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Torqueing Wheel Nuts When Hot?

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Old May 12, 2025 | 10:07 AM
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Default Torqueing Wheel Nuts When Hot?

My procedure has been to torque the wheel nuts when everything has cooled down, because the aluminum in the wheels and steel in the lugs, expand/contract at different rates with temperature changes.

Perhaps the lengths of the lugs vs the length of the nuts somehow cancel out the differences in expansion/contraction. Or maybe the changes are too little to make any difference.

Does anyone know?
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Old May 12, 2025 | 10:16 AM
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I don't know the answer but I just found this video and I've been torquing my wheels improperly all along. lol

Based on the video I'd say improper torquing technique would be more harmful then the temperature of the wheels, especially with only a 100ft lb spec. If you're doing it correctly I can't see the temperature having much impact.


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Old May 12, 2025 | 11:00 AM
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I have always set the torque on my wheels when the wheels are cold.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 03:09 PM
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Screw threads is a engineering science in its own..... A can of worms.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 05:38 PM
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Tire Rack says let everything cool to ambient. Obviously, DO NOT use any lubricant. This would be more reproducible than some random temperature.

Ron
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Old May 12, 2025 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RonC7
Obviously, DO NOT use any lubricant.
Why? As long as you compensate for it being "wet torque", what is the problem?
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Old May 12, 2025 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Why? As long as you compensate for it being "wet torque", what is the problem?
I've seem some tables to compensate for wet torque, but there were large variations depending on the metals, lubes, and torque involved.
If you knew the specific metals and lubes being used, it looked like it would work. But under most conditions, it only gave you a guess.
Certainly better than nothing, but I prefer to use dry clean threads and proper technique. Some people use anti-seize because of possible rust but in 60 years of driving in the upper Midwest I've never had wheel nuts stuck on my cars. Other people's junk, yes. But that's why God invented the Cheater Bar, to get them off.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
I've seem some tables to compensate for wet torque, but there were large variations depending on the metals, lubes, and torque involved.
If you knew the specific metals and lubes being used, it looked like it would work. But under most conditions, it only gave you a guess.
Certainly better than nothing, but I prefer to use dry clean threads and proper technique. Some people use anti-seize because of possible rust but in 60 years of driving in the upper Midwest I've never had wheel nuts stuck on my cars. Other people's junk, yes. But that's why God invented the Cheater Bar, to get them off.
I drop it by 20% to compensate. It wasn't possible rust for me. It was definitely rust and a few wheel studs had to be replaced. Worse when it is German cars that use wheel bolts. When that breaks, you are really screwed. I can use a pipe or an impact at low torque to try get it off but if it breaks, you are replacing studs. When a wheel bolt broke, I just brought it to a mechanic.
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Old May 12, 2025 | 11:15 PM
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Normal operations I torque when cold. That said, back in my track day days, when rotating between sessions the wheels and studs were definitely warm when reinstalling. I always rechecked after the following session, often a little movement but all in all no issues.
Aluminum does have a greater thermal expansion coefficient than steel. Big picture I think getting the torque correct is most important. If temperature was an issue then we'd have hot and cold torque specs in the manual and more to argue about. I suspect the engineers took thermal expansion into account when creating the torque spec. I didn't work in automotive, but in my aerospace days I would have to take into account thermal, vibration, acceleration loads into my bolted joints. This all has to be accounted for in automotive application too.
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Old May 13, 2025 | 12:35 AM
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I torque when cold or if I have changed wheels between sessions, I do my final torque just before I get in the car for the next session.

Torquing every morning during a multiday event usually results in little to no movement of the lug nut.

Bill
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Old May 14, 2025 | 09:03 PM
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I have always done them cold, even when racing at Bonneville. Never any issues.
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Old May 14, 2025 | 09:13 PM
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Does anyone know the actual difference they see between hot and cold? Maybe a nice figure would help? If it is a 100 ft/lbs thing and we are talking 2 ft/lbs, who cares? OTOH, if it is 20 ft/lbs difference, sure.
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