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Hey Guys My 2014 Stingray with just over 1K miles is having issues. The first is a intermittent "hard" start, where the car will grind/turn over for 10-15 seconds before finally starting. The second is a grind or loud clunk when changing from first to second, sometimes third gear when cold. It USUALLY doesn't do it when warm but sometimes it does. The final issue is with the NPP exhaust. When I have the Sound Managet turned "off" the exhaust still goes into the "quieter" modes until I reset it to the "Track" mode every time. It is supposed to stay in the straight through mode when the system is in the "off" position of the sound management position. The Dealership is not being very helpful in resolving these issues since the don't happen all the time. Just curious, nayone with the smae issues? Thanks in advance for your help!
10-15 seconds to start is a long time. 3-5 not so much if it's really cold out and the car has been sitting. This is a normal thing when it comes to DI cars and has been discussed here in multiple threads.
The trans will be tougher to shift when the car is cold and somewhat clunky. Especially 1st-2nd and moreso when it's really cold out. Also discussed in several threads.
Even with NPP set to off, the valves still work to an extent and you will experience moments of reduced exhaust noise. That said, if the car is in Eco mode, you will really notice the change in exhaust when it goes into V4 mode regardless of the NPP settings. Also discussed in several threads.
If you are really concerned I'd contact another dealer. I'd also set a stop watch to see if it really takes 15 seconds to start. If that is true, it sounds excessive but I could be wrong.
15 seconds is an absolute eternity for a new car/motor/starter. I mean seriously... if you sit there and crank on a starter for 15 seconds (or in this case, the car does), something is seriously wrong. 2-4 seconds is on the high end (as slief said, whip out a timer app or stopwatch).
15 seconds is an absolute eternity for a new car/motor/starter. I mean seriously... if you sit there and crank on a starter for 15 seconds (or in this case, the car does), something is seriously wrong. 2-4 seconds is on the high end (as slief said, whip out a timer app or stopwatch).
Since the car only does this at random, it is hard to have a watch handy every time it acts up....but the last time we were ready and it actually took 13 to 14 seconds of continuous grinding before it actually started! Thanks for your input,
10-15 seconds to start is a long time. 3-5 not so much if it's really cold out and the car has been sitting. This is a normal thing when it comes to DI cars and has been discussed here in multiple threads.
The trans will be tougher to shift when the car is cold and somewhat clunky. Especially 1st-2nd and moreso when it's really cold out. Also discussed in several threads.
Even with NPP set to off, the valves still work to an extent and you will experience moments of reduced exhaust noise. That said, if the car is in Eco mode, you will really notice the change in exhaust when it goes into V4 mode regardless of the NPP settings. Also discussed in several threads.
If you are really concerned I'd contact another dealer. I'd also set a stop watch to see if it really takes 15 seconds to start. If that is true, it sounds excessive but I could be wrong.
When I was refering to the car having these issues when it is "cold" I meant that it had not been "running" that day. We are talking temperatures between 40 and 55 degrees,
Actually timed the long start time at 13 to 14 seconds last time it acted up. It is hard to have a watch or timing method handy every time we start the car, but the last time, we were ready!
On the transmission issue, again not really that cold! Maybe 40 degrees at the coldest, and it actually grinds going into second and sometimes third gear.
For the NPP exhaust, as it changes back to touring when you turn the car oof, the exhaust resets to touring also, it show stay in the :Track" mode when the sound management is turned off.
Thanks very much for your help. Hopefully I can find a more concerned Dealership than the one I have been working with.
We are talking temperatures between 40 and 55 degrees,
On the transmission issue, again not really that cold! Maybe 40 degrees at the coldest, and it actually grinds going into second and sometimes third gear.
For your 1-2 shift, this is pretty typical at those temperatures. When ambient is below 50°, I do a 1-3 upshift until the transmission warms up.
I have owned several GDI cars and none had noticeable starting delays. I have owned a couple of HPCR (high pressure common rail) diesel pickups which is like the gas version on steroids (rail pressure runs in the 30,000 PSI range) and like their gasoline counterpart the injectors won't receive a "fire" command until rail pressure is sufficient. Long crank/delayed starting with diesel results when there is slight leak in the fuel system that allows fuel to drain back while sitting and cranking is lengthy until the air is purged and rail pressure is built. Note that both times it happened to me there was no actual fuel leak because it was in the low pressure side and sealed when running however air came in while sitting. Perhaps you have an intermittent drain back when the car is sitting? I imagine a scan tool would display rail pressure while cranking if you have access to one.
