Warped rotors
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Aug 1, 2024, 11:47 PM
Tech Contributor
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Bill
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From: Truckee, CA
I believe a common cause of warped rotors is not torquing the lug nuts. If a shop ever removes any of my wheels, I torque them down myself soon afterwards and then I torque them again after 20 miles and again after another 20 miles. I used to get warped rotors but not since I started torquing them myself.
Last edited by DugT; Aug 2, 2024 at 08:43 AM.
Tech Contributor
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Bill
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From: Truckee, CA
Rotors don't warp. You more than likely have uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors. Deposits can be caused by dragging the brakes to slowly bring the car to a stop Vs using the brakes harder to bring it to a quicker stop in a shorter distance, or heating the brakes to a high temp and then stopping and holding the brakes on. The hot rotor will get an imprint of the pads on both sides of the rotor. Over time the deposits may wear off or may continually get hot and effectively change the metallurgy of the rotor so that spot on the rotor gets extremely hard. What you feel is changes in friction as the rotor is rotating over deposits or the hard spots in the rotor.
Bill
Bill
The good news is, I believe things can be done to remove uneven pad deposits on rotors.
Race Director
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The dealer wants to sell you new rotors. I'd go to a well-respected independent shop than would do a light shaving of the rotors for you. Or at least find out what that would cost you in comparison to the purchase.
Racer
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Agreed. I've had good luck just scuffing them up with Scotch-brite type sanding pads on a die grinder.
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I found this site to be very informative on “warped” rotors - https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrE...SMl.oFba9UcG0-.
I would have your rotors looked at by a trusted shop to determine if they are causing you problems. I would think that with 25K miles on the car the rotors should not be a problem unless your driving habits are such that the problem surfaces.
I would have your rotors looked at by a trusted shop to determine if they are causing you problems. I would think that with 25K miles on the car the rotors should not be a problem unless your driving habits are such that the problem surfaces.
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I had to replace my front rotors due to warping last October on my ‘19 Grand Sport with around 31k miles on it. I suspect the previous owner may had tracked the car.
Well made a huge mistake, had the dealer do it. They ended up charging me full MSRP for each rotor which was over $900 each! Could have bought them myself from one of these discount GM parts sites for way cheaper. Oh well!
Well made a huge mistake, had the dealer do it. They ended up charging me full MSRP for each rotor which was over $900 each! Could have bought them myself from one of these discount GM parts sites for way cheaper. Oh well!
Drifting
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From: NY
Rotors don't warp. You more than likely have uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors. Deposits can be caused by dragging the brakes to slowly bring the car to a stop Vs using the brakes harder to bring it to a quicker stop in a shorter distance, or heating the brakes to a high temp and then stopping and holding the brakes on. The hot rotor will get an imprint of the pads on both sides of the rotor. Over time the deposits may wear off or may continually get hot and effectively change the metallurgy of the rotor so that spot on the rotor gets extremely hard. What you feel is changes in friction as the rotor is rotating over deposits or the hard spots in the rotor.
Bill
Bill
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: Georgetown, Tx
Rotors don't warp. You more than likely have uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors. Deposits can be caused by dragging the brakes to slowly bring the car to a stop Vs using the brakes harder to bring it to a quicker stop in a shorter distance, or heating the brakes to a high temp and then stopping and holding the brakes on. The hot rotor will get an imprint of the pads on both sides of the rotor. Over time the deposits may wear off or may continually get hot and effectively change the metallurgy of the rotor so that spot on the rotor gets extremely hard. What you feel is changes in friction as the rotor is rotating over deposits or the hard spots in the rotor.
Bill
Bill
I can certainly agree with what Bill says here. Sometimes I get a pulsation in the braking system of my Denali. And it certainly does appear to be a warped rotor. Then, under more intense braking the pulsation goes away.
Very good explanation from Bill..
Racer
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From: Truckee, CA
If you use the method above, go to a quiet remote street, get up to good speed and slam on your brakes. Hold the brake pedal down hard until you are going slow but not stopped. Do this three times in a row. This will heat up your rotors and make it easier to remove uneven pad material on your rotors. If you come to a stop when your rotors are hot and keep your brake pedal. depressed, you will make the problem worse! You should always try to avoid that scenario.
A method I just read about is, install race brake pads. The are abrasive when cold and will remove uneven pad deposits. Installing and removing brake pads is easy if you are even somewhat mechanically inclined. That's what my mom says.
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Rotors don't warp. You more than likely have uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors. Deposits can be caused by dragging the brakes to slowly bring the car to a stop Vs using the brakes harder to bring it to a quicker stop in a shorter distance, or heating the brakes to a high temp and then stopping and holding the brakes on. The hot rotor will get an imprint of the pads on both sides of the rotor. Over time the deposits may wear off or may continually get hot and effectively change the metallurgy of the rotor so that spot on the rotor gets extremely hard. What you feel is changes in friction as the rotor is rotating over deposits or the hard spots in the rotor.
Bill
Bill
If I do a lot of easy braking for a while, I'll start getting the pulsation in my brakes. A good run through a twisty back road or a day of autocross will fix things up.
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When stopping I would stop a little harder initially so that you can let up on the pedal and generate less heat right before you stop. If you're going to be stopped for a while at a light, leave enough room in front of you to creep forward a couple of times to shift the position of the pads on the rotors. That's the stopping technique I use and so far, so good. If you have to make a hard stop, try to shift the pad position two or three times while you're stopped.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2008
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Car was tracked, brake fluid is black and cooked
Firestone wouldnt touch it, and Dealer confirmed
Rotors glazed and warped (yet no feedback in pedal), tires replaced 3x every 10K per carfax, was kinda the first clue but wasnt sure.
Im going to have my brothers shop do the work for alot less. I just need to scan the forum for the threads recommending the best street brake rotors and pads
I may just go PowerStop Z23
Last edited by CreepinDeth; Aug 19, 2024 at 04:52 PM.
Tech Contributor
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
I agree with torquing the wheels correctly but incorrect torque won't warp the rotors unless the wheels are so loose the car is dangerous to drive. With the C7 GS, Z06 and ZR1 the rotors are two-piece floating rotors (with a hat and a rotor ring that is attached to the hat with a bobbin system. The rotor rings can expand/contract separately from the hat. If the the car is a C7 Stingray or Z51 then the rotor is a single piece solid rotor. They still won't warp due to incorrect torque because the stud passes freely through the rotor and the wheel clamps the rotor between itself and the hub face. In the 60s when they first introduced disc brakes on US cars the rotors held the wheel bearings and the wheel studs were mounted to the rotor. If those rotors were over torqued they could be warped. However, the Corvette hasn't been built that way since the 1982 model stopped production.
Bill
Bill