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Hey everyone, I did a couple billet gas cap for a friend and it turned out really nice so I'm going to do a batch if enough people want them. Here's pics of the one I just finished If you want one chime in or shoot me an email or pm and let me know what you want so I can get a count. They are going to be $60.00. If there enough interest I'm thinking finishing options will be as follows:
Polished with Clear Anodizing
Red, Blue & Gunmetal Anodizing
Black & Grey Metallic Powder Coat
If anything else is more popular is fine with me but in order to get any anodized finishes minimum numbers need to be met. Let me know what you think. The flag pattern Hydrodip is available it's painted white dipped then painted with automotive clear.
Just wanted to share a little bit of feedback and some great photos of different options installed from the latest customers:
Originally Posted by Must_Have_Z
Just wanted to give Tom a big thank you for completing my lower box so quickly. Tom informed me that if I send in my box, I'll jump to the front of the line and get an upgraded version back quickly. And he was right. It only took about 5-6 business days total including shipping both ways to get my new shifter box. I'm not sure why everyone doesn't send theirs in right away instead of waiting for a core refund. Your car won't be down that long!
Here's a picture. Everything is clean, tight and smooth (just like any good box should be am I right?). Hoping to install it soon. Thanks again Tom!
Originally Posted by BMF_C6
I have to thank Tom & TMODSCUSTOMS for one of the best mods yet to my 2005 Base Coupe - the new 5% shifter is amazing and I have to say after years of driving this car while it was my son's, I have always wondered if all vette shifters were as clunky as the one in this car, it had a B&M short throw in it from the previous owner.
Boy was I wrong!!! - I have now learned how absolutely smooth and accurate the shifting can be ---- should have done this years ago!!!!! The best mod yet!!!
This is what a sports/super car is supposed to feel like and I love the look, also anyone questioning the stick spin - I can tell you it does not make 1 bit of difference - it feels so natural and the precision compared to the way it was is just amazing. I also LOVE the new look - it looks so bad ***!!!
If you are waiting for yours just let me tell you it is SO WORTH the wait........if you can do like I did and pull the box out and send it to Tom the wait is nothing, if you have a new shifter and waiting to install it - it takes ~ an hour or two - get it done and get the cores back to help Tom satisfy all the others.......what the hell are you waiting for - this car is fun as hell to drive now!!!
Thank You Tom - you answered every one of my emails and questions I had and you have done an amazing job at realizing a problem and creating a solution!!!!
I put the lower box in my car a couple weeks back. The original box had actually broken where the upper shifter bolts in- I assume the previous owner had overtorqued it. With the existing Hurst shifter I can say this mod is incredibly better than anything I've driven with a stock box. I would put it on the same level as the MGW shifter (with lower box) I had in my old car. I believe my Hurst shifter has a slightly longer throw than the MGW, which is also nice just for the added leverage.
All in all- a very worthwhile mod.
Originally Posted by imflyinbiya
These things are beautiful! Just got mine installed tonight. Love it! Great guy to deal with as well... I took my box out and sent in as was in a time crunch. Install took no time at all, and the car shifts like butter with a positive engagement. The spinning **** will time time to get used to, but I actually like how it feels when you are holding it firmly and it self adjusts as you shift (if that makes any sense at all!).
Anyway, bravo to a kickass product and hell of a nice guy!
I opted for the 20% version, here are some pictures:
Shifter: $150.00
Box: $145.00
Core(if needed) $100.00
Core Charge will be refunded when I recieve your old box back. Only if your core is returned within 30 days.
Cores not returned within 30 days will forfeit their core Charge, please return your core in a timely manner, everyone in line will appreciate it.
Please send me an email and I will be happy to discuss all the available options and help everyone decide on a one to one basis what options you will like best.
Here's some of the Send-In's and Cores from this week, coming in they can be in any shape as long as they are not cracked they are usually fine. They get degreased, scrubbed and media blasted before being machined, reblasted, cleaned for the final time and assembled. I get new boxes, old nasty boxes and everything in between. They are all refinished and better than new when I get do e with them.
Getting caught up soon! I'm hoping to get to the point where I will always have cores available and ready to ship We're not there yet but we are getting closer. Thank you everyone who is waiting, I'll have your parts as soon as possible Working to streamline the process and get every order filled as quickly as possible
one of the most overlooked parts in the shifter assembly is the linkage. The shifter linkage has two movable joints, one on each end. With age and milage the ends of the linkage become more and more sloppy. When you add the slop from each end of the linkage and multiply it by the length of the shifter itself it results in just about all the slop you have in your shifter. Your always going to have a tiny bit of slop , a few tho; thousandths of an inch, but once you get rid of the slop in the shifter and the box the linkage is the only thing left. By adding my box and shifter and eliminating the slop in the linkage your going to have the absolute best, most precise and direct feeling shifter you can get in a c5, c6 or c7 corvette.
new universal (left) factory fore end (right) new universal (bottom) factory end (top)
here's a quick video showing a factory linkage in pretty good shape and the new universals.
