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Did you replace the thermostat and temperature yourself? If you're unable to pinpoint the cause for the warm air, it is worth bringing your Stingray to a Chevrolet dealership for further inspection. As they are the mechanical experts, it's always advised to seek their guidance when something isn't right. If you'd like assistance connecting with one near you, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com that includes your username and forum title in the subject line.
There are dozens of possible reasons. How many parts and how much $$$ do you want to throw at it?
As noted above, the only thing that was replaced that can stop A/C compressor function is if the coolant temp is not reading correctly - the car assumes the engine is HOT and disables the compressor and some other heat producing items.
Now that I have your attention, answer a few questions to maybe narrow this down a bit:
- why did you have thermostat and coolant temp sensor replaced?
- did A/C work before the replacements?
- did the mechanical analog gauge or any electronic gauge proper show coolant temp? If so, where did the temp run?
- you say temp now runs 190 - on what indicator? (doesn't really matter on 2015, but curious)
- verify fuses 35 & 59 are not blown
- have you examined A/C relay 59? Is there another relay with the same part number you can swap?
- disconnect negative battery cable for 30 minutes to initialize all computer modules - you may have to reindex windows, radio presets, and seat memory - maybe the system will reset
Replaced sensor because cooling fan kept running after car was shut down. Thermostat was replaced because dealership said it was bad. 190 degree readout is taken from the display on the dash. 59 fuse is same as 58 fuse and were switched out. AC worked before new thermostat and sensor but blew only a fraction of the setting. Did some additional reading and it sounds more of a condenser issue.
blew only a fraction of the setting I think you are saying air was cool but not cold before work was done. It is not unusual for the radiator fan to run for up to 20 min after engine shutdown in hot weather.
Have the A/C checked - just tell service that A/C was weak before, now doesn't work. I would suspect low refrigerant charge. Usually not a big repair.
Replaced sensor because cooling fan kept running after car was shut down. Thermostat was replaced because dealership said it was bad. 190 degree readout is taken from the display on the dash. 59 fuse is same as 58 fuse and were switched out. AC worked before new thermostat and sensor but blew only a fraction of the setting. Did some additional reading and it sounds more of a condenser issue.
Replacing the sensor was a waste of money and, it was still good. The thermostat was most likely the culprit, probably stuck open. This is a common problem that mostly shows up in colder seasons which makes the initial problem worse. Long story short, the ECU goes into limp mode turning off AC controls, and rev match (if m7). Disconnecting the battery resets the limp mode, so AC controls should work, and it will be obvious if they don't work. The AC not blowing cold air could be a different problem.