'16 Z51 Arctic White track build
06-01-2018, 04:26 PM
#761
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Surprisingly, I heat wrapped my exhaust pipes around the transmission and this helped A LOT. like 20-30 degrees lower now. I don't even worry about trans temps anymore. It used to be number 1 to overheat. Weird how we have different results, and my car is supercharged.
06-01-2018, 08:43 PM
#763
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-driving.html
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BenCasey (06-02-2018)
06-02-2018, 10:41 AM
#764
Pro
Surprisingly, I heat wrapped my exhaust pipes around the transmission and this helped A LOT. like 20-30 degrees lower now. I don't even worry about trans temps anymore. It used to be number 1 to overheat. Weird how we have different results, and my car is supercharged.
06-02-2018, 11:09 AM
#765
Melting Slicks
Did you get the airbag light under heavy braking or at different points on the track. When I was on fresh pads and sticky pirellis running ringer laps I would get the airbag light under heavy braking.
06-02-2018, 09:45 PM
#766
Instructor
This thread inspired me today to cut a 8" x 3/4" slot in my left rear splash shield with a razor. I figured if I was going to spend $80 I could try to save it by cutting the old one first. Came out good - looks like it is supposed to be that way. I can see the cooler and the rear vent through the slot. Anything to keep things cool. I already installed the Z51 lower rear brake cooling ducts without the control arm stuff, Z06 upper quarter scoops, wrapped the rear exhaust, removed the front 3 piece air dam, added a poverty splitter, took out the block out plates in the standard grill, installed Z51 front brake lower ducts without the control arm stuff, wrapped the left cat by the oil cooler/filter, removed hood scoop duct, removed radiator upper rear cover, removed rear hood seal, removed all upper engine plenum and coil covers, removed the upper plastic front fender shields from next to the headlamps and installed a Vararam CAI.
06-05-2018, 03:10 AM
#767
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
This thread inspired me today to cut a 8" x 3/4" slot in my left rear splash shield with a razor. I figured if I was going to spend $80 I could try to save it by cutting the old one first. Came out good - looks like it is supposed to be that way. I can see the cooler and the rear vent through the slot. Anything to keep things cool. I already installed the Z51 lower rear brake cooling ducts without the control arm stuff, Z06 upper quarter scoops, wrapped the rear exhaust, removed the front 3 piece air dam, added a poverty splitter, took out the block out plates in the standard grill, installed Z51 front brake lower ducts without the control arm stuff, wrapped the left cat by the oil cooler/filter, removed hood scoop duct, removed radiator upper rear cover, removed rear hood seal, removed all upper engine plenum and coil covers, removed the upper plastic front fender shields from next to the headlamps and installed a Vararam CAI.
06-05-2018, 03:22 AM
#768
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I have a few updates to share: Trailer, Brakes and alignment.
Trailer
I've finally switched to a nice trailer, which will let me fulfill my dreams of staying inside the trailer! It's ATC Quest CH305, 8.5'x22' + 2' Wedge nose (the interior floor space is as big as regular 24' with cabinets!)
Now that I have a trailer wired for shore power, I installed a TV. 43" fit perfect. Since it's a smart TV, it can use our home's WIFI for various kinds of video access.
All my track stuff easily fits into cabinets. I also do have a WINCH in case I'd like to load it without driving it.
So-called ultra-low-profile Mach 8 A/c with HEAT PUMP; 15K BTU. This is the lowest profile unit I could find in the market, with only 8" height over the trailer. Every inch counts to reduce drag.
My old weight distribution hitch from Harbor Freight, which actually is an identical copy of Curt WD hitch, was about 100 lbs, and I had to lift pretty much all of it to install each time. With the new trailer, I've also decided to switch to Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch. Most of this kit is aluminum, and the part where I'd need to install the truck (the rest will stay on trailer) is only 25 lbs !!!!
Trailer
I've finally switched to a nice trailer, which will let me fulfill my dreams of staying inside the trailer! It's ATC Quest CH305, 8.5'x22' + 2' Wedge nose (the interior floor space is as big as regular 24' with cabinets!)
Now that I have a trailer wired for shore power, I installed a TV. 43" fit perfect. Since it's a smart TV, it can use our home's WIFI for various kinds of video access.
All my track stuff easily fits into cabinets. I also do have a WINCH in case I'd like to load it without driving it.
So-called ultra-low-profile Mach 8 A/c with HEAT PUMP; 15K BTU. This is the lowest profile unit I could find in the market, with only 8" height over the trailer. Every inch counts to reduce drag.
My old weight distribution hitch from Harbor Freight, which actually is an identical copy of Curt WD hitch, was about 100 lbs, and I had to lift pretty much all of it to install each time. With the new trailer, I've also decided to switch to Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch. Most of this kit is aluminum, and the part where I'd need to install the truck (the rest will stay on trailer) is only 25 lbs !!!!
