When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My procedure has been to torque the wheel nuts when everything has cooled down, because the aluminum in the wheels and steel in the lugs, expand/contract at different rates with temperature changes.
Perhaps the lengths of the lugs vs the length of the nuts somehow cancel out the differences in expansion/contraction. Or maybe the changes are too little to make any difference.
I don't know the answer but I just found this video and I've been torquing my wheels improperly all along. lol
Based on the video I'd say improper torquing technique would be more harmful then the temperature of the wheels, especially with only a 100ft lb spec. If you're doing it correctly I can't see the temperature having much impact.
Why? As long as you compensate for it being "wet torque", what is the problem?
I've seem some tables to compensate for wet torque, but there were large variations depending on the metals, lubes, and torque involved.
If you knew the specific metals and lubes being used, it looked like it would work. But under most conditions, it only gave you a guess.
Certainly better than nothing, but I prefer to use dry clean threads and proper technique. Some people use anti-seize because of possible rust but in 60 years of driving in the upper Midwest I've never had wheel nuts stuck on my cars. Other people's junk, yes. But that's why God invented the Cheater Bar, to get them off.
I've seem some tables to compensate for wet torque, but there were large variations depending on the metals, lubes, and torque involved.
If you knew the specific metals and lubes being used, it looked like it would work. But under most conditions, it only gave you a guess.
Certainly better than nothing, but I prefer to use dry clean threads and proper technique. Some people use anti-seize because of possible rust but in 60 years of driving in the upper Midwest I've never had wheel nuts stuck on my cars. Other people's junk, yes. But that's why God invented the Cheater Bar, to get them off.
I drop it by 20% to compensate. It wasn't possible rust for me. It was definitely rust and a few wheel studs had to be replaced. Worse when it is German cars that use wheel bolts. When that breaks, you are really screwed. I can use a pipe or an impact at low torque to try get it off but if it breaks, you are replacing studs. When a wheel bolt broke, I just brought it to a mechanic.
Normal operations I torque when cold. That said, back in my track day days, when rotating between sessions the wheels and studs were definitely warm when reinstalling. I always rechecked after the following session, often a little movement but all in all no issues.
Aluminum does have a greater thermal expansion coefficient than steel. Big picture I think getting the torque correct is most important. If temperature was an issue then we'd have hot and cold torque specs in the manual and more to argue about. I suspect the engineers took thermal expansion into account when creating the torque spec. I didn't work in automotive, but in my aerospace days I would have to take into account thermal, vibration, acceleration loads into my bolted joints. This all has to be accounted for in automotive application too.
Does anyone know the actual difference they see between hot and cold? Maybe a nice figure would help? If it is a 100 ft/lbs thing and we are talking 2 ft/lbs, who cares? OTOH, if it is 20 ft/lbs difference, sure.