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I'll try that first. What does removing front sway bar has to do with going straight?
If the sway bar is removed, the mass reduction can increase weight transfer during launch which helps traction. If you merely loosen the sway bar/end links, you are still carrying the weight up front. Removal MIGHT be worth 1/10 second but every little bit helps, IMO.
I just got the same size nitto's yesterday... these tire are much beefer then the stock rf's. I'm hoping they mount up good and look right. They measure 12 3/8" unmounted I was really surprised at how wide they are!
I just got the same size nitto's yesterday... these tire are much beefer then the stock rf's. I'm hoping they mount up good and look right. They measure 12 3/8" unmounted I was really surprised at how wide they are!
You shouldn't have problem. Minimum wheel width requirement is 10 inch. Tire will stick out from wheel a little bit.
Where did you buy your set? I'm having trouble finding them in stock. I need one asap.
If the sway bar is removed, the mass reduction can increase weight transfer during launch which helps traction. If you merely loosen the sway bar/end links, you are still carrying the weight up front. Removal MIGHT be worth 1/10 second but every little bit helps, IMO.
Should I get Z51 rear swaybar or no swaybar. I was thinking swaybar will some what tighten up real lower control arms together.
Jegs had them to me in 3 days... They price matched discounttiredirect.com (they bdon't have them in stock) who was cheaper and gave free shipping. i believe they were 251 shipped.
I got a non z51 model what u guy think its best drag set up?
I'm thinking z51 rear shock, z51 thicker version rear swaybars. Leave fronts as is. Raise rear spring. 305 35 19 nitto nt05r on stock wheel.
I went 10.4@135 with that setup but my car is a Z51
22psi in the nittos
1.62 60 foot
there is more in it once I put my car in tour to help keep it looser that pass was in track mode..I have mag ride
Last edited by blown81bu; Apr 28, 2016 at 11:42 AM.
You will want to run a rear swaybar, and a larger one will help. Even the straight axle drag cars run a rear bar.
Please explain. A solid axle car runs a rear bar b/c engine/trans tq (generally well over 1000 lb-ft in 1st gear) is resolved through the frame rails and rear suspension. IOW the engine/trans wants to tilt the frame/body of the car, on top of the rear suspension. The sway bar helps correct that.
In any Corvettes, C2^, all that torque is resolved in the engine/frame rails/diff housing, C2-C4, and in the tq tube, C5 and up. Therefore, the only forced imparted on the rear suspension in a IRS 'Vette are those trying to lift the front of the car; opposite the direction of wheel acceleration.
I can't see how w rear sway bar would matter at all in this type of suspension.
Please explain. A solid axle car runs a rear bar b/c engine/trans tq (generally well over 1000 lb-ft in 1st gear) is resolved through the frame rails and rear suspension. IOW the engine/trans wants to tilt the frame/body of the car, on top of the rear suspension. The sway bar helps correct that.
In any Corvettes, C2^, all that torque is resolved in the engine/frame rails/diff housing, C2-C4, and in the tq tube, C5 and up. Therefore, the only forced imparted on the rear suspension in a IRS 'Vette are those trying to lift the front of the car; opposite the direction of wheel acceleration.
I can't see how w rear sway bar would matter at all in this type of suspension.
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so.. dont waste money on rear sway for drag racing? I dont have anything in the rear.. car drives fine on the street
Well I was asking for more clarification on what Ridetech posted.
If *I* were setting the car up for drag racing, I'd start by trying it w/the stock rear bar or no rear bar, for the same reason people disconnect the front bar; more weight transfer...and I don't believe that you need the bar in an IRS car like you do in a solid axle car for the reasons that I described. The way I see it, changing the rear bar for drag racing is a waste of money and effort.
"rklessdriver" in the C4 section has had incredible results w/both his 700+hp '84 (auto) and his ~500hp '92 6 speed. He has run the '84 down to 1.24 60' times through the "stock" IRS. His philosophy, which I agree with, is to run the stiffer "Z51 springs" as they put the weight transfer forces to the tire faster. He uses suspension stops to limit rear compression to keep the axle shafts straight (more important on a U-jointed C4, than a CV jointed C5^) and he feels that the stop also improve weight transfer to the tire, faster. Read mroe about him/his set up, HERE
Yes, it's a C4, you have a C7, but read about the philosophy, then apply it to your car.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 28, 2016 at 03:05 PM.
Well I was asking for more clarification on what Ridetech posted.
If *I* were setting the car up for drag racing, I'd start by trying it w/the stock rear bar or no rear bar, for the same reason people disconnect the front bar; more weight transfer...and I don't believe that you need the bar in an IRS car like you do in a solid axle car for the reasons that I described. The way I see it, changing the rear bar for drag racing is a waste of money and effort.
"rklessdriver" in the C4 section has had incredible results w/both his 700+hp '84 (auto) and his ~500hp '92 6 speed. He has run the '84 down to 1.24 60' times through the "stock" IRS. His philosophy, which I agree with, is to run the stiffer "Z51 springs" as they put the weight transfer forces to the tire faster. He uses suspension stops to limit rear compression to keep the axle shafts straight (more important on a U-jointed C4, than a CV jointed C5^) and he feels that the stop also improve weight transfer to the tire, faster. Read mroe about him/his set up, HERE
Yes, it's a C4, you have a C7, but read about the philosophy, then apply it to your car.
.
Good post... that 1.2x 60ft....
Last edited by hqbrian04; Apr 28, 2016 at 06:13 PM.