Last edited by X25; 06-05-2018 at 03:42 AM.
06-05-2018, 03:34 AM
#769
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Brakes and alignment
I've been using these Girodisc rotors since 12/2016!!! They have lasted for more than a season now, and even though they're not worn out yet, since they do have quite a bit of cracks, I've decided to change them.
The ST43 pads were also worn out. This one was the thinnest looking one of them all. I've put the new pad under it; do you see how much narrower it is than the new ones? Per Mike @ Girodisc, this is the reason why it hit their 2-piece rotor hats. Anyhow, I plan to contact Porterfield and let them know about the right pad design for our cars, so they can correct their information on their site. Due to this issue, many people are using loose pads, which might even cause other issues (easier to cause knock back for instance).
Used rotors are 0.4 lbs lighter.
Old and new pads stacked next to each other.
Poor seals..
Everything installed.
During my regular inspection, I've also realized that out of 8 eccentric bolts, two of them moved: left and right LCA bolts closer to back of the car. So symmetrically, same bolt moved a bit. I've fixed it back, and tightened it quite a bit. I will keep an eye on them.
And finally, since so many asked about it, here's how to make sure the bleeders don't leak at the track.
I've been using these Girodisc rotors since 12/2016!!! They have lasted for more than a season now, and even though they're not worn out yet, since they do have quite a bit of cracks, I've decided to change them.
The ST43 pads were also worn out. This one was the thinnest looking one of them all. I've put the new pad under it; do you see how much narrower it is than the new ones? Per Mike @ Girodisc, this is the reason why it hit their 2-piece rotor hats. Anyhow, I plan to contact Porterfield and let them know about the right pad design for our cars, so they can correct their information on their site. Due to this issue, many people are using loose pads, which might even cause other issues (easier to cause knock back for instance).
Used rotors are 0.4 lbs lighter.
Old and new pads stacked next to each other.
Poor seals..
Everything installed.
During my regular inspection, I've also realized that out of 8 eccentric bolts, two of them moved: left and right LCA bolts closer to back of the car. So symmetrically, same bolt moved a bit. I've fixed it back, and tightened it quite a bit. I will keep an eye on them.
Last edited by X25; 06-05-2018 at 04:04 AM.
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daleong (06-06-2018)
08-29-2018, 02:13 PM
#770
Schroth harness
I am currently going to track days in my '17 Grand Sport (competition seats) with brey krause harness lap belt mounts and a sharkbar. I have driver and passenger Schroth Profi II ASM 4 point harnesses which I am very happy with. These let me use a necksgen rev2 lite for added neck protection. Only issue is some tracks and groups (Chin Track days) won't let a 4 point harness pass tech. I would prefer to not modify the competition seats to accept a sub belt through the bottom cusion. I was thinking of a F1 style setup adding schroth sub belts with driver sitting on subs that wrap under thighs and mount back on the lap belt attachment points. Any ideas for a setup that will pass tech?
Prior to installing the Brey Krause lap belt mounts I used a bench grinder to smooth the edges then spray painted them black. They have been great since installation.
I also recently changed from worn out stock brake pads (iron rotors) to G-loc brake pads. Will be running GS-1 compound for street use and swap to track only R12 front and R10 rear compounds.
Currently I'm finishing off my stock Michelin pilot super sport tires and I'm looking to get a set of 18" track only wheels. I like the BC forged wheel option w knurled beads. What wheel and tire width would you recommend to run with stock widebody Grand sport with mag ride suspension? I may consider a DSC controller in the future but don't want to go to coilover setup.
Overall I’m very impressed with the capabilities of the car.
08-29-2018, 03:27 PM
#771
Instructor
Schroth asm
Hi,
not sure which Chin region you are in but i’ve Driven with Chin with the ASM setup. Their safety guy should talk to the Schroth people. It is the best option for you with the competition seats. I have the same setup. Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous.
I’m running 18 inch wheels with 8.5 and 10 inch width as well as 10.5 and 11 inch wheels. I’m not sure the wider wheels help me a lot. The Pirrelli’s scrubs on the 8.5 and 10 inch 18 wheels work really good. I would do that first before buying the expensive wider wheels. I did into the limit of the front stock calipers and had to move on to AP racing breaks. In case of further questions pm me.
Regards, Jan
not sure which Chin region you are in but i’ve Driven with Chin with the ASM setup. Their safety guy should talk to the Schroth people. It is the best option for you with the competition seats. I have the same setup. Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous.
