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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 08:39 PM
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Default Cam education please

Ok, I'm a newbie to Engine performance upgrades, I put a supercharger on my 1994 Dodge Ram P/U in 1996 and blew up the motor 3 times before I gave up so this time before I play I want to know what I'm getting in to.

I'm looking at getting a cam installed in my 2014 Stingray MN7 Premier edition. Car is currently pretty stock and 100% engine stock. I love the sound of a cammed C6 but haven't heard a C7 in person yet but I figure it'd be much the same. What am I getting in to? Pro's and con's? HP gains? Drivability issues? I'll never track the car in any way, I just want the cool sound of a cam. I'd have it all done by a professional that mostly does Corvettes but looking for some education/ advice.

Thanks!
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 09:43 PM
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You could just upgrade to a Z06. It has some cam lope.
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by spearfish25
You could just upgrade to a Z06. It has some cam lope.
It has crossed my mind but this car was my fathers and he wanted to do a cam before he passed and I was going to do a cam or a supercharger on my C6, so while I'd love to have a Z06 I can't get rid of this car just yet.
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by spearfish25
You could just