand to push forward, to shift to second (after the transmission warms up) use the palm to pull the shifter left and your fingers to pull it into second. Shift to 3rd using the heel to shove forward with the palm providing a slight pressure to the right (the centering spring will pull the shifter into the 3/4 gate and the heel shoves it into third. Shift into 4th by pulling straight back with the fingertips.
The problem comes when trying to shift into 5th as that shift requires fighting the centering spring and using the palm to shove the shifter to the right and the heel to move it forward. If you don't put enough right-ward pressure on the shifter you will downshift into 3rd, if you get too much you will get 7th instead of 5th. Once in 5th 6th is just a straight pull back with the fingers.
Don't forget the cars have No Lift Shift so you don't have to pull your foot off the throttle when shifting. However, that and the rev limiter won't help if you screw up the 4/5 shift and accidentally hit 3rd at 152 mph because 6400 rpm will only get you to 123 mph in 3rd. I always slow that shift down to try and avoid grenading the engine.
The video illustrating the shift method using heel of hand , fingertips and side pressure was excellent. Practicing that now and seems to work very well. 4 to 5 still doesn't work so well because of the extra 7th gear position. But not so worried about that shift miss. Just have to do that one more carefully.
From my experience with my C5 manual on up, these things are not quick nor smooth shifting. In my opinion, they should reverse-engineer Miata trannies and scale them up.
The video illustrating the shift method using heel of hand , fingertips and side pressure was excellent. Practicing that now and seems to work very well. 4 to 5 still doesn't work so well because of the extra 7th gear position. But not so worried about that shift miss. Just have to do that one more carefully.
Not so much a trick but since I enjoy downshifting, figured I'd share. I found that if you are cruising in 7th and want to downshift into 6th you can just pull down on the shifter and the reverse lockout will pretty much send you over into 6th gear. I was way overthinking that downshift and trying to be super precise since I didn't want to hit 4th. Keeping the shifter to the right with very slight pressure as you pull down from 7th will land you smoothly in 6th - no reverse or 4th gear worries. Give it a shot!
Still getting used to my MGW. It's more precise but also 'stiff' feeling. My biggest issue is 4th to 5th ... having rev match on helps. I need to slow that shift down and think about it more until muscle memory is developed.
Takes significantly more effort to get from 6th to 7th vs. stock - not a big deal since I rarely use that gear.
@BurkeDevlin If you're up to trying it, there is a cheap mod you can do that takes about 20 minutes max with no mess or any fluid loss. If you do it, you'll find one washer makes a noticeable difference and two washers make a huge difference (too much in my opinion). If you find you don't like either, it's easily removed. Here is the video - title says C5 and C6 but it's the exact same for C7:
Noted. Makes sense & seems easy. Gonna take some time to refine my technique per that other video in this thread ... I'm doing it wrong - too much fist, too little palm.
Drove a friend's MGW and it was great. My '19 7M has the worst shifter I've ever experienced, and I've driven sticks almost my whole life; just a rubber sponge and hard to find gears. SMH GM