Could someone explain Elite Engineering's new catch can?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 313
Likes: 44
From: Little Rock AR
Could someone explain Elite Engineering's new catch can?
I received Elites new E2 system & going thru the install, I come across this issue. Elite wants you to drill a hole just in front of the hose clamp that attaches to the intake to the throttle body. Then they want you to screw a plastic 3/8" NPT barbed hose fitting directly into the hole you drilled into the intake's rubber. I don't know how this is suppose to stay put while your driving your way to an oil free paradise, but this setup isn't strong enough to stay in place while you connect the other end of the hose to the catch can?!?!
I thought I was missing a bulkhead fitting or flange but, I emailed Elite regarding this fitting & they agreed it should be screwed directly into the rubber... Surely there is something missing here?
Wormwood
I thought I was missing a bulkhead fitting or flange but, I emailed Elite regarding this fitting & they agreed it should be screwed directly into the rubber... Surely there is something missing here?
Wormwood
Last edited by Wormwood; May 30, 2014 at 04:13 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,834
Likes: 91
From: California
I received Elites new E2 system & going thru the install, I come across this issue. Elite wants you to drill a hole just in front of the hose clamp that attaches to the intake to the throttle body. Then they want you to screw a plastic 3/8" NPT barbed hose fitting directly into the hole you drilled into the intake's rubber. I don't know how this is suppose to stay put while your driving your way to an oil free paradise, but this setup isn't strong enough to stay in place while you connect the other end of the hose to the catch can?!?!
I thought I was missing a bulkhead fitting or flange but, I emailed Elite regarding this fitting & they agreed it should be screwed directly into the rubber... Surely there is something missing here?
Wormwood
I thought I was missing a bulkhead fitting or flange but, I emailed Elite regarding this fitting & they agreed it should be screwed directly into the rubber... Surely there is something missing here?
Wormwood
I have the aFe intake which is a hard plastic and could work, but I'm going to look for a better solution this weekend. I want to see if the stock fittings (the posts + push locks) are available as I'd rather install another one of those on my aFe than simply thread a plastic NPT into more plastic (that is not threaded).
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,875
Likes: 1,174
This is the single reason I've delayed my install. I have the aFe intake which is a hard plastic and could work, but I'm going to look for a better solution this weekend. I want to see if the stock fittings (the posts + push locks) are available as I'd rather install another one of those on my aFe than simply thread a plastic NPT into more plastic (that is not threaded).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,683
Likes: 1,247
From: NYC
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
I have a 2 line elite catch can from my C6. I was going to install it on my C7 now iI see they have the 3 port can. Do we need the 3rd port that goes into the air intake or will the old 2 port can work ?
Thanks George
Thanks George
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,641
Likes: 7
From: Beautiful CO
St. jude Donor '14
The Elite E2 2nd Exit port corrects the lack of evacuation anytime the throttle is opened more than 2/3 to WOT by using the suction present upstream of the throttle body (reversion pulses cancel any measurable vacuum inside the intake manifold at these throttle levels) so the PCV system at this time stops evacuating and pressure builds in the crankcase possibly pushing oil vapors backwards out the fresh side inlet allowing ingestion.
The barb you install into the inexpensive flexible coupler that attaches the throttle body to the air bridge, and since there is no pressure, and the coupler is flexible, there is no danger of leak or it coming loose. Try it and see.
Aside from the RX system, there is NO other PCV oil separating system that provides constant, proper crankcase evacuation at all operating levels.
I hope this helps
The barb you install into the inexpensive flexible coupler that attaches the throttle body to the air bridge, and since there is no pressure, and the coupler is flexible, there is no danger of leak or it coming loose. Try it and see.
Aside from the RX system, there is NO other PCV oil separating system that provides constant, proper crankcase evacuation at all operating levels.
I hope this helps
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 970
Likes: 299
From: Sierra Vista Arizona
Can you explain the best way to seat the hose barb connectors into the hose? Trying to install the "BEST" system....those barbs just dont want to go into the hose..can maybe get the first barb to seat but pushing the rest of the barbs into the hose to fully seat the connector seems impossible.
Also on the Clean Oil separator...now that its installed, when the vehicle requires an oil change I take it the dealership will have to be informed that it will need to reverse the cap install process to fill oil (i.e they will have to remove the hose from barb, unthread the barb from the separator and then do the 90 degree counter clockwise turn to remove the Clean Oil separator each time oil needs to be changed/added to the vehicle)?
Also on the Clean Oil separator...now that its installed, when the vehicle requires an oil change I take it the dealership will have to be informed that it will need to reverse the cap install process to fill oil (i.e they will have to remove the hose from barb, unthread the barb from the separator and then do the 90 degree counter clockwise turn to remove the Clean Oil separator each time oil needs to be changed/added to the vehicle)?
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,014
Likes: 12,398
From: NE South Carolina
Can you explain the best way to seat the hose barb connectors into the hose? Trying to install the "BEST" system....those barbs just dont want to go into the hose..can maybe get the first barb to seat but pushing the rest of the barbs into the hose to fully seat the connector seems impossible.
Also on the Clean Oil separator...now that its installed, when the vehicle requires an oil change I take it the dealership will have to be informed that it will need to reverse the cap install process to fill oil (i.e they will have to remove the hose from barb, unthread the barb from the separator and then do the 90 degree counter clockwise turn to remove the Clean Oil separator each time oil needs to be changed/added to the vehicle)?
Also on the Clean Oil separator...now that its installed, when the vehicle requires an oil change I take it the dealership will have to be informed that it will need to reverse the cap install process to fill oil (i.e they will have to remove the hose from barb, unthread the barb from the separator and then do the 90 degree counter clockwise turn to remove the Clean Oil separator each time oil needs to be changed/added to the vehicle)?
On the 2nd question, believe IF I were asking the dealer to change oil (I’ll do my own as I did for the 1st one) I’d removed the “clean oil separator” and the plug installed over the original barb on the tank. Then I’d put on the original tank cap and put the new hose on the original barb.
