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I am the OP and I will say I tried it yesterday I can live without it. I don’t see any benefits other than sound. Maybe I’m missing something.I think the heel/toe method has to do with keeping revs up when you’re shifting especially downshifting maybe someone more knowledgeable with regard that can chime in.
When going 150mph in 4th gear, hitting the last brake marker, and rapidly slowing to 30mph while also downshifting to 2nd gear and trail-braking entering a 90* left or right hand turn.....you'll find it useful.
It's a gimmick for the street. On track, whether it's due to pedal placement, pedal size, or lack of ankle flexibility, Active Rev Match (ARM) is very beneficial. C7 pedals are "One size fits all". Unfortunately that's not really possible for heel/toe on track so ARM fills that gap. On race cars, you can customize the pedals.....size, placement, etc...to the driver.
I use mine all the time. It saves on clutch wear for those of us who just slip the clutch as we down shift (which IMHO is most people).
I'm going to buy the Bronco Ford Performance Tune so I can get it in that car too. Unlike Corvette that one can just be "left on" although in my Corvette my usualy "start up procedure" is
1. Hit the Start Button
2. Disengage the Parking Brake
3. Pull the Paddle to turn on Active Rev Match
4. Hit the Cooled Seat (Setting 3)
5. If a nice day, open the Windows (two finger pull, both at the same time).
I literally do all this from muscle memory, I have to think to NOT open the windows. Sometimes I turn off the Cooled Seat if its not that warm.
I never use it in spirited driving (I grew up heel-and-toeing), but I do use it in moderate to heavy traffic where the cars around me are constantly speeding up and slowing down -- removes some of the stress in that kind of driving. So, I was kind of surprised to find it useful after all.
Thank you. I can't believe I never came across this before. It's probably why I went through so many clutches when I was young. Since I have 10 screws in my foot now, holding the bones together, It would be difficult for me to do it. I'm glad we have the rev match option. The rev match seems like it should be more accurate at matching the revs.
Rev Match is a great assist in rapid street driving (entering on/off ramps) where you're not compromising other drivers. Normal street driving, not so much.
Like 96GS #007 said, it's a huge help when on the track, especially for a novice like me. My eyes are focused on brake points and turn-in; clutch and downshifting are faster and smoother than I can achieve otherwise. The car isn't unbalanced by a poor downshift during heavy braking, when I begin looking to the apex.
With regular driving, however you do it, rev matching should definitely increase the life of the clutch, especially if you downshift. Unless the mechanics have changed since the last time I had a manual shift, when you downshift and the engine is at idle the the clutch plate is still spinning at a higher speed. When you engage it under those conditions the clutch plate slips between the pressure plate and flywheel. This wears the clutch, almost like a brake pad.
[list][*]A little more of an explanation how I use “heel & toe”. When I first started driving manual transmission cars over 50 years ago, I taught myself how to double clutch downshift. This technique uses the engine to speed up the next lower gear in the transmission rather than relying on the synchro rings to do that; thereby saving on synchro ring wear and allowing quicker downshifts when done properly.
The sequence is:
- let off throttle and push in the clutch
- shift transmission to neutral
- let up clutch and rev engine to proper RPM for the next lower gear
- push clutch in and shift transmission to next lower gear
-let out clutch while revving the engine to the proper RPM
Done properly, this results in a very quick and smooth downshift with minimal strain on the transmission and clutch. BTW, this method was mandatory on non-synchromesh transmissions back in the day.
I incorporated “heel & toe” to blip the throttle while double clutching and braking.
The sequence is:
- let off throttle and push in the clutch
- shift transmission to neutral
- let up clutch and rev engine to proper RPM for the next lower gear
- push clutch in and shift transmission to next lower gear
-let out clutch while revving the engine to the proper RPM
My question is how do you know what the proper RPM is?
My question is how do you know what the proper RPM is?
By experience, practise and sound. You get to know by a sort of 6th sense. As an approximation (as far as I recall…I never look at the tach now) each downshift on a C7 7-speed is about 700 RPM for each gear (I.e: 3rd to 2nd -700 RPM higher, 3rd to 1st - 1500 RPM) higher, etc)..
A little more of an explanation how I use “heel & toe”. When I first started driving manual transmission cars over 50 years ago, I taught myself how to double clutch downshift. This technique uses the engine to speed up the next lower gear in the transmission rather than relying on the synchro rings to do that; thereby saving on synchro ring wear and allowing quicker downshifts when done properly.
