How-To: Remove/Replace Intake Manifold
#1
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
How-To: Remove/Replace Intake Manifold
The following How-To covers the explanation of how to Remove/Replace the Intake Manifold and includes specifications, schematics, etc.
These How-To guides are neither endorsed by or property of Corvette Forum or myself in any way/shape/form. All liability stemming from any actions taken in relation to these guides is solely placed upon the user.
We hope you will find these guides useful.
These How-To guides are neither endorsed by or property of Corvette Forum or myself in any way/shape/form. All liability stemming from any actions taken in relation to these guides is solely placed upon the user.
We hope you will find these guides useful.
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McCarthy (03-28-2016)
#6
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
A couple of tips that are mentioned, but not really described well...
1) The felt cover on top of the intake manifold can not be removed without tearing unless you also remove (or greatly loosen) the intake manifold, itself.
2) On the rear of the intake manifold (driver's side), there is a plastic compression connector with very little slack. Be prepared for that, and properly remove the fitting (panel tool will safely pop out the compression collar and let go of the tube).
3) If swapping manifolds, you must remove the long screws/bolts from the sides. Simply press them out (takes force), and then transfer and press them back into the next manifold. It's not immediately apparent since there is a sort of locknut on them. But, rest assured, this is what to do here. Many have scratched their heads at this point.
4) If your gaskets are clean and in good shape, you can re-use them without issue. If you want to purchase a new set to have on hand, that's fine. The gaskets are a high-quality green material that transfers over quite well.
1) The felt cover on top of the intake manifold can not be removed without tearing unless you also remove (or greatly loosen) the intake manifold, itself.
2) On the rear of the intake manifold (driver's side), there is a plastic compression connector with very little slack. Be prepared for that, and properly remove the fitting (panel tool will safely pop out the compression collar and let go of the tube).
3) If swapping manifolds, you must remove the long screws/bolts from the sides. Simply press them out (takes force), and then transfer and press them back into the next manifold. It's not immediately apparent since there is a sort of locknut on them. But, rest assured, this is what to do here. Many have scratched their heads at this point.
4) If your gaskets are clean and in good shape, you can re-use them without issue. If you want to purchase a new set to have on hand, that's fine. The gaskets are a high-quality green material that transfers over quite well.
#7
Drifting
Thanks for this write-up. Really nice to have an intake manifod that does not have coolant passages... or the need for RTV to seal up the valley! I plan to do this around 5000 miles to see if I am having any intake valve oil fouling and to clean if necessary.
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eddie1351 (12-24-2016)
#10
Melting Slicks
Also please note that these bolts torque to inch lbs not ft lbs.. Please don't ask 😥🤣
Also, they make a 99 cent compression tool for that rear brake vacume line, makes it way easier
Also, they make a 99 cent compression tool for that rear brake vacume line, makes it way easier
Last edited by spinkick; 04-21-2018 at 04:17 PM.
#11
The fitting is not so bad to remove in fact, it's like a standard quick air fitting we use in the industry. Just push the external ring with a flat screwdriver or your hand and it will release the hose.
Pay attention to the 89Lbs-in torque yes, not 89lbs-ft
Pay attention to the 89Lbs-in torque yes, not 89lbs-ft