Shifting Issues
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 734
From: Phoenix, Arizona
A quick tip I figured out to that helps me with the 7th to 6th downshift is based on taking advantage of the reverse gate being locked out when the car is at speed (from manual: "The vehicle can be safely shifted into R (Reverse) while the vehicle is moving less than 5 km/h (3 mph). If the vehicle is going faster than that, R (Reverse) is locked out.")
Based on that I simply pull straight down on the shifter from 7th with a VERY LIGHT pressure to the right like i was going into reverse. The locked reverse gate will actually help guide your shifter to the left and down into 6th. Give it a try and you'll see what I mean. The movement will come easy and you'll learn the right amount of pressure to keep on the shifter so it doesn't go all the way to 4th gear detent. I promise, you'll never miss the 7th to 6th gear downshift again.
Let me know what you think
BTW, I have the MGW short throw shifter. I felt my stock shifter was a little loose and clunky feeling and I just prefer the more precise feel of the shorter throw MGW.
Based on that I simply pull straight down on the shifter from 7th with a VERY LIGHT pressure to the right like i was going into reverse. The locked reverse gate will actually help guide your shifter to the left and down into 6th. Give it a try and you'll see what I mean. The movement will come easy and you'll learn the right amount of pressure to keep on the shifter so it doesn't go all the way to 4th gear detent. I promise, you'll never miss the 7th to 6th gear downshift again.
Let me know what you think
BTW, I have the MGW short throw shifter. I felt my stock shifter was a little loose and clunky feeling and I just prefer the more precise feel of the shorter throw MGW.
Last edited by Flattman; Nov 2, 2024 at 01:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 539
Likes: 20
From: Southeast Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16
It's notchy for sure stock. The gears are spaced small, very easy to miss a shift. The MGW increased effort on my car. I have to make sure I'm in the gear I need, & it takes positive engagement on my part. It was re-designed a few years back. I think that increased the stiffness. But stock isn't too bad, it's different. Can't be sloppy.
You want bad? Someone drive a 88 Bronco with the 5 speed. That thing pops out of gear at will.
You want bad? Someone drive a 88 Bronco with the 5 speed. That thing pops out of gear at will.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 910
Likes: 431
From: MN
Not sure if that clunk was from play in the diff, or something with the transmission mounts etc.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,732
Likes: 710
From: Shelton, Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Changed to Red Line D4 ATF. Minimal difference from what I could tell.
Installed a Hurst Billet pistol grip shifter. Shorter throw, still had trouble finding the gear.
Put the factory shifter back in.
One thing I noticed was you have to pull the shifter full left for 1st and 2nd gear. Then it
is easier to find 3rd and 4th gear.
Using only 5 gears around town makes it easier to drive the M7.
Installed a Hurst Billet pistol grip shifter. Shorter throw, still had trouble finding the gear.
Put the factory shifter back in.
One thing I noticed was you have to pull the shifter full left for 1st and 2nd gear. Then it
is easier to find 3rd and 4th gear.
Using only 5 gears around town makes it easier to drive the M7.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 32,295
Likes: 4,625
So it's been 3 months since I purchased my '14 Z51 with manual transmission. I put 1500 miles on the car which now has 51k miles. This is my 3rd Corvette I've owned. The other 2 we're C6's. For the most part, I really like the car. But one thing that is really starting to annoy me is the awful shifter. Not only is it super clunky, it's hard to shift into 1st at a stop and I have to double check that it's actually in 1st or it will slip out and grind when taking off even though it feels like it's in 1st and shows 1 on the HUD. Another "annoyance" is downshifting from 7th to 6th when cruising on the highway. It's very easy to shift from 7th to 4th if you're not really careful. It's the clunkiest shifter that I've ever driven and at 70 years old, I have driven many sports cars with manual transmissions. I would appreciate any thoughts you may have regarding this issue and possible fixes. Thanks in advance.
About 1st gear when cold at start up, try this; always shift into 2nd, before shifting into 1st. Even when warmed up. Just an easier routine to 1st.
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 259
From: Apple Valley CA
Rebuilding the shifter box is exactly what you're after.
The box gets sloppy with age and time contributing to sloppy, vague feeling as well as making it harder to get into gear. Going to an aftermarket shifter will give you a shorter throw of the stick from gear to gear but it also increases the effort required to shift significantly. Upgrading the box and the shifter bushing (which is the bushing on the bottom pivot of the shifter that connects the shifter to the box) will make a stock shifter feel much tighter, smoother and more precise without increasing the effort required to run through the gears. This upgrade dampens vibration much better and will last the life of the car.
If you can have the car down you can send your box in to be upgraded, I'll have it for a couple days and send it back with whatever other parts you need. If you can not have the car down you can go with the Billet Box which is an aftermarket replacement for the stock box you can swap in. Both options use the same internals, they feel and function the same.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, I'm happy to answer anything I can.
-Tom
https://tmodcustoms.com/products/upgraded-factory-boxes
The box gets sloppy with age and time contributing to sloppy, vague feeling as well as making it harder to get into gear. Going to an aftermarket shifter will give you a shorter throw of the stick from gear to gear but it also increases the effort required to shift significantly. Upgrading the box and the shifter bushing (which is the bushing on the bottom pivot of the shifter that connects the shifter to the box) will make a stock shifter feel much tighter, smoother and more precise without increasing the effort required to run through the gears. This upgrade dampens vibration much better and will last the life of the car.
If you can have the car down you can send your box in to be upgraded, I'll have it for a couple days and send it back with whatever other parts you need. If you can not have the car down you can go with the Billet Box which is an aftermarket replacement for the stock box you can swap in. Both options use the same internals, they feel and function the same.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, I'm happy to answer anything I can.
-Tom
https://tmodcustoms.com/products/upgraded-factory-boxes
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 943
From: Bonney Lake Washington
He hit it square
Use the Ranger method to change the clutch fluid and then change the transmission fluid. I use Redline D4 ATF. Yes, the manual uses an ATF, just like the TR6060 did in the C6.
After the above, there's a bulletin on how to adjust the shift linkage in the car. After a decade of use, it may have worn or moved a bit.
Lastly, the MGW shifter is a nice change.
After the above, there's a bulletin on how to adjust the shift linkage in the car. After a decade of use, it may have worn or moved a bit.
Lastly, the MGW shifter is a nice change.
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