Like everyone else stated, 10-15 seconds is a very long time for a starter to be engaged. I would suggest you record a video of every time you start the car so that you can show your dealer that it is a issue and does happen. As always, when you bring it in the shop it will never do it.
Like everyone else stated, 10-15 seconds is a very long time for a starter to be engaged. I would suggest you record a video of every time you start the car so that you can show your dealer that it is a issue and does happen. As always, when you bring it in the shop it will never do it.
X2.. Also take your car to a different dealership, some chevy dealerships are top notch while others, not so much.... It is worth the drive,a good corvette Tech makes all the difference.
2. Control Climate DOES NOT WORK.
a. A/C on set to 68 degrees and hot air comes out the drivers lower vent.
b. Set temp to 78 degrees, outside is 50 degrees and cold air comes out the top vent.
c. One minute the temp is okay inside then it is either to cold or to hot.
d. And there is more.
3. The setting either for the heads-up, dash, ride control changes every so often on its own. Not while running. Park the car turn the car off, go back to the car start it up and things are changed.
4. Sometimes you get into the car and the radio does not work. Turn the car off and back on then it will work.
5. Sometimes the volume control on the steering wheel does not work.
6. Sometime the control on the steering wheel to change the radio stations will not work.
In my opinion the car has major programing issues.
The second is a grind or loud clunk when changing from first to second, sometimes third gear when cold.
Originally Posted by RaPlump
Grinding when shifting from first to second.
Crap. I didn't want to hear this. Hey, did this start to happen since day 1, or after 'x' miles? That was the main reason I recently got rid of the '12 GS. And yes, it was doing it since day 1, but bought the car sight unseen in CA and shipped it to TX (NEVER again). Both GM and Tremec were well aware of those issues, so why the hell they didn't do anything about it for the C7? Are they still using that crappy 2nd gear design with side teeth, rather than straight?
Anyway, if this issue developed after some miles, it'd probably be a deal-breaker for me, because that means even if I personally test drive the car before closing the deal, it could happen later on. Hope both of the cases above happened since new, and then I could catch it with a test drive.
Crap. I didn't want to hear this. Hey, did this start to happen since day 1, or after 'x' miles? That was the main reason I recently got rid of the '12 GS. And yes, it was doing it since day 1, but bought the car sight unseen in CA and shipped it to TX (NEVER again). Both GM and Tremec were well aware of those issues, so why the hell they didn't do anything about it for the C7? Are they still using that crappy 2nd gear design with side teeth, rather than straight?
Anyway, if this issue developed after some miles, it'd probably be a deal-breaker for me, because that means even if I personally test drive the car before closing the deal, it could happen later on. Hope both of the cases above happened since new, and then I could catch it with a test drive.
Sorry, but when the ambient is below 50 degrees, my C7 does it (yes, brand new), just like my '12 GS too. When trans is warm, all is fine. And it's not just GM. Take a look at the Mustang forums, and Viper forums. Every car that uses the Tremec 6 or 7 speed gear box has this symptom with a cold gear box.
This is no big deal for me, as I just do a 1-3 shift until the trans warms up a little.
Last edited by cam30era; Apr 26, 2014 at 08:38 AM.
I have 2014 Corvette Z51.
2. Control Climate DOES NOT WORK.
a. A/C on set to 68 degrees and hot air comes out the drivers lower vent.
b. Set temp to 78 degrees, outside is 50 degrees and cold air comes out the top vent.
c. One minute the temp is okay inside then it is either to cold or to hot.
d. And there is more.
Some of what you are experiencing is an intentional part of the climate control, it will go into what was known as "bi-level mode" on the older manually operated systems. Depending upon outside ambient temperature and what the sunlight sensor in the cabin is reporting it will choose to provide warm air to the lower level when the outside temperature is low even if desired cabin temp is set fairly low and with strong light hitting the cabin it will provide cooled air to the upper area to offset solar heating even if the desired cabin temperature is warm.
This is a basic feature of GM auto climate control for many years, sometimes the implementation is not to the liking of some individuals and the personality of the system does vary some across models. If your unit is acting erratically then it is quite possible one of the sensors is not functioning properly.