How does your shifter compare to something like the MGW?
Well first off, I think it's about a hundred bucks cheaper, but that's not what's important. Both versions of my shifters are the same in every way and feel besides the reduction ratio. They feel the same except the 5% version has a little longer and softer throw, (you will not find a shifter that is easier or smoother to move thru the gears). The 20% version is almost as easy but it gives up a little bit of ease, making it a tiny bit harder to move ( it's the second easiest shifter to move thru the gears you will ever find.) for a little shorter throw. I built shifters during testing with travel reductions from zero to 50%. What I found was that the tradeoff was not equal past a certain point. When you shorten the throw the stick gets harder to move; that's the tradeoff taking place. When I say shorten the throw were not simply shortening the height of the shaft, this is done by changing the distances between the pivots inside the shifter. When you shorten the throw beyond 20% you are getting the shorter throw but you are not getting an equally increasing tradeoff of force required to move the stick. It's like a Bell curve, the decrease in travel is accomplished but it comes with an increase in force that is much higher than what you were previously getting up to about 20%. It reaches a point around 20% where it gets much harder to move and not a lot shorter, not an equal trade off. MGW being about 35% reduction is definitely has a shorter throw, but I believe it comes at too high of a cost. People who go from their shifter to mine prefer mine because it is easier to move and not " notchy". In contrast, I make my shifter with 20% reduction because that is the point I found the reduction of throw to be the highest while still being very easy to move. I think they probably want to get every last bit out of theirs, make it as short as possible so they don't mind it being a little harder to move thru the gears I took the opposite approach; I use a bearing rather than a cup \ ball styled main pivot, my goal was to get the smoothest, most precise, slop-free shifter I could get. Not necessarily the shortest throw "short throw shifter" . The 5% version I made for this exact reason; some people just want a nice smooth shifter, they don't want to deal with a shifter that is geared towards the track, notchy, hard to get thru the gears, they just want a smoother, tighter shifter; that's the 5% shifter.. The 20% being a shorter throw is more like theirs, or any other short shifter, the throw is similar, but being smooth direct and precise was still the important part for me.
I believe my shifter is about a hundred bucks cheaper. Don't get me wrong, I think mine is the best, but if you don't think you'll like that the shaft can rotate, or you want to run a factory ****, if your not going to buy mine I only recommend the MGW, I wouldn't buy anything else. Either way you go you will not be disappointed, they are both great. One of the major things that sets my shifters and MGW's apart from all the rest of the shifter out there is that ours both address the lower box. If you do not address the lower box you will most likely not be happy with your shifter. Maybe that was too harsh, but at the very least you will be leaving a lot on the table, the lower box is responsible for at least half of what sucks about your factory shifter. A ton of my customers are running the older MGW with my lower box, that is probably your best buy. If you go this route you can still run the factory ****, if you would like, personally I don't like the factory **** anyways. Remember, my shifter is threaded 9/16-18, and because of the bearing the shaft is able to rotate, I have come to like that it rotates, but I can't say that you will.
Let me know what you think and if you have more questions please feel free to ask me anything.
Here's the most recent shifter linkage I've done. Compare it to the factory ends, much better in every way absolutely no slop. Compare it to your linkage and you'll see the difference feel the difference in your shifter and thank me later.
Last edited by TMODcustoms; 01-21-2019 at 06:18 PM.
Reason: New pics
Tom what is the charge for doing the shifter rod modification? How does it work we send ours in and you send it back or you have cores etc.
I can have one shipped in five days usually Price is $250.00. There is an additional core charge of $100.00. If you send your linkage in I can usually have it back in the mail within three or four days. No core charge if you send your linkage in ahead of time, otherwise core charge will be refunded within a week of receiving your core.
Since were talking about linkages I thought I'd share these pics. Replacing \ Upgrading the linkage is a great thing to do when your dropping the gearbox \ tube, so are the couplers. This is what happens to the rubber couplers inside your torque tube. It's sometimes overlooked but something you definitely want to replace while your doing a clutch, any gearbox service that you have it out and in an automatic as well. These bushings are one of the most common causes of vibration in the shifter, you can only imagine how much rubber debris is tumbling around inside your tube as it breaks down over time.
I'm getting a new logo made pretty soon, so fancy. If it's cool would people like it engraved on the box or the shifter? I guess we would have to figure out if it's cool or not...
11-17-2018, 12:09 AM
