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No, not getting another Vette. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on disassembling the dash and pulling out the infotainment system that has developed the "Black Screen of Death" and having it refurbished/repaired. I'm looking for someone that's gone that route that may have a few hints and/or suggestions to ease the journey. I've just about memorized the YouTube videos on the removal procedure, got the trim pry bars and sockets/Torx bits on standby and I've got a few leads on refurbishers to repair the unit once it's out. Have any of you out there done it this way and what are your suggestions? I've got a fairly decent background in auto repair so I'm not afraid to tackle the procedure. Any help and any recommendations on disassembly and reassembly or experiences with refurbishers would be appreciated!
2014 Stingray
Crystal Red/Kalahari
Are you first going to replace the cable before condemning the screen? It's a very common problem with a $7 fix if you are lucky. I'm just curious if you saw any flashing before it eventually blacked out and I assume it still outputs sound.
When I did mine, I just went through it slowly and methodically being very careful. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. Once you get past the anxiety of popping plastic pieces apart, it really isn't that bad. The hardest part for me was the last bit of popping the dash loose at the infotainment screen since I didn't want to snap it. Reassembly was way easier than disassembly since I then knew how everything went back together.
IA-SteveB, Thanks for the tips and video. Yes, I'm going to check the cable first before I go whole-hog on getting the unit refurbished/replaced as the cable seems to be the weak link in everyone's unit. My screen acts exactly as yours does so I'm hoping that the new cable will solve the issue. Am I correct that the two cables are the same and can they be interchanged? I don't have PDR so can I just remove the offending cable and use the other? Or accept the fact that the second cable probably has been bending up and down just as many times as the first cable and is just a problem waiting to happen? Since the cable is so inexpensive, should I just go ahead and order one to have on hand when I find that it is, indeed, the problem? Does the unit have to be removed from the dash to change the cable(s) or can it be done in place? 449er, Thanks, too, for the patience comment. It's something I need to keep in mind. I'm purposely doing this in the off-season (I've lived with it since spring "25) so there's no rush to "git-r-done" and walking away will be a good remedy for frustration!
IA-SteveB, Thanks for the tips and video. Yes, I'm going to check the cable first before I go whole-hog on getting the unit refurbished/replaced as the cable seems to be the weak link in everyone's unit. My screen acts exactly as yours does so I'm hoping that the new cable will solve the issue. Am I correct that the two cables are the same and can they be interchanged? I don't have PDR so can I just remove the offending cable and use the other? Or accept the fact that the second cable probably has been bending up and down just as many times as the first cable and is just a problem waiting to happen? Since the cable is so inexpensive, should I just go ahead and order one to have on hand when I find that it is, indeed, the problem? Does the unit have to be removed from the dash to change the cable(s) or can it be done in place? 449er, Thanks, too, for the patience comment. It's something I need to keep in mind. I'm purposely doing this in the off-season (I've lived with it since spring "25) so there's no rush to "git-r-done" and walking away will be a good remedy for frustration!
I am betting the cable is the problem, then. Super common in 2014 models. One weird thing on mine was that if I honked the horn, the screen would come out of it for a few minutes and then return to flashing. The PDR cable is exactly the same and can be moved, but I would still just buy the replacement cable and use it since you know it is new and better. They are quite sturdy, and yes, you do need to remove the infotainment unit to gain full access. Test it and if it behaves correctly, button things back up and enjoy that you did it yourself and saved a LOT of money. I have not used the storage compartment since, even though I don't doubt that things will be fine with the better-quality cable. I hit the button while detailing and berated myself for doing so. lol
IA-SteveB My quirk comes with car shows and cruise in's. Park it in the sun and let it heat up and Shazam! the screen works perfectly until the car cools down and then back to scrolling until total blackout. I think I read about your horn fix in another post, tried it but it didn't work for me.
Thanks again for your advice and guidance!
pulled my dash out for a p3 gauge install. best thing I can pass on is do this with a warm interior. cold plastic tends to break and crack. the sound of the tabs being pulled free will make you cringe and swear your snapping plastic. solid grip working slowly and protecting the edges does wonders. take prior pics go in order of removal and you should be fine
Thanks to all for the suggestions, tips and comments! Question for all of those that have pulled the dash apart......I can understand the need to reach behind the various panels to reach the wire connectors and push/pull the locking tabs (those little things that NEVER release easily) on the connectors for removal. For reassembly, can you remove the switches from the panel(s) and feed the harness through the opening, attach the switch and push the switch back into the panel? Or are the switches screwed or somehow attached to the panels from the rear? I'm trying to cut my knuckle bleeding (on blood thinners!), part cursing, teeth gnashing session to one unpleasant event instead of two. Past experience with dashboard work reminds me that all pieces of sheet metal and plastic behind the outer trim are honed to a sharp edge by the manufacturer!
Thanks again!