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Been having an issue for the past week or so with the key fob randomly not being detected, I replaced the battery in the key fob and it didn't really change anything.
Yesterday going to lunch with a coworker it wouldn't recognize the keyfob for passive unlock or to start the car. I was able to lock/unlock the doors via the remote buttons but car wouldn't start until I put it in the slot on the steering column, with it there the car ran without a problem. Got home and threw the car on my battery tender which was reading fully charged before bed, my passive unlock was working now but still didn't detect the fob in the car. I disconnected the negative terminal for a bit just for the fun of it but it didn't help.
Go to try it again this morning and I had to put key in the slot, hit the start button and got one weak crank and dimming lights, tried it again and the car fired up but was throwing a "Rear Axle system off" message. I turned the car off and decided to take the Volt to work.
Car is 3 weeks out of warranty or I would dump this on a dealer, I'm thinking replacing the car battery is my next logical step?
The weak crank and light dimming lends me to think that your car battery is close to dead. Your RKE sounds ok as you've changed the battery but still need the slot to start. The BCM is looking for the RKE and your car battery might be too weak to allow the BCM to function properly. Get it to a shop and have the battery load tested.
The weak crank and light dimming lends me to think that your car battery is close to dead. Your RKE sounds ok as you've changed the battery but still need the slot to start. The BCM is looking for the RKE and your car battery might be too weak to allow the BCM to function properly. Get it to a shop and have the battery load tested.
Thank you, it was odd to me that it weak cranked once but then cranked fine after.
I figure the RCDLR is ok as the TPMS sensors do work and update while the car is running and I read a bad RCDLR will trip TPMS issues. I am going to grab a battery tonight and see what happens.
Tried a new 2032 in the fob and it worked fine. Just replaced it 2 weeks ago and that battery is still showing 3.175v... maybe it's just weak under load.... not sure. Will see how long this lasts
Tried a new 2032 in the fob and it worked fine. Just replaced it 2 weeks ago and that battery is still showing 3.175v... maybe it's just weak under load.... not sure. Will see how long this lasts
Curious....
Did the other "new" battery have a cross-hatch pattern on it? One of the warnings on the "Replace the RKE battery" says to not use a battery with the cross-hatch pattern as it doesn't make contact properly with the RKE.
This is the warning: CR2032 Ray-o-vac with hatch is BAD, do not use.
Did the other "new" battery have a cross-hatch pattern on it? One of the warnings on the "Replace the RKE battery" says to not use a battery with the cross-hatch pattern as it doesn't make contact properly with the RKE.
This is the warning: CR2032 Ray-o-vac with hatch is BAD, do not use.
Elmer
Not sure, will look again when I get home. I know it's an energizer 2 pack from Target
Did the other "new" battery have a cross-hatch pattern on it? One of the warnings on the "Replace the RKE battery" says to not use a battery with the cross-hatch pattern as it doesn't make contact properly with the RKE.
This is the warning: CR2032 Ray-o-vac with hatch is BAD, do not use.
Elmer
Sorry for replying to a very old post, but I want to reinforce the idea that batteries with cross-hatched patterns do not work. I bought a 6-pack of Duracell DL2032 which worked in all my remotes for other cars but DID NOT work in my C7 RKE fobs. I was thinking new car battery, trip to the dealer, etc. but saw this post and bought other batteries with a smooth back and they work like a champ! I got Eveready batteries and they work. Thanks for the post! Bump!