cars have never interested me until I saw the c8. since then I've really wanted one but I just can't justify the monthly bill on it. although in my search, I've found a c7 I really like.. a lot. and it's fairly affordable. its a 2017 3lt z51 manual with 27k miles on it for about 48k + tax. and I far prefer stick shift over automatic and with stick now being a thing of the past, I'm sure cars like this will be harder to come by and more expensive. I've tried to final a similar match online, but there's nothing advertised within 500 miles of me that is close to what this one is. at least as a 2017 z51 -- and certainly not accident free. plus, I'm tired of slow cars. I drive a 138 horsepower pos and going from that to a 460 horsepower monster is a feeling I cannot describe lol, which is another reason I really like that thing. I could actually pass a semi going uphill for once. I'll still keep that other hideous car as my daily driver though. but, I feel like there's a couple caveats to this car. for one, it's being sold at a toyota dealership. for two, it's used and I know nothing about cars. it's had 2 owners and no accidents though, at least on carfax. I've also test driven it a few times and it sounds really solid, but I did notice the quarter panel issue where it starts to separate, on the back passenger side. is it wrong to buy from a non chevy dealership if the original warranty is expired? I'm a little worried about getting screwed because of that, but I'm not 100% certain it really matters. I definitely need a warranty but I have a feeling that since it's going thru a toyota dealership and not chevy - they're not an authorized chevy shop so any repairs they would do would have inflated prices outside of warranty, or they wouldn't be able to do some random repair at all. what are your thoughts? is this car a fair price and is it ok to buy from a non chevy dealership, or is this a bad idea? thank you

 

Buying a specific brand car from the dealership of a different manufacturer is not a big deal in my mind. However getting service at another manufacturer's dealership would be a big "no" for me. There has got to be Chevy dealers in your area. In terms of warranty to aftermarket extended warranty. There are threads on here talking about some of the sellers of just that.

Buying used always entails some amount of risk since you have no idea how it has been driven, serviced, cared for in the past. You have to decide if the car is something you want and the price accurately reflects the going rate for a car of that year with those features. In terms of the price on this one there ae plenty of sites for comparison ... but one you might not think of is Carvana. You do not want to restrict your search to your area as you are looking for a general market value. Once you understand the market better you will have an idea of the deal you are getting -- even with you quarter panel issue.

By the way, if you check the postings on this forum you will find a number of folks with LT3 dash separation issues...

 

Take a look at Carvana. In my area there were about 40 to choose from. Some people are scared of Carvana BUT you get a limited warranty and more importantly 7 day return. That’s where I got my vette. It was beautiful and I had seven days to get it up in the air and check it before I decided to keep it. You also get 400 miles , plenty of time to make sure you made a good choice

 

See if the seller would allow you to take the car to a Chevy dealer or a good indy mechanic for an inspection, you can also get a GMVIS report from the Chevy dealer to see some history on the car, look the car over closely yourself...does it look like it was well taken care of?

 

I bought my 2014 from a Hyundai dealer - car was perfect and has been a real joy to own. If you want a bit more peace of mind, have the car inspected by a good Covette tech at a local Chevy dealer. If the current dealer won’t allow that, keep looking.

 

Quarter panel separation issue? Haven't heard of or seen that.

 

I’ve had very good luck buying from CarMax. Six different cars including Corvettes and Mustang GT’s with no issues. For peace of mind, I always add their max care warranty which is one of the best in the business IMO. And if not satisfied you can return the vehicle for a full refund up to 30 days or 1500 miles.

That being said, my current 2014 Z51 C7 coupe was purchased from a local BMW dealer. It was a very low mileage (13k miles) local one owner Vette with the A6 transmission and 2LT trim, and they did offer an aftermarket extended warranty on it, which I went ahead and purchased. So far, the car has been problem free and a joy to own.

 

Prices might be going down since it is winter in many parts of the country. As to being more expensive, aren't cars a guaranteed depreciation thing for the most part?

Why does the distance matter to you?

So what? I bought a Ford truck at Carmax. I have bought MBs at other places besides the MB dealer.

If the warranty concerns you, price it out HERE.

Do you know enough to do a Pre-Delivery Inspection and have a rack in your backpack? If not, find the nearest Chevy dealer at that place and ask for their Corvette certified tech to do a PDI. Sure, you will pay 2 or 3 hours but probably better than being the usual buyer that drives it around the block hoping for things that are wrong to pop up. Either that of see if the dealer has some sort of short warranty to let you drive it home and then to the Chevy dealer for the PDI.

 

Would be interested in seeing a pic of this area

 

Way too high.

 

Got mine at an independent dealer. Just have to make sure to have a good punch list and ask questions. I was able to get mine on a lift, which I thought was a good gesture.

 

IDK about asking questions. Who would answer them? Salespeople are excellent for the financing and warranty and maybe some features. I have not found them particularly knowledgeable on used cars especially when they aren't a dealership. I would go talk to a VW dealer about current VWs but how good would an independent dealer be with VW? IF I sell VWs so I probably would know more about VWs and the used cars, for example. How much exposure would I have with say a Buick that just came onto the lot? Think I would be able to hold an in depth conversation with you about the Buick Encore that just got cycled to the lot I work at last week?

Why not get a Certified Corvette tech who probably knows a bit more about that platform to do the inspection? I get that you are going to pay for 2 or 3 hours for his time but what is the appeal of a DIY inspection? Back in the 80s when there were a couple of modules, sure. Fast forwarded to the C7. I can't just drive around the block a couple of times and know them or how to check for things

 

That's what I would do.

 

Just be prepared for a 3 hour job YOU pay for. IOW the tech works for YOU. Preferably, one that he doesn't go to.

 

I paid $49k for mine about 4 years ago with 13,000 on the clock and in excellent condition—I love love it!!

Some specific things for you and/or your mechanic to look for:

a) Separation of leather anywhere on the dash and especially the defrost vents (3LT problem only). If it hasn’t become a problem by now, it’s not going to be a problem.

b) Check the differential fluid level. Some were delivered from the factory with about 2 quarts, not the required 3 quarts resulting in diff issues later.

c) Check to see if the car has been lowered. You can lower it about 1 inch on the stock bolts. Google this or check this forum for more info. If lowered, the alignment should be adjusted. Check the tires for uneven wear.

d) Check the date code on the tires to determine if they are original. If they have a ZP code, they are zero pressure tires, aka run flats.

e) Only check the oil level using a particular procedure found in the owner’s manual (dry sump). Change your own oil or only use mechanics who are familiar with dry sump engines, 2 drain plugs, etc.

f) Check for any oil in the intake tube leading to the throttle body which is caused by overfilling the oil due to incorrect e) above.

g) Check the clutch fluid for level and color. Dark fluid is common because it heats up, especially on the track. Change it frequently based on color. Use the Ranger method or modified Ranger method to change it. Look on this forum for details.

Lastly, drive it well at highway speeds and slow, check all drive modes and check all electronics (there are a lot especially 3LT). Note that at cold temperatures, tight slow speed turns will cause front wheel skipping/hopping with most ZP tires. Google Ackerman effect for details.

Welcome to the best American sports car and the forum—you will love it!!