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I'm probably going to deep on this one but want to make sure I use the right/best bolt and torque spec. The ATI damper I got came with GM 11570163 (black, captive washer).
Would any of these 3 bolts be better than the other? I imagine they're just flanged head vs captive washer and likely the orange sealant seen on the factory flanged bolt.
The service manual is clear on torque spec vs bolt washer style. Should I just finish it up with the captive washer I have? (Still debating if I should put a thin film of RTV on the inside to seal to crank pulley.
Thanks - last step of a crank pulley job that has taken me way too long.
I don't see the ARP as a pure upgrade, sure it's a re-usable bolt I just don't like the big deviation from OEM specs - not TTY, wants loctite, have seen varying information on install torque.
There's some accounts of them backing out but I believe that's C6 and before with the non-pinned harmonic balancer. If it's known to be a guaranteed upgrade I can grab one local.
I don't see the ARP as a pure upgrade, sure it's a re-usable bolt I just don't like the big deviation from OEM specs - not TTY, wants loctite, have seen varying information on install torque.
There's some accounts of them backing out but I believe that's C6 and before with the non-pinned harmonic balancer. If it's known to be a guaranteed upgrade I can grab one local.
personally anytime I can use a bolt thats not a tty I prefer it. simple torque sequence and done. no worries about did I go to far past 90 not far enough did it stretch properly those bolts are better suited for an automated line done by a robot torque wrench . I have a dry sump arp bolt sitting on the shelf just for this when the motor comes out for a cam upgrade
Thanks for the feedback 9sec, I ended up using the captive washer torque to yield bolt #11570163 per the instructions and everything went smooth. Paint marked it and will observe over time.
Crankshaft pulley bolt differences?
