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Old Dec 9, 2025 | 08:40 PM
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Default No blower

SO . ..havent even made a payment yet and still waiting on the appt for the Triple Flush, (said ASAP) Hop in the car to come home from work (where ive been working in the dark due to a power outage), not in a fantastic mood and im realizing the windows are fogging up. Ok, no biggie, got something set wrong, nope. Pull over, smear the window and start playing. Ok vent blendoors working, idle seems to change on a/c, . No blower motor ..Windows down in this 29° weather and soeed home to the comfort of my carport lol. Check fuse 6, good, swap fuse 6 clear top 40, nothing, cut it iff, let it sit, screamed at it, apologized and sweet talked it, restarted, nothing. I dont have the room or patience for this right now. Going to need to be a tommoro on my 30 minute lunch break deal because mornings are hectic, and again, no organized tools at the moment. Ill do some more looking tonight (this is all happening now, still in dirty work clothes, starving, kid screaming, need to shower and breath! But what do I need to be careful if, look for, etc tommoro when I tey the "unplug, replyg " method i just saw on 2 threads while sitting at a stoplight lol. Anyone remember what socket or torx or etc ill need off the top? Haha and DARNIT, this was supposed to be the RELIABLE one for the fleet, im ready to tear it down and do heads came and a procharger if its going to just be another PITA like the rest of my cars!!! Oh boy, what a day.. Just super super bummed right now..40k on the clock, 2015 Stingray A8
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Old Dec 9, 2025 | 10:04 PM
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Default Solved for now at least!

So relatively easy, the fact that I miraculously knew where my body clip tool (been a GM guy forever, I have many but knew where my old 30° Angled Stanley handled one was) as well as some Dialectric grease. Moved the car over a few feet, popped the hvac bl9wer cover off the bottom of the passenger footwell. 2 easy to spot circle head Xmas tree pushclips, pulled gently down and over, saw the blower motor clip, inspected with my phone camera to see exactky where/what type of release.; pulled plug, pins looked tight and in place, blower side looked good, added some dialectric and reconnected = boom heat kicks on. A+ gm, thought this 20 year newer car would have at least slightly better "things" lol . How dare I! But all good , 2 minutes, a clip lifter and some dielectric grease= $Free.Fiddy
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 09:15 AM
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What ever you do, do NOT put Dielectric grease on electrical connections. DIEelectric grease is designed to KILL electrical flow. It is an insulator. If you want a connector to have power flow, sand the two connections and tighten it. Sometimes things appear to work, but are still wrong.

Last edited by kodpkd; Dec 10, 2025 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 12:06 PM
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The blower motor on our 2017 quit working last August, turned out it was the electrical connector into the blower. An easy fix for the dealer but pricey- replaced the blower. A shop with lower labor rates might have been able to repair the connection at reasonable cost but this was fixed quickly and that's what I wanted.
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kodpkd
What ever you do, do NOT put Dielectric grease on electrical connections. DIEelectric grease is designed to KILL electrical flow. It is an insulator. If you want a connector to have power flow, sand the two connections and tighten it. Sometimes things appear to work, but are still wrong.
I don't know where people get this misinformation. I have used dielectric grease on everything from my boats and cars to A/C light bulbs for over 45 years. Never once had a problem. It works by creating a waterproof, insulating barrier around electrical connectors, sealing out moisture, dirt, and salt to prevent corrosion, without impeding electrical flow through the actual metal-to-metal contact points.
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 01:02 PM
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Fact: Dielectric grease is an insulator, it's designed to STOP electrical flow. Will it help keep water out of a connection, yes, BUT only when used on the outside of connection surfaces. On a car battery terminal, NEVER put it on the terminals before you connect them, only after you secure the connection surfaces. On a bulb, never on the connection surfaces, only on the isolating rubber surfaces. Sometimes things seem to work despite how they are used.
GOOD INFO:
Yes, dielectric grease is an insulator; it's a non-conductive silicone-based compound designed to protect electrical connections from moisture, dirt, and corrosion, preventing voltage leaks while allowing the actual metal-to-metal contact to carry the current once applied correctly. It should be applied to the outside of the connection (like inside a spark plug boot or on battery terminals after tightening) to seal, not between the mating metal surfaces where it could impede conductivity if applied too thickly.

Last edited by kodpkd; Dec 10, 2025 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 02:46 PM
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Ideally you only want to put the grease on the outside and avoid putting it between connections. It is made to protect connections, not make them better. ALSO, be careful SANDING connections because, depending on the type, you can remove material, thus creating a gap and worsening conductivity.

That said, glad the OP got it fixed. I know the feeling and instead of driving it off a cliff, he had patience. Well done.
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Old Dec 10, 2025 | 03:08 PM
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Yes of course. Sanding only bolt on type of connections, not the plug-in type.
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Old Dec 11, 2025 | 08:31 AM
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I saw a thread/video/something years ago regarding this issue. The lack of plug contact "preload" on the blades can cause a bad connection and eventually overheat and melt the plug. The fix is to use a very small flat head or pick and bend the contacts out a little on the plug end so they connection is tighter when you plug it back into the blower. I did it as a preventative measure.
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Old Dec 13, 2025 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kodpkd
What ever you do, do NOT put Dielectric grease on electrical connections. DIEelectric grease is designed to KILL electrical flow. It is an insulator. If you want a connector to have power flow, sand the two connections and tighten it. Sometimes things appear to work, but are still wrong.
The way I see it is, there's no way that particular area doesnt see tons of condensation and moisture, putting dialectric around there connection to help"seal" a "not really weatherpack" connector can do absolutely nothing but GOOD. Quick backstory- Im an Elite Premier VolvoGroup Technician, Expert Mack, and have enough random lower tier Masters certs to fill a small drawer in my largest toolbox. I know exactly what youre saying, and perhaps I should have clarified A LOT better being that theres a real possibility someone reads my post, goes and smears a glob od DG inside the pins lol. So MUCH APPRECIATED, and stellar catch on my Faux Pa!. Thank you good sir! May be new to C7 Corvettes, but not new to the game. Same bolt, different location is how I see it on most aspects of wrenching. That being said, these new 24v systems ive been dealing with recently at my day job are a real PITA!!
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Old Dec 13, 2025 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by frankbicknell
I don't know where people get this misinformation. I have used dielectric grease on everything from my boats and cars to A/C light bulbs for over 45 years. Never once had a problem. It works by creating a waterproof, insulating barrier around electrical connectors, sealing out moisture, dirt, and salt to prevent corrosion, without impeding electrical flow through the actual metal-to-metal contact points.
Yeah, my father owned a gargantuan Marina on the Merrimack River outside Boston, a LOT of cases of DG were used lol enough on a daily basis for feelings to probably get hurt here haha. But all jokes aside, DG is a part of daily life at Mack Trucks/Volvogroup for me
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