C7 Z06 Front Wheel Studs Replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 468
Likes: 67
From: El Dorado Hills, CA
C7 Z06 Front Wheel Studs Replacement
I need to install longer studs to accommodate the front wheels I'm installing on my Z06. The new wheel offset mandates a spacer, so the existing studs won't work. Has anyone replaced the studs, and if so, any trick to it?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 35
From: Turlock CA
I couldn't see fighting them on the car. The ball/tierod joints took a hit of the BFH to free. I loosen the nut and back it off to where the bolt thread is just covered by the top of the nut and then smack it good right on the top of the bolt. Some hit the aluminum containing the taper of the bolt but I don't like that method and mine has always worked.
This is also the easiest way to change hubs, down the road, to the SKFs.
--Dan
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 468
Likes: 67
From: El Dorado Hills, CA
I didn't look very closely when I had a wheel off the C7 the other day but I am pretty sure this applies. On my C6 I found it easiest to pull the spindles as there are only the three ball joints to pop off (upper, lower, and tierod) and use a press to quickly push out the old and in with the new.
I couldn't see fighting them on the car. The ball/tierod joints took a hit of the BFH to free. I loosen the nut and back it off to where the bolt thread is just covered by the top of the nut and then smack it good right on the top of the bolt. Some hit the aluminum containing the taper of the bolt but I don't like that method and mine has always worked.
This is also the easiest way to change hubs, down the road, to the SKFs.
--Dan
I couldn't see fighting them on the car. The ball/tierod joints took a hit of the BFH to free. I loosen the nut and back it off to where the bolt thread is just covered by the top of the nut and then smack it good right on the top of the bolt. Some hit the aluminum containing the taper of the bolt but I don't like that method and mine has always worked.
This is also the easiest way to change hubs, down the road, to the SKFs.
--Dan
Thanks much, Jeff
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 468
Likes: 67
From: El Dorado Hills, CA
I agree, it does sound questionable, but I think you'll agree once I explain.
Here's the situation: I autocross, and Hoosier doesn't make A7's in the size for the C7 Z06, so I had a set of C6 GS wheels sitting around. I ran them as they were last year, on the C7, but found the front wheels were too narrow for the 315 X 18's. The GS wheels are only 9 1/2" and 315's are recommended for 11" - 12" wheels. While that combo (315's on 9 1/2") worked on my C6, I really chewed up the insides when mounted on the C7. There was plenty of life left on the surface, but the insides corded. There are many reasons the cording could have occurred, not the least of which is driving style; however, alignment was less aggressive than on my C6, which wore evenly.
To cut to the chase, a friend gave me a set of 10 1/2" by 18's for the front, which are closer to what Hoosier recommends. Here's the rub: The offset is + 1.0" more than my GS wheels; hence, the need for spacing and, therefore, longer studs. If I ran without spacing out, I'd rub badly on the inside, as I was scuffing a little last season with the 9 1/2" wheel offset.
Jeff
Here's the situation: I autocross, and Hoosier doesn't make A7's in the size for the C7 Z06, so I had a set of C6 GS wheels sitting around. I ran them as they were last year, on the C7, but found the front wheels were too narrow for the 315 X 18's. The GS wheels are only 9 1/2" and 315's are recommended for 11" - 12" wheels. While that combo (315's on 9 1/2") worked on my C6, I really chewed up the insides when mounted on the C7. There was plenty of life left on the surface, but the insides corded. There are many reasons the cording could have occurred, not the least of which is driving style; however, alignment was less aggressive than on my C6, which wore evenly.
To cut to the chase, a friend gave me a set of 10 1/2" by 18's for the front, which are closer to what Hoosier recommends. Here's the rub: The offset is + 1.0" more than my GS wheels; hence, the need for spacing and, therefore, longer studs. If I ran without spacing out, I'd rub badly on the inside, as I was scuffing a little last season with the 9 1/2" wheel offset.
Jeff
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 35
From: Turlock CA
I agree, it does sound questionable, but I think you'll agree once I explain.
Here's the situation: I autocross, and Hoosier doesn't make A7's in the size for the C7 Z06, so I had a set of C6 GS wheels sitting around. I ran them as they were last year, on the C7, but found the front wheels were too narrow for the 315 X 18's. The GS wheels are only 9 1/2" and 315's are recommended for 11" - 12" wheels. While that combo (315's on 9 1/2") worked on my C6, I really chewed up the insides when mounted on the C7. There was plenty of life left on the surface, but the insides corded. There are many reasons the cording could have occurred, not the least of which is driving style; however, alignment was less aggressive than on my C6, which wore evenly.
To cut to the chase, a friend gave me a set of 10 1/2" by 18's for the front, which are closer to what Hoosier recommends. Here's the rub: The offset is + 1.0" more than my GS wheels; hence, the need for spacing and, therefore, longer studs. If I ran without spacing out, I'd rub badly on the inside, as I was scuffing a little last season with the 9 1/2" wheel offset.
