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Has anyone out there removed this elbow from the middle of the passenger side valve cover. I haven't been able to solve the puzzle as to it's method of attachment. I've tried rotating it and just pulling straight out, but without any success.
I broke mine when removing it, but the cold temps back in the winter of '13 had a lot to do with it, even with using the proper removal tool.
It's an inverse clip. I'll either post a pic or mock-up for you. Word of caution - don't yank on it any more. If a piece breaks off, as it did in my case, it takes forever to get it out.
I broke mine when removing it, but the cold temps back in the winter of '13 had a lot to do with it, even with using the proper removal tool.
It's an inverse clip. I'll either post a pic or mock-up for you. Word of caution - don't yank on it any more. If a piece breaks off, as it did in my case, it takes forever to get it out.
I would appreciate a picture to show what I'm dealing with as far as a clip, and no, I'm not using any more force on it until I have a better understanding of what I'm dealing with.
I always forget how infuriating it is looking for this hose in the parts system or service information, because it's either not there, or I've never found it.
Seriously, I've done this search at least a half-dozen times to no avail.
Nonetheless, I will use one of my own photos from back when I still had the part and was using it as part of my LMR kit.
I also created an accurate recreation of the piece to show you what the unbroken clip will appear like, and highlighted the clip edges.
Hopefully this helps! (sorry for the crap quality - this was a small segment taken from a LG G2 way back when)
I always forget how infuriating it is looking for this hose in the parts system or service information, because it's either not there, or I've never found it.
Seriously, I've done this search at least a half-dozen times to no avail.
Nonetheless, I will use one of my own photos from back when I still had the part and was using it as part of my LMR kit.
I also created an accurate recreation of the piece to show you what the unbroken clip will appear like, and highlighted the clip edges.
Hopefully this helps! (sorry for the crap quality - this was a small segment taken from a LG G2 way back when)
Wow - Thanks Theta. That picture explains a lot. Why would they ever use a positive locking retainer like that on a PCV line?
Your picture makes it appear that the locking side of the tabs, not the insertion ramp side, has a slight ramp shape to it. In your opinion would it be possible to pull it free if uniform force was applied to either side of the elbow in a way that it would come out straight, or would rotating the elbow while applying pulling force work?
I guess all I can do is try it. If it breaks then the old Hot Rodder ingenuity to build a better mousetrap will have to be employed.
Thanks again,
Ed
Last edited by Old Yellow; May 8, 2015 at 11:01 AM.
Wow - Thanks Theta. That picture explains a lot. Why would they ever use a positive locking retainer like that on a PCV line?
Your picture makes it appear that the locking side of the tabs, not the insertion ramp side, has a slight wedge shape to it. In your opinion would it be possible to pull it free if uniform force was applied to either side of the elbow in a way that it would come out straight, or would rotating the elbow while applying pulling force work?
I guess all I can do is try it. If it breaks then the old Hot Rodder ingenuity to build a better mousetrap will have to be employed.
Thanks again,
Ed
I was told but havent tried it that if you turn it 90 degrees it can be pulled out. On the other hand its easier to just take a razor blade and slit the plastic tube leaving the fitting intact and fit what ever hose you want onto it while its in the cover. Some what a **** poor setup but it does work and GM doesnt care about us tinkerer's
I was told but havent tried it that if you turn it 90 degrees it can be pulled out. On the other hand its easier to just take a razor blade and slit the plastic tube leaving the fitting intact and fit what ever hose you want onto it while its in the cover. Some what a **** poor setup but it does work and GM doesnt care about us tinkerer's
bob
Thanks for the input. I tried rotating it, but that didn't help. I'll try a direct 90 degree turn, and see if that works.
I'm trying to retain as much of the factory tubing as possible to keep the factory look. I did slit the tubing to remove one of the quick disconnect check valves.
Other obligations today, but I will probably end up slitting the tube. I may try using electrical heat shrink tubing over top of the slit when I reinstall everything, and see if that will give it a decent seal. If not then I'll just use hose. This line is never under any great pressure; be it positive, or negative pressure.
Wow - Thanks Theta. That picture explains a lot. Why would they ever use a positive locking retainer like that on a PCV line?
Your picture makes it appear that the locking side of the tabs, not the insertion ramp side, has a slight ramp shape to it. In your opinion would it be possible to pull it free if uniform force was applied to either side of the elbow in a way that it would come out straight, or would rotating the elbow while applying pulling force work?
I guess all I can do is try it. If it breaks then the old Hot Rodder ingenuity to build a better mousetrap will have to be employed.
Thanks again,
Ed
No problem, Ed! As Bob said, it's most likely to screw with us... I've always assumed it's an easy spot to check if you've messed with anything past the plastic covers.
Turning it won't matter - those inverted tines retain the inner (continuous) lip for 360 degrees. You are correct - I highlighted the pictures to illustrate the inverted ramps - great for inserting, terrible for removing.
I believe the safest procedure would be to allow that piece to become warm/hot, and gently use a tiny sprunger or hose pick to push one of the sides in enough to disengage the lock, then rock/wiggle the other side until it comes free.
Several shops have removed these without issues, but several users (like myself) have easily broken these. I 'fixed' mine by using a larger O-ring, and it never gave me troubles. Obviously, I don't use mine anymore, but I'd be inclined to recommend slitting the tube, and using 3:1 shrink tube as you had mentioned.
The pressure is extremely low on that hose, and 3:1 will clamp more than enough. If you're really concerned, get the 3:1 or 4:1 with the epoxy/glue innards. That stuff is permanent and non-leaking.
PCV lines
