2016 Stingray.
We inherited this car about 1 year ago. I have replaced the battery and had the new one tested 3 times. It is good even under a load.
If we do not drive it for 3 days, the battery is dead and I have to jump it. Is this common for these damn cars?
We took the car from TN to FL on vacation and it was parked in the hotel parking lot for a couple days and I had to jump it. No way to plug in a charger. Any tips. We are in the Chattanooga area if anyone has a shop that is good with these cars?

 

No, something is seriously wrong!!!! I have a '15 Z51 3lt and it's sat in my garage in Fla for weeks and started right up. I do usually plug in a Battery Tender Plus when it's going to sit but sitting for a few days and battery dead? Something is definitely wrong!

 

Mine will sit over three days and restart just fine. Ten year old battery too.

 

Mine is 5 years old and still starts even if I don't drive it for a few days or longer.

 

Absolutely not normal for the Corvette or for any vehicle.
I believe OP is describing what is known as a parasitic battery draw. It is an abnormal electrical drain on the battery where there should be none.

The video provides a good explanation of parasitic draw and how to troubleshoot the problem. With some electrical knowledge, troubleshooting skills and an inexpensive volt meter, the test procedures in this video may help solve the problem. Regardless, the video provides a basic understanding of parasitic draw.

 

All batteries are not created equal! I got a new battery when I got my C7 at Carmax. A year and a half later, I started having problems. Got a new AC Delco 42 month Battery, no more problems.

 

You either have a bad battery or have a major draw that is rapidly draining the battery. It should not be dead in only three days. Time to have it checked.

 

I never used his style of meter but only FLUKE meters.

On one of his reading the meter reading 0.175 which he referred to as the circuit was pulling 17.5 Ma.

Sorry, but wrong. The correct reading would have been 175 Ma, too high of a parasitic draw.. To get the correct reading he needed to move the decimal place 3 digits not 2.

I did notice that he was on the 20 amp scale and everything was connected correctly.

If you are trying to measure < 50 Ma, max allowable draw on a fully shut down system on most cars, you start your meter out on a high amperage scale and the go down to a lower scale to obtain a more accurate reading. Most meters, ~95%, wont read tenths of Ma current on a 20 amp scale.

I believe he still had electrical systems running to draw 175Ma.

The correct way to hook up a parasitic draw test set meter is:
Only loosen the neg battery clamp.
Place one of the meter leads thru the battery clamp 'hole' directly onto the top of the battery post, hold it there.
Place the other lead on the battery post itself at its bottom below the clamp once again hold it there.
Durning this test don't let any of the meter leads become disconnected from their intended contact point.
(I know it takes 3 hands).
Polarity does not matter, all your looking for is an absolute value.
Slowly remove the neg battery lead off the post without disturbing any of the meter connections.
Take your reading using a meter scale for best resolution.
Without disturbing any connections again reinstall the battery cable back onto the post.
Now you can disconnect the meter.

A lot of cars will start up their electronics if the battery power is removed and reconnected thru the meter as shown in the video. This is nothing more than a series circuit thru the meter. You need to have everything completely shut down to get a correct reading. The described method above does exactly that. Also the icing on the cake is that you have nor reset all your monitors.