When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks to @9sec for putting up his review on these headers, I decided to take a chance given his experience. I just received these last weekend and got around to taking some measurements and pictures.
Flanges are 3/8"
Welds look decent
There is in fact a merge spike
The slip fit slots on the extensions you can tell are laser cut
I was surprised (or maybe didn't read) that the headers came with MLS gaskets and metal zip ties. Also came with two 8"X12.5" fiberglass thermal sheets that turn into about a 2" dia sleeve. Also came with new donut gaskets to midpipe.
The midpipe bolts with springs on them was a nice touch also.
Plan is to get them loosely installed to confirm fitment and make any alterations needed. Remove them and wrap them in HeatShield Products Header Armor material as a custom install with SS safety wire.
For $600 I'm already happy with the purchase. As I go through the install I will continue to add photos and opinions.
Last edited by smitty2919; Mar 1, 2026 at 03:23 PM.
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Looking forward to your full review of these headers. At some point I may want to install headers on my C7 and info on the install of various packages is welcome.
I currently have a AWE catless x pipe behind the stock manifolds/downpipes. I custom made an axle back a while ago I will run for now to see how it sounds. If the gas fume smell is too much and or it's a little too rowdy, I can swap on my stock midpipe and NPP system.
Axleback on the car is a NPP system modified into what you see below:
Last edited by smitty2919; Mar 2, 2026 at 08:44 AM.
the bolt spring combo prolly wont fit. the bolts weren't long enough on mine so you either ditch the springs or get longer bolts. I was watching some instagram yesterday and found a fantastic shop that wraps headers in fiberglass then bends and tacks the dimpled thermal sheet around the primaries and collectors for a true heat shield custom setup. looks simply amazing. was ready to yank mine off and send them out then I see the shop is in Poland!!!!! DOH!! hard to justify shipping and wrap costs for a 600$ set of headers lol. man did they look nice though
the bolt spring combo prolly wont fit. the bolts weren't long enough on mine so you either ditch the springs or get longer bolts. I was watching some instagram yesterday and found a fantastic shop that wraps headers in fiberglass then bends and tacks the dimpled thermal sheet around the primaries and collectors for a true heat shield custom setup. looks simply amazing. was ready to yank mine off and send them out then I see the shop is in Poland!!!!! DOH!! hard to justify shipping and wrap costs for a 600$ set of headers lol. man did they look nice though
I saw those types of applications and my answer to that was to buy some HeatShield Products Header armor and do it myself with safety wire. Not as good as the tac method but better than header wrap IMO.
I did this on my C5Z headers and midpipe. The install instructions says NOT to fully wrap the pipe, but to leave a 1" gap to let it breathe.
I saw those types of applications and my answer to that was to buy some HeatShield Products Header armor and do it myself with safety wire. Not as good as the tac method but better than header wrap IMO.
I did this on my C5Z headers and midpipe. The install instructions says NOT to fully wrap the pipe, but to leave a 1" gap to let it breathe.
since your only about 300 miles away ill drop my headers off this winter and you can make a little side coin.
since your only about 300 miles away ill drop my headers off this winter and you can make a little side coin.
Let me get a handle on mine and if you're interested I'm sure we can work on something. As of now I have 2 rolls of material about 20ft worth ($300 ordered from Summit). When I did the C5, I went though ~3 rolls of material for headers AND midpipe. I'm not 100% how to quantify this from a heat reduction standpoint, but looking at videos on YT tests and figuring "something is better than nothing" is my approach
I'm really curious on your axel back set up for sound.
I like the Helmholtz resonators you added. and I'm curious how it is for tone and Drone.
The "loud" version would be similar to stock NPP since that is the exact piping I kept essentially a muffler bypass. The "quiet" version is a tad louder than stock and does drone more than stock NPP even with Helmholtz tubes, but it's at my max tolerable limit for drone as it sits.
I'm 50/50 it will still be OK once headers go on with no cats. I have been fabbing up a NPP system with V-bands to make removal easier.
Adding a V-band right after the midpipe slip fit connection (which is still a slip fit with band clamp) will keep me from having to remove the midpipe if I want to take the axleback out. You can't remove a stock system because if you slide it rearward the pipe will hit the rear cradle before it comes out of the midpipe.
Not header related, but from about 5 pm to 9pm I got the mipipe oud, DS and PS downpipe bolts removed and the PS manifold/downpipe removed from the car.
Key notes.
-Screw that PS manifold shield and how NOT easy it is to simply unbolt it from the manifold and pull it out
-There is no reason to have the manifold to downpipe studs so damn long. This keeps you from being able to unbolt the downpipes and drop them down to pull them out. They get hung up on the 3 mile long studs and hits the front subframe.
-Doing the "double wrench" method from the wheel well to get to down pipe bolts worked well.
-Slightly annoying having to drain the oil and pull the dry sump lines just for header install. Would have been nice if they rerouted the lines to allow exhaust removal.
-The 02 sensor mounting/removal process is also slightly annoying how the connectors are and the space you have to get to them. But patience prevailed and no wires were ripped out of the car.
Tonight we continue with the DS. Downpipe bolts are already off/loose. But again, downpipe is hung up on the studs/subframe. Onwards!
Do the manifolds and downpipes not just drop down as one piece?
Nope. You have to angle the manifold almost 45* to remove it.
When removing PS manifold the bolt behind the alternator felt a little funny and somewhat tightened up halfway out…I sprayed some WD 40 and got it out to see this
Yeaaa aluminum should not remain on the threads…about an hour laterI think (HOPE) the threads were cleaned up and hold.
Progress tonight. Got everything removed and did initial test fit of the headers and extensions to my AWE midpipe.
There is tons of room to everything and slide in from the bottom. No need to remove steering column.
However I’m not happy with how the extensions mate up the the midpipe. The angle/leg lengths are a little off. I have a plan to extend the extensions about 1” each should do the trick. These are just simple 30* bends with the proper stock 2 bolt flange so I’m not worried about it.
Overall I’m still real happy with them. If this extension modification is the only thing needing fixed, I’m fine with that. They seem to tuck up high and no issues for fitment.
Tomorrow is “wrapping day” to get them all cozy in their insulation. Then get them bolted on “for good” so I can finalize extension tweaks.