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I recently installed a set of long tube headers. I have a Diablosport In-Tune with custom tune. The rev limit should be out of the way but It stops pulling at about 5900 - 6000 rpm. Runs fine and pull strong up to that point then just stops pulling like it hit a rev limit. After the shift, it's back to pulling hard and then the same thing at 5900. Is it possible that I damaged one of those bast#$d plug wires when changing the headers and that would cause this? I would think a damaged wire would cause problems through out the rpms and not just high rpms. What plugs wires are you guys upgrading to on the C7?
we all leave stock wires because there is nothing gained going otherwise, except for looks. if you have a show car that sits around with the hood up then get aftermarket wires. if you drive you car and it has some dirt on it, stick with stock.
Diablosport is looking at the custom tune vs stock tune right now. Removing the plug wires to install the headers was kind of tight and I thought pulling on them may have damaged one. But it does not act like it since it starts, idles and drive fine below 5900.
I kind of had a similar problem I just figured out. I am supercharged and accelerating hard from 2nd through 3rd about 4500/5000 up to 6000 rpm in boost the car started sputtering. But if I was rolling on in a higher gear it did not. Turns out the plug wire on cylinder 8 was not seated. Its funny I did no realize this during normal driving, only hard acceleration above 4500rpm.
The car was having meth kit and exhaust on a few weeks ago, with plugs. I have aftermarket wires on the car for looks, and either the boot slipped off (doubtful because how firm they seat) or when the plugs were changed the plug wire was never fully seated. Once pushed on the car ran great.I guess I was driving around for a few weeks with an arcing plug wire.
I kind of had a similar problem I just figured out. I am supercharged and accelerating hard from 2nd through 3rd about 4500/5000 up to 6000 rpm in boost the car started sputtering. But if I was rolling on in a higher gear it did not. Turns out the plug wire on cylinder 8 was not seated. Its funny I did no realize this during normal driving, only hard acceleration above 4500rpm.
The car was having meth kit and exhaust on a few weeks ago, with plugs. I have aftermarket wires on the car for looks, and either the boot slipped off (doubtful because how firm they seat) or when the plugs were changed the plug wire was never fully seated. Once pushed on the car ran great.I guess I was driving around for a few weeks with an arcing plug wire.
Thanks, maybe that is the case with mine. The boots all feet tight. I don't like those metal boots for some reason. I'm afraid I may have pull a wire loose from inside one of them. Diablosport said it's not the tune or rev limit so I'm going to install a set of MSD 8.5mm wire and see if it changes anything.
Last edited by typhoon186; Jul 1, 2014 at 01:04 PM.
Thanks, maybe that is the case with mine. The boots all feet tight. I don't like those metal boots for some reason. I'm afraid I may have pull a wire loose from inside one of them. Diablosport said it's not the tune or rev limit so I'm going to install a set of MSD 8.5mm wire and see if it changes anything.
have you come up with the reason yet for not liking the metal boots on your wires? I know why I like them, it keeps them from burning. if you have a bad wire it will set a dtc. and like someone else has said, other than looks, stock wires are plenty good.
Probably no valid reason for not liking the metal boots but they tend to slip off the rubber boot and I just plain don't like the looks of them. But again not much of a valid reason. I did replace them with the MSD 8.5 super conductor wires. Part # 32819. $66.50 at Summit Racing. They claim 50 ohms per foot. The wires are about 6-8 inches long. I checked the resistance and all were 23 - 25.7 ohms. The factory wires were 3,600 to 3,970 ohms.
However, this did not correct my problem of not revving past 5900 rpm. I still think there must be something in the Diablosport tune that is not giving me a higher rev limit. More investigation to do. But my new wires look good.
Last edited by typhoon186; Jul 7, 2014 at 03:36 PM.
If you have HP Tuners, you can set up a scan to log miss fires by cylinders. I was able to determine #8 on a friend's car was causing a flashing CEL light due to the wire not being fully seated.
Oh, another thing...if it is a misfire, the CEL will flash rapidly. If its been tuned, the tuner could have changed the table number of misfires before the CEL starts flashing.
If you have HP Tuners, you can set up a scan to log miss fires by cylinders. I was able to determine #8 on a friend's car was causing a flashing CEL light due to the wire not being fully seated.
Oh, another thing...if it is a misfire, the CEL will flash rapidly. If its been tuned, the tuner could have changed the table number of misfires before the CEL starts flashing.
It does not act like a misfire. There is no stumble or miss. It pulls perfect then instantly stops pulling completely until I shift. Once the rpm drop, it pulls perfect again until 5900 rpm again the repeats.
Have you changed anything on the intake side? OI witnessed was a similar situation where the owner had installed a supercharge put a cheap flexible silicone coupling between the air filter and supercharger. At full throttle, the coupling would collapse basically shutting off 90% of the air. We added an aluminum tube inside the coupling and it kept it open and solved the problem.
Have you changed anything on the intake side? OI witnessed was a similar situation where the owner had installed a supercharge put a cheap flexible silicone coupling between the air filter and supercharger. At full throttle, the coupling would collapse basically shutting off 90% of the air. We added an aluminum tube inside the coupling and it kept it open and solved the problem.
Logged it with Diablosport scanner. Did not see anything unusual when it falls off. No KR, No change in O2 volts. Intake side is just opened up stock air box with K&N drop in filter. Also modified the stock thermostat to bypass a little water so it runs cooler. Runs about 175 degrees now instead of 200.
Last edited by typhoon186; Jul 7, 2014 at 03:41 PM.