I’m running 18 inch wheels with 8.5 and 10 inch width as well as 10.5 and 11 inch wheels. I’m not sure the wider wheels help me a lot. The Pirrelli’s scrubs on the 8.5 and 10 inch 18 wheels work really good. I would do that first before buying the expensive wider wheels. I did into the limit of the front stock calipers and had to move on to AP racing breaks. In case of further questions pm me.
Regards, Jan
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Cconway84 (08-29-2018)
08-29-2018, 04:51 PM
#772
Jan,
I'm interested is the details surrounding the following, "Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous."
Do you have an literature which details the dangers of doing so?
I've seen instances where organizations say it is acceptable, certainly safer than no sub belt at all.
Thanks,
Brett
I'm interested is the details surrounding the following, "Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous."
Do you have an literature which details the dangers of doing so?
I've seen instances where organizations say it is acceptable, certainly safer than no sub belt at all.
Thanks,
Brett
Hi,
not sure which Chin region you are in but i’ve Driven with Chin with the ASM setup. Their safety guy should talk to the Schroth people. It is the best option for you with the competition seats. I have the same setup. Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous.
I’m running 18 inch wheels with 8.5 and 10 inch width as well as 10.5 and 11 inch wheels. I’m not sure the wider wheels help me a lot. The Pirrelli’s scrubs on the 8.5 and 10 inch 18 wheels work really good. I would do that first before buying the expensive wider wheels. I did into the limit of the front stock calipers and had to move on to AP racing breaks. In case of further questions pm me.
Regards, Jan
not sure which Chin region you are in but i’ve Driven with Chin with the ASM setup. Their safety guy should talk to the Schroth people. It is the best option for you with the competition seats. I have the same setup. Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous.
I’m running 18 inch wheels with 8.5 and 10 inch width as well as 10.5 and 11 inch wheels. I’m not sure the wider wheels help me a lot. The Pirrelli’s scrubs on the 8.5 and 10 inch 18 wheels work really good. I would do that first before buying the expensive wider wheels. I did into the limit of the front stock calipers and had to move on to AP racing breaks. In case of further questions pm me.
Regards, Jan
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Cconway84 (08-29-2018)
08-29-2018, 05:04 PM
#773
Instructor
6 point under legs
I have no literature nor so I claim to be an expert. In my conversations with Schroth they feel the ASM is much safer than the 6 point under your legs / butt setup. Probably both are fine for DE. I was just commenting on not allowing the 4 point ASM.
Regards, Jan
Regards, Jan
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Cconway84 (08-29-2018)
08-29-2018, 05:14 PM
#774
Jan,
I'm interested is the details surrounding the following, "Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous."
Do you have an literature which details the dangers of doing so?
I've seen instances where organizations say it is acceptable, certainly safer than no sub belt at all.
Thanks,
Brett
I'm interested is the details surrounding the following, "Strangely enough they will pass the 6 point under your legs to the back of which Schroth says it is dangerous."
Do you have an literature which details the dangers of doing so?
I've seen instances where organizations say it is acceptable, certainly safer than no sub belt at all.
Thanks,
Brett
https://www.schrothracing.com/products/formula
“The sub straps are typically anchored very far rearward, almost to the lap belt mounting points. See Schroth’s installation documents for more mounting information. This belt is typically used in single seat open wheeled cars with very reclined seating positions. This belt is not recommended for use in traditional road cars, or vehicles with more upright seating positions.”
https://www.schrothracing.com/products/profi
And page for the 4 point asm model.
”The Profi II ASM is designed to be used as a four point system. For this reason it is perfect for use in Driver Education cars or any other application where stock seats are retained. A seat that was not originally desiged for use with a racing restraint should never be modified to accept an sub strap.”
Clearly Schroth is a reputable company. It seems the 4 point ASM system is the safest option for stock seats with ability to run necksgen hans type device. Requiring 6 point for tech would require me to run unsafe sub belt setup or unsafe seat modification.
Last edited by Cconway84; 08-29-2018 at 05:18 PM. Reason: spelling
08-29-2018, 05:24 PM
#775
It seem logical that a 4-point ASM harness would be made safer by adding a 2 point sub-belt, even if the person is sitting on the sub-belt and it was anchored behind the driver.
This configuration would be safer than the 4-point alone and conform to the requirement to have more than a 4-point harness.
I'm not trying to argue the point, just trying to fully understand the dynamics involved. Many people want to make their cars safer and more track appropriate, but don't have the option to rip everything out and build a safety system from the ground up.
https://www.schrothracing.com/products/anti-sub-straps
This configuration would be safer than the 4-point alone and conform to the requirement to have more than a 4-point harness.
I'm not trying to argue the point, just trying to fully understand the dynamics involved. Many people want to make their cars safer and more track appropriate, but don't have the option to rip everything out and build a safety system from the ground up.
https://www.schrothracing.com/products/anti-sub-straps
Last edited by Brett Sonderby; 08-29-2018 at 05:48 PM.
