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Searching for where in the back of the C7, near the battery, there is a "small metal stud" or bolt on the body, suitable for grounding the negative clamp for charging the battery. This, according to ChatGPT (so could be confused). Photo would be even better, because Chat says "located just forward of the battery, slightly toward the passenger side." If not, where is the best place to ground the negative clamp? Thanks.
I guess I am confused, why not just the negative terminal of the battery?
Most car manuals say to NEVER do that. Has something to do with sensitive electronics, where a spike could cause damage. Truth is, I've often done that also, but in this case, I don't want to take the chance.
I have a friend that used that method for years and never had a problem. He has moved on to a C8, but is super **** about his stuff. I've got the connectors to wire it up, just never have gotten around to it. I could see where jumping the car using that point could be an issue. But attaching a trickle charger hasn't been a problem (no warranty expressed or implied) for the four or five guys that are/were using that method.
Well, since the body on a C7 isn’t metal, a “stud” on the body would be useless for charging the battery. ChatGPT says the base Stingray has a rear sway bar, so be careful believing what it says.
If you’re using a battery tender just use the lighter socket near the battery, that’s what it’s there for.
Well, since the body on a C7 isn’t metal, a “stud” on the body would be useless for charging the battery. ChatGPT says the base Stingray has a rear sway bar, so be careful believing what it says.
If you’re using a battery tender just use the lighter socket near the battery, that’s what it’s there for.
This is for an actual charger hookup, not a tender.
There is a very small bolt with a nut on the body, to the right of the battery, but it's quite smaller than you'd expect. Maybe that's connected to ground, but the implication on the "ground stud/bolt" is that it's connected to ground/body metal, not the fiberglass.
Never heard that before. I'd use the negative battery post if I wasn't using a battery tender. That way the return current goes right to the battery negative terminal and NOT through sensitive electronics. ChatGPT has it backwards.
Here’s what mine looks like. There is no “stud” connected to the body or anything else, just the cable from the negative terminal on the battery. Why not connect the charger negative cable right there?
Never heard that before. I'd use the negative battery post if I wasn't using a battery tender. That way the return current goes right to the battery negative terminal and NOT through sensitive electronics. ChatGPT has it backwards.
Not just ChatGPT--but I agree, need to take that AI with a grain of salt--but like mentioned above, almost every car manual and charger instruction manual states to connect the negative clamp onto a grounded metal position on the car. And yet, I've also used the neg battery terminal in the past. I guess I could unbolt the two lug terminals, and charge the battery as if it were just independent of the car.
The owner’s manual doesn’t address charging, but it does address jump starting. It says to connect both cables directly to the battery posts. If it’s safe to jump start that way it’s safe to charge that way. Quit overthinking this and quit using ChatGPT.
The standard ''connect to the frame'' advice I believe came from the ''old days'' to protect from sparks and setting vapor fumes on fire. I know you don't want to hear it obviously, but just break down and buy a Battery Tender Plus and be done with it.
The owner’s manual doesn’t address charging, but it does address jump starting. It says to connect both cables directly to the battery posts. If it’s safe to jump start that way it’s safe to charge that way. Quit overthinking this and quit using ChatGPT.
Wow, has anyone ever heard the adage, "the path of least resistance"?
The path of least resistance to the negative plate of the battery IS the negative terminal of the battery. All ground paths to that terminal, like the frame and other ground cables have a resistance associated with them. You may not be able to measure the resistance value of the frame or the cables with your Fluke meter, but a resistance value is still there.
So for high current loads like charging the battery or load testing, I always use the negative terminal, the path of least resistance. As for the maintainer, the provided port is perfect for this service.
I trust my experience over a consensus driven algorithm. As Steve_R says, I try not to overthink this kind of stuff.
Since the C7 battery is in the back, and has extremely long leads to fuse boxes and the like you just use the terminals. In most other cars you can use the positive terminal and the "ground loop cable" (aka the other end of the small cable that connects the battery to the frame) as jump points but the negative cable on the C7 doesn't connect to the frame, because the frame is not ground.
It's not on the body, it's just below and behind the relay box under the hood. There was also a ground nearby. I'll have to ask him to show it to me again.
Ok Ok. Just a few points:
1. I don't need a trickle charger. I drive the car at least once a week. I live in SoCal.
2. My 2017 has never had a battery replacement, but it didn't start the other day. I jumped it (yes, used both terminals), and it read 12.8v not being on (14.3v while idling).
3. It's losing about 0.06-0.08v a day, which is not great, so I clearly need a new battery after 8 years. But I wanted to charge it for a few hours using a charger to see if it would go higher than 12.8. Likely not. But wanted to do it as safe as possible. And I agree with Calvins-Post #12: older cars could have gases that would ignite with a spark--main reason to ground away on the frame.
4. ChatGPT is not always correct. I'll use Claude or CoPilot from now on. Kidding! But one does have to take A.I. with a grain of salt. (Hmmm. I'll have to ask Chat how much a grain of salt weighs.)
Thanks for all the input.
Where's the stud?
