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160 Degree Thermostat

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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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Default 160 Degree Thermostat

Has anyone here used a lower temp thermostat on the new LT1? I see Lingenfelter is using them in their packages:

https://www.lingenfelter.com/engine-...cid-lt1-550-hp
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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Weapon X has one for sale also. The picture looks old school.....does the LT1 use a regular thermostat?
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 01:58 PM
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I'm looking everywhere in the docs for the repair/replacement guide for the t-stat and damned if I can't find anything...
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 06:01 PM
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After having a 160° in my C6 for a few years, I took it out and put in a 186° from Stant so I've been down that road. I am not in favor of the 160° thermostats.

My experience has been with the 160° 'stat, the coolant runs over a wider temperature range than a stock 'stat. My C6 with the 160° 'stat would run 180° on the highway then 220°+ in stop 'n go traffic while the stock 'stat will run 207° - 220°. Maintaining a constant coolant temperature is better for the engine and cooling system than a 40°+ swing. A 160° does nothing to help reduce peak coolant temps because both the stock and 160° 'stats are fully open.

However, reducing the coolant temp down indirectly reduces under hood temperature which lowers the Intake Air Temp (IAT), which is a good thing for power because it will make for increase air density going into the cylinder.

But I would rather use a more direct way to reduce IAT temps such as insulating the air bridge and routing cool air to the filter.

I drove around my neighborhood while running HP Tuners scanner over the weekend and saw 125°+ IAT on a 82° day. That's going to be a problem in the middle of Texas in August on a 105° day.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Theta
I'm looking everywhere in the docs for the repair/replacement guide for the t-stat and damned if I can't find anything...
Look up water pump outlet. Looks like the outlet contains the thermostat. That's what I have in GM service information on it. Should bolt to the "engine coolant manifold" which is what the outlet, water pump, and hoses all go to.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RussM05
After having a 160° in my C6 for a few years, I took it out and put in a 186° from Stant so I've been down that road. I am not in favor of the 160° thermostats.

My experience has been with the 160° 'stat, the coolant runs over a wider temperature range than a stock 'stat. My C6 with the 160° 'stat would run 180° on the highway then 220°+ in stop 'n go traffic while the stock 'stat will run 207° - 220°. Maintaining a constant coolant temperature is better for the engine and cooling system than a 40°+ swing. A 160° does nothing to help reduce peak coolant temps because both the stock and 160° 'stats are fully open.

However, reducing the coolant temp down indirectly reduces under hood temperature which lowers the Intake Air Temp (IAT), which is a good thing for power because it will make for increase air density going into the cylinder.

But I would rather use a more direct way to reduce IAT temps such as insulating the air bridge and routing cool air to the filter.

I drove around my neighborhood while running HP Tuners scanner over the weekend and saw 125°+ IAT on a 82° day. That's going to be a problem in the middle of Texas in August on a 105° day.
You have to reprogram the fans to come on at lower temps. You can do this through HPT. This helps hold them temps down, otherwise, yes, it will eventually rise to normal temps (since that's when the fans came on stock).
You can also put in a bigger/more efficient radiator.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 11:43 PM
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From what I see just driving around these cars seem to be more prone to heat soak than the C6.

I think that a lower stat with the cooling fans set to go on at a lower temperature will only marginally help. I see the air intake tube in the direct path of radiator heat.

The C6 had a shorter run near the radiator and the C7 seems to travel all along the radiator. Heat rises and whomever ever designs a cold air intake will have to find a way to insulate the tube as it travels along the radiator.

Whatever GM utilized to keep the console cool, should also be used for the intake tract
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
You have to reprogram the fans to come on at lower temps. You can do this through HPT. This helps hold them temps down, otherwise, yes, it will eventually rise to normal temps (since that's when the fans came on stock).
You can also put in a bigger/more efficient radiator.
Correct. I tuned my C6 using HP Tuners. I did adjust the fan duty cycle but there are still issues but I understand.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 12:59 AM
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Default Opposite issue

This threads reminded me that I may have a bad thermostat. It takes me about a good 20 miles at freeway speed to get the temp anywhere near 200. (ambient outside temp 70 degrees). I have 1500 miles on it and been that way since new. Anyone else?
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Larry99
This threads reminded me that I may have a bad thermostat. It takes me about a good 20 miles at freeway speed to get the temp anywhere near 200. (ambient outside temp 70 degrees). I have 1500 miles on it and been that way since new. Anyone else?
are looking at your oil or water temp gauge?
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
are looking at your oil or water temp gauge?
Oops, better put my reading glasses on. Thanks.
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