08-29-2018, 06:57 PM
#776
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
I know most of you already know this all, but we still need to talk about the "racing harness ecosystem" just to make sure we're all in the same page : )
- Seat: Race seats help vastly improve the feedback we feel from the car and they did a much better job at keeping us where we are, so we don't mis-shift or fail a heel-n-toe.
- Race harness: Once you have the race seat, we have now seriously compromised the safety systems on the car. Most modern cars have some of the airbags on the seats, and expect them to deploy as part of the system, depending on the impact. As such, you'd better stay planted in the seat, since there won't be airbags deploying to save your had as you shuffle around.
- Roll-cage: Well, now that you're pinned to the seat, congratulations, your spine has just become yet another "stress structure" to help keep the roof intact in the event of a rollover. To avoid or mitigate this risk, you really need a cage. Well, cages are actually very stiff, and you'd better not hit them with your head. Yes, from now on, you and your passengers will need a helmet for safety, even if it's just a visit to Safeway.
- Fire suppression: Speaking of which, you just made it very hard for yourself to get out of your seat in the event of an emergency. You're in luck, fire suppressant systems are available in all sizes; one will certainly fit your need. Just remember, it gives you ~30 more seconds to get out of there, not more.
- Schrot's ASM system has the inner side of the shoulder harness come with a double stitched section. In the event of an accident, this section's stitches brake down, and now your inner shoulder is free, letting your top body move forward (anti sub-marine), and bend over, conforming to whatever space your collapsed roof now provides.
- In short, Schroth ASM harnesses work just like a DOT seat belt in the event of an accident, yet they do work like a proper race harness at other times; beautiful!
- I think tech people have also caught up with it lately, but some of them might still red-flag a car with 4-point Schroth ASM. I recommend carrying some piece of paperwork, and showing them that this is even DOT approved, probably the only DOT approved racing harness there is (for that, you actually need that red-buttoned center lock; details), and any DOT approved is also allowed in these events. In other words, ASM would not let the driver sub-marine anyway, and there's no safety need for the sub-belts anymore.
- In my case, I have the sub-belts as well on my Miata since I do have a race seat in it, but I only use it in 4-point configuration on the Corvette.
Last edited by X25; 08-29-2018 at 06:57 PM.
08-29-2018, 07:17 PM
#777
Advanced
In regards to the Schroth ASM DOT approval, when you buy the harness you can request they add the red "button" lock to the harness instead of the normal rotating lock, and that is what makes it DOT approved (I think...see below). They do not charge for this. So you can buy this: https://www.hmsmotorsport.com/products/Profi#1597 and have them swap in this center lock https://www.hmsmotorsport.com/products/Profi#1598. I'm honestly not sure why the large price difference. I bought the first link and had them swap the center cam for the red push button.
The FE street one says this: "The lap belts provided with this harness are only available in the Bolt-In style as they are most commonly needed in setups requiring street legality." So maybe they are implying to maintain street legality you need the red push button AND bolt in lap belts. I'm not sure on that, but I don't think you'd get a ticket for snap in lap belts.
The FE street one says this: "The lap belts provided with this harness are only available in the Bolt-In style as they are most commonly needed in setups requiring street legality." So maybe they are implying to maintain street legality you need the red push button AND bolt in lap belts. I'm not sure on that, but I don't think you'd get a ticket for snap in lap belts.
08-29-2018, 07:20 PM
#778
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
In regards to the Schroth ASM DOT approval, when you buy the harness you can request they add the red "button" lock to the harness instead of the normal rotating lock, and that is what makes it DOT approved (I think...see below). They do not charge for this. So you can buy this: https://www.hmsmotorsport.com/products/Profi#1597 and have them swap in this center lock https://www.hmsmotorsport.com/products/Profi#1598. I'm honestly not sure why the large price difference. I bought the first link and had them swap the center cam for the red push button.
The FE street one says this: "The lap belts provided with this harness are only available in the Bolt-In style as they are most commonly needed in setups requiring street legality." So maybe they are implying to maintain street legality you need the red push button AND bolt in lap belts. I'm not sure on that, but I don't think you'd get a ticket for snap in lap belts.
The FE street one says this: "The lap belts provided with this harness are only available in the Bolt-In style as they are most commonly needed in setups requiring street legality." So maybe they are implying to maintain street legality you need the red push button AND bolt in lap belts. I'm not sure on that, but I don't think you'd get a ticket for snap in lap belts.
08-29-2018, 07:21 PM
#779
Advanced
08-29-2018, 07:30 PM
#780
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
$335 here. Their MSRP was $5 apart. Not sure about that link : )