Ever wonder how alignment changes after lowering?
I did this for my own curiosity but thought it would be very useful for forum members.
Last week was spent lowering the car and tweaking each corner because I'm so ****. As soon as I was happy with the height at the corners I took it back to align the car. I was betting it would be out of spec in at least one area.
The alignment was done by the same tech on the same machine. Tire pressures at 31 psi and 7/8 fuel in the tank.
Below are the results, before on the left and after on the right. You can see that after lowering there were 3 areas out of spec.
Here is a picture of the car. The front has been lowered, the rear not yet.
LF
Caster 7.95____________________ Caster 8.26 (out of specs)
Camber -0.12___________________Camber -0.42
Toe 0.14_______________________Toe 0.04
Total toe 0.20___________________Total toe 0.02
RF
Caster 7.47____________________ Caster 7.83
Camber -0.76___________________Camber -0.87
Toe 0.06_______________________Toe -0.02
Total toe 0.20___________________Total toe 0.02
LR
Camber -0.65___________________Camber -0.83
Toe 0.00_______________________Toe 0.14 (out of specs)
Total toe -0.07__________________Total toe 0.04
RR
Camber -0.55___________________Camber -0.74
Toe -0.07______________________Toe -0.11 (out of specs)
Total toe -0.07__________________Total toe 0.04
Last edited by corvette dave; Sep 13, 2014 at 11:21 AM.




I don't know GM's permitted range of settings for the C7 but I can see the initial alignment wasn't well done. There shouldn't have been that much camber difference between the front wheels (-.12 L and -.76 R). The left front wheel was practically standing straight up. It looks like you may have lowered the left front more than the right front so your after camber readings are more closely matched. Reducing the caster on the left front will bring the negative camber closer to the right front which is good from a performance stand point but will increase tire wear. Do you know which way the machine measured toe? Most machines and specification sheets define toe in as positive and toe out as negative but there is no defined standard so sometimes you run into the situations where the signs are reversed. Typically lowering will increase front toe in and increase rear toe out since negative camber increases. The toe results are interesting since you got increased toe in at the left rear and increased toe out at the right rear.
Bill
I don't know GM's permitted range of settings for the C7 but I can see the initial alignment wasn't well done. There shouldn't have been that much camber difference between the front wheels (-.12 L and -.76 R). The left front wheel was practically standing straight up. It looks like you may have lowered the left front more than the right front so your after camber readings are more closely matched. Reducing the caster on the left front will bring the negative camber closer to the right front which is good from a performance stand point but will increase tire wear. Do you know which way the machine measured toe? Most machines and specification sheets define toe in as positive and toe out as negative but there is no defined standard so sometimes you run into the situations where the signs are reversed. Typically lowering will increase front toe in and increase rear toe out since negative camber increases. The toe results are interesting since you got increased toe in at the left rear and increased toe out at the right rear.
Bill
Nowhere in my post did I say I used the body to make measurements.
I am aware of wedge and rake. I have been explaining this to forum members for years. Most don't seem to care.
Your explanation is well taken.

Here is what I posted in another thread:
The lowering bolts allow the corners to be adjusted about 1/2" to 3/4" up or down. Each car is different from the factory, even a small amount.
If you look at a stock corvette from the factory you will see there are varying amounts of threads remaining on the bolts. As an example, one corner you might be able to turn the bolt 4 turns. Another corner might be 8 turns. The others might be somewhere between those two.
The bolts are not exact to the correct ride height.
Mine were 8, 7, 6, 5.
Lowering the car to the max at all corners does not make the car level.
My advice is to keep the amount of lowering as even as possible side to side front and rear.
Also keep the amount of lowering as even as possible front to rear to keep the factory rake.
You will end up with some bolts at their max and some not.
Mine ended with 2 maxed and 2 not.
Take accurate measurements before turning anything and record them.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Not sure what you mean.
I had my car aligned after lowering.
It is aligned better now than it arrived from the factory.
Camber -0.65___________________Camber -0.83
Toe 0.00_______________________Toe 0.14 (out of specs)
Total toe -0.07__________________Total toe 0.04
RR
Camber -0.55___________________Camber -0.74
Toe -0.07______________________Toe -0.11 (out of specs)
Total toe -0.07__________________Total toe 0.04[/QUOTE]
So regarding your REAR TOE specs, where you indicate that the rear changes from negative to positive after lowering, pardon my basic question but does that mean your rear toe went toe in after it was lowered? I thought usually Corvettes go toe out after lowering. Negative toe means toe out and positive means toe in? Thanks.
Dave
Last edited by Crjdave; Apr 24, 2018 at 10:19 PM.




Camber -0.65___________________Camber -0.83
Toe 0.00_______________________Toe 0.14 (out of specs)
Total toe -0.07__________________Total toe 0.04
RR
Camber -0.55___________________Camber -0.74
Toe -0.07______________________Toe -0.11 (out of specs)
Total toe -0.07__________________Total toe 0.04
Dave[/QUOTE]
Dave,
There is no universal agreement on which sign should be assigned to toe in or toe out. From a GM standpoint Toe In is positive and Toe out is negative. This is something that should be clarified when you are getting an alignment and telling the mechanic what you want. I always show toe in as positive but I also write on the sheet right next to it TOE IN. A case on point are the old Pfadt specs used for the C5 and C6. They had toe in listed as negative and some people were getting toe out instead. Pfadt updated their later sheets with a note that Toe In was negative in their specs. Most people use positive for Toe In but there are just enough that do the opposite that you need to ensure you don't get caught in a failure to communicate situation.
Bill
Dave
There is no universal agreement on which sign should be assigned to toe in or toe out. From a GM standpoint Toe In is positive and Toe out is negative. This is something that should be clarified when you are getting an alignment and telling the mechanic what you want. I always show toe in as positive but I also write on the sheet right next to it TOE IN. A case on point are the old Pfadt specs used for the C5 and C6. They had toe in listed as negative and some people were getting toe out instead. Pfadt updated their later sheets with a note that Toe In was negative in their specs. Most people use positive for Toe In but there are just enough that do the opposite that you need to ensure you don't get caught in a failure to communicate situation.
Bill[/QUOTE]
Awesome info Bill and you confirmed what I was thinking. There needs to be clarification when people use the +/- instead of "in/out" to indicate toe. Thanks for the reply...So that still leaves me with the question then...does he mean the toe went out or in after he lowered his car. lol
-Dave
