Jeff
Here's the situation: I autocross, and Hoosier doesn't make A7's in the size for the C7 Z06, so I had a set of C6 GS wheels sitting around. I ran them as they were last year, on the C7, but found the front wheels were too narrow for the 315 X 18's. The GS wheels are only 9 1/2" and 315's are recommended for 11" - 12" wheels. While that combo (315's on 9 1/2") worked on my C6, I really chewed up the insides when mounted on the C7. There was plenty of life left on the surface, but the insides corded. There are many reasons the cording could have occurred, not the least of which is driving style; however, alignment was less aggressive than on my C6, which wore evenly.
To cut to the chase, a friend gave me a set of 10 1/2" by 18's for the front, which are closer to what Hoosier recommends. Here's the rub: The offset is + 1.0" more than my GS wheels; hence, the need for spacing and, therefore, longer studs. If I ran without spacing out, I'd rub badly on the inside, as I was scuffing a little last season with the 9 1/2" wheel offset.
Jeff
On mine, I needed one 1/8" spacer to keep the wheel from snugging down into the caliper and not turning. These are that tight but it maybe the wheels I'm testing which are O.E.Wheels C6 Z06 replicas. Yours may have more clearance there. But, the ID of the wheel is very close to the caliper as well and will jam into wheel weights placed to the front side of the wheel. In fact, left over glue from weights rubbed.
Personally, I'm going to 19" all around with 40mm and 55mm offset. I doubt I'll put on A7s but go with R888 as a compromise for the street.
--Dan
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 468
Likes: 67
From: El Dorado Hills, CA
I put my 18x10.5s on the front the other day to see how they would clear and found what you discovered. They are in way too far. These wheels are a 58mm offset which have a backspacing of 8.03". OEM front wheels are 43mm with a 7.19" backspacing so clearance is gone. I took a pile of the 1/8" spacers I have and brought the wheel out 1/2" and that should be okay to run. But, it's still close.
On mine, I needed one 1/8" spacer to keep the wheel from snugging down into the caliper and not turning. These are that tight but it maybe the wheels I'm testing which are O.E.Wheels C6 Z06 replicas. Yours may have more clearance there. But, the ID of the wheel is very close to the caliper as well and will jam into wheel weights placed to the front side of the wheel. In fact, left over glue from weights rubbed.
Personally, I'm going to 19" all around with 40mm and 55mm offset. I doubt I'll put on A7s but go with R888 as a compromise for the street.
--Dan
On mine, I needed one 1/8" spacer to keep the wheel from snugging down into the caliper and not turning. These are that tight but it maybe the wheels I'm testing which are O.E.Wheels C6 Z06 replicas. Yours may have more clearance there. But, the ID of the wheel is very close to the caliper as well and will jam into wheel weights placed to the front side of the wheel. In fact, left over glue from weights rubbed.
Personally, I'm going to 19" all around with 40mm and 55mm offset. I doubt I'll put on A7s but go with R888 as a compromise for the street.
--Dan
Actually, rubbing was an issue with weights on my 9 1/2" GS wheels, so we placed them away from the tight section. My wheels are OE, as well. Depending on where one measures, they appear to be exactly + 1" offset. The reason I say "appear" is that my 10 1/2" wheels have a significant inside lip, so I measured without that for comparison purposes. Backspacing I didn't fool around with. Just crawled under.
FYI, the rubbing I experienced last season was on the brake ducting. I'll have to be careful this year on tight turns to avoid that issue.
I ran Toyo's one season and liked them. I had them on a C4 with an automatic. Fun car, but a tad underpowered. Should stuck with that car; would saved a ton of money.
Gotta go back and check your car's photo to see if you installed the rocker pieces.
Jeff
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 468
Likes: 67
From: El Dorado Hills, CA
I put my 18x10.5s on the front the other day to see how they would clear and found what you discovered. They are in way too far. These wheels are a 58mm offset which have a backspacing of 8.03". OEM front wheels are 43mm with a 7.19" backspacing so clearance is gone. I took a pile of the 1/8" spacers I have and brought the wheel out 1/2" and that should be okay to run. But, it's still close.
On mine, I needed one 1/8" spacer to keep the wheel from snugging down into the caliper and not turning. These are that tight but it maybe the wheels I'm testing which are O.E.Wheels C6 Z06 replicas. Yours may have more clearance there. But, the ID of the wheel is very close to the caliper as well and will jam into wheel weights placed to the front side of the wheel. In fact, left over glue from weights rubbed.
Personally, I'm going to 19" all around with 40mm and 55mm offset. I doubt I'll put on A7s but go with R888 as a compromise for the street.
--Dan
On mine, I needed one 1/8" spacer to keep the wheel from snugging down into the caliper and not turning. These are that tight but it maybe the wheels I'm testing which are O.E.Wheels C6 Z06 replicas. Yours may have more clearance there. But, the ID of the wheel is very close to the caliper as well and will jam into wheel weights placed to the front side of the wheel. In fact, left over glue from weights rubbed.
Personally, I'm going to 19" all around with 40mm and 55mm offset. I doubt I'll put on A7s but go with R888 as a compromise for the street.
--Dan
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 35
From: Turlock CA
"... saved a ton of money." Yes, me too, but I can't take it with me and no one needs to get what's left, so .... It's just a car payment for a whole lot of fun.
--Dan
