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How much HP increase with these two things?

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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 01:54 PM
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Default How much HP increase with these two things?

How much hp increase can you get by changing exhaust and new air box. Friend has a 2016 Z51 with the 8speed and is looking to boost hp without voiding warranty. I took him for a spin in my Z06 and now he feels the need!
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 02:30 PM
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You talking cat back on the exhaust, or does he have the GM performance exhaust (NPP). A lot of guys are adding an X-pipe to get rid of the second cats and gain a little better sound. Not sure if there is much HP, I added Corsa's 3" double helix and love the sound, be suprised if there is are gains.

CAI, much debate there. I am running the AFE, and once again love the throaty sound of the intake and some throttle response. I thought I remembered some dyno comparisons. My guess is 10-15 HP.

Those two mods will add a little HP and sound much better. If he really wants some noticeable HP, he is going to need to use a tune...
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 03:02 PM
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He has the performance exhaust(NPP). Will pass on to him about the CAI. Thanks!
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TRT SR
He has the performance exhaust(NPP). Will pass on to him about the CAI. Thanks!
He would be happy would those two purchases. ARH also makes some mid-length headers that don't need a tune and have been shown to make some good power. Might be worth checking out as well,
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 04:14 PM
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Not enough to spend that kind of money. The C7 is not a bottom feeder like the previous generations. There really is no way to make a "Cold Air Induction" system for a C7. I've seen dyno graphs showing 10-15 HP gains but you'll never even notice on the street/strip. An exhaust is mostly for sound. NPP bypasses the mufflers and adds 5 HP. I doubt another exhaust is going to make any difference except maybe sound better.

In my opinion, spend your money on something else. Just a dyno tune will add more power and be cheaper but then you may experience warranty issues if you blow a motor, tranny or rear.

I chose to toss my PT warranty away at 800 miles. That said, my dealer has worked on my rear and other parts of my drive train and my car is very obviously modified. Many dealers could care less UNLESS GM demands the ECM data. As long as GM reimburses the dealer, most dealers don't give a sh*t
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 01:08 AM
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It amazes me how the intake thing is still a thing people are buying and selling. The intake design/system is very good from factory. It also has factory warranty, and is tested to last. Just gotta change the filter of course.

My local performance shop just changes the filter to a high flow one instead of putting in a whole new system that they know will cost 300 bucks just to make 10HP.
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 06:44 AM
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The air intake system is located right over the radiator hoses and behind the radiator so it picks up heat. The air filter assembly is close to the head so it also gets heat. I've logged IATs and was shocked by the amount of heat the system picks up at low speed.

Above 50 mph, there is enough air movement around the system to keep the IAT within 5-10° of ambient but below that, it rises quickly. Sitting still at idle, I've logged as much as 150° IAT.

Here in central Texas, that is a problem in the summer and there is a very noticeable power decline. In logging delivered torque and converting that to HP, I've seen as much as 30hp.

To help, I've installed insulation on the filter box and insulation sleeves over the radiator hoses. Although that has helped, it still gets very hot under the hood and with all that exposed air intake plumbing around 200°+ coolant and engine components, there is not much more I can do.
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Old Mar 21, 2016 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RussM05
The air intake system is located right over the radiator hoses and behind the radiator so it picks up heat. The air filter assembly is close to the head so it also gets heat. I've logged IATs and was shocked by the amount of heat the system picks up at low speed.

Above 50 mph, there is enough air movement around the system to keep the IAT within 5-10° of ambient but below that, it rises quickly. Sitting still at idle, I've logged as much as 150° IAT.

Here in central Texas, that is a problem in the summer and there is a very noticeable power decline. In logging delivered torque and converting that to HP, I've seen as much as 30hp.

To help, I've installed insulation on the filter box and insulation sleeves over the radiator hoses. Although that has helped, it still gets very hot under the hood and with all that exposed air intake plumbing around 200°+ coolant and engine components, there is not much more I can do.
Good ideas.
Can you post pics?
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