The sequence is:
- let off throttle and push in the clutch
- shift transmission to neutral
- let up clutch and rev engine to proper RPM for the next lower gear
- push clutch in and shift transmission to next lower gear
-let out clutch while revving the engine to the proper RPM
Done properly, this results in a very quick and smooth downshift with minimal strain on the transmission and clutch. BTW, this method was mandatory on non-synchromesh transmissions back in the day.
I incorporated “heel & toe” to blip the throttle while double clutching and braking.
Double clutching is not necessary with modern transmissions plus that is not heel and toeing.
By experience, practise and sound. You get to know by a sort of 6th sense. As an approximation (as far as I recall…I never look at the tach now) each downshift on a C7 7-speed is about 700 RPM for each gear (I.e: 3rd to 2nd -700 RPM higher, 3rd to 1st - 1500 RPM) higher, etc)..
I guess for those of us who do not have that sixth sense will have to rely on the technology.
You'd be surprised how quickly you figure it out. It really is sort of like riding a bike....it just clicks.
I've been driving a stick shift since 2006, I still can't shift smooth.
In Germany a lot of my relatives drive stick shifts. My aunt never shifted well, my uncle used to always make fun of her about it (they both have automatics now). Some people just can't learn it, we don't have the "feel"
I've been driving a stick shift since 2006, I still can't shift smooth.
In Germany a lot of my relatives drive stick shifts. My aunt never shifted well, my uncle used to always make fun of her about it (they both have automatics now). Some people just can't learn it, we don't have the "feel"
I don't believe in the notion that, 'Some people just can’t learn it..'
Let's think about this. You learned how to crawl, you learned how to walk, and you learned how to run. And along the way you learned how to feed yourself with a fork without poking your eye out.
I think that anyone can learn to drive a manual transmission vehicle with a little patience and practice.
If you're having a problem with smooth shifts,
Find open roads with little traffic, carry no passengers, radio off and rev match off. Become accustomed to the sound of the engine and the feedback you'll feel through the shifter.
I believe this is the quickest way to truly learn the C7 M7.
BTW, the performance transmissions in the Z51/GS have the lowest gear train ratio of the C7 generation. They are a little more difficult to become accustomed to. Keep at it. You’ll get there.
I've been driving a stick shift since 2006, I still can't shift smooth.
In Germany a lot of my relatives drive stick shifts. My aunt never shifted well, my uncle used to always make fun of her about it (they both have automatics now). Some people just can't learn it, we don't have the "feel"
Letting the clutch out to get a car moving smoothly is actually a 2-part process. The first part is to let the clutch out until it starts to engage (drag or friction point). Then start to feed in a little throttle while letting the clutch out in a controlled manner (I.e.: a little bit slow) without excessively slipping the clutch. How fast will depend on the engine taking up the load.
With practise this will be one continuous movement of the clutch pedal, but there will still be the two parts of engaging the clutch.
I don't believe in the notion that, 'Some people just can’t learn it..'
Let's think about this. You learned how to crawl, you learned how to walk, and you learned how to run. And along the way you learned how to feed yourself with a fork without poking your eye out.
I think that anyone can learn to drive a manual transmission vehicle with a little patience and practice.
If you're having a problem with smooth shifts,
Find open roads with little traffic, carry no passengers, radio off and rev match off. Become accustomed to the sound of the engine and the feedback you'll feel through the shifter.
I believe this is the quickest way to truly learn the C7 M7.
BTW, the performance transmissions in the Z51/GS have the lowest gear train ratio of the C7 generation. They are a little more difficult to become accustomed to. Keep at it. You’ll get there.
It's not that we can't shift. Shifting smooth requires a skill some people just don't have.
For example I can't dunk a basketball. I can't throw a fastball at 100 mph. It's not that I can't shift, I can't feel the clutch engage and disengage in the pedal. I just can't. I've driven stick shift cars for nearly 20 years, and it eludes me.
It's not that we can't shift. Shifting smooth requires a skill some people just don't have.
For example I can't dunk a basketball. I can't throw a fastball at 100 mph. It's not that I can't shift, I can't feel the clutch engage and disengage in the pedal. I just can't. I've driven stick shift cars for nearly 20 years, and it eludes me.
I agree. I am letting the computer do the math for me on this one.
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