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Man the quality of the fabrication on these EOS pipes is terrible, I’m definitely not putting these in.
These maybe ok on a street car that doesn’t get pushed to much but these welds will let go quickly on a car that sees any track time…
Man the quality of the fabrication on these EOS pipes is terrible, I’m definitely not putting these in.
These maybe ok on a street car that doesn’t get pushed to much but these welds will let go quickly on a car that sees any track time…
What exactly are you seeing that is a visible quality issue with the welds? I didn't get mine x-rayed but from a visual inspection I saw no cracking or flawed connection points.
What exactly are you seeing that is a visible quality issue with the welds? I didn't get mine x-rayed but from a visual inspection I saw no cracking or flawed connection points.
Almost no penetration of the welds, no inner weld on the inside edge to the flange, 1/16 gap from the straight to the angled tube and the weld didn’t even fill or penetrate the gap…
Its just crap.
But it’s on me for expecting quality at $400 shipped for both pipes….
Almost no penetration of the welds, no inner weld on the inside edge to the flange, 1/16 gap from the straight to the angled tube and the weld didn’t even fill or penetrate the gap…
Its just crap.
But it’s on me for expecting quality at $400 shipped for both pipes….
I will keep this thread updated if they crack or self destruct under street conditions. I wouldn't expect someone planning to track their car to go for a $350 pair of downpipes when quality headers are around $2000 though.
I will keep this thread updated if they crack or self destruct under street conditions. I wouldn't expect someone planning to track their car to go for a $350 pair of downpipes when quality headers are around $2000 though.
Touché,
I don’t want to do heaters, not so much the cost but the heat associated with headers.
Has anyone tried the Alpha Speed pipes?
Pictures look much better made, even show welds on the inside and not that much more $$&.
I wanted to create this post to help anyone wanting to swap out the primary factory downpipes. This would be for people not wanting to do headers because of the tune required. I was searching time after time, trying to find photos on what everyone was talking about (Jack up the engine or remove the studs). These photos will show how to accomplish jacking up the engine and pulling off the stock downpipes.
Loosen the 4 motor mount nuts on the subframe (not all the way off). Use a jack with a thick rubber pad to lift the bottom of the motor, the selected point of the oil pan. You only have to lift the motor about 1/2 inch.
These are the studs coming off the stock manifold downpipe mounting point. You can use a socket to remove these with the engine lifted. BE CAREFUL it is very easy to round off the studs or break them. I recommend leaving the studs in place and reusing the nuts. If you get them out, you can replace them with stainless steel bolts.
Mounting the catless downpipes using the factory studs and nuts.
I used big daddies garage 90 degree adapter for the post cat o2 sensors and do not have a CEL.
I fully wrapped the pipes for heat reduction, especially around the oil cooler (GM engineers to blame). The downpipes used are EOS Catless. Total time to install when jacking the engine with access to a lift. Less than 2 hours.
You do not have to remove the X-Pipe to install the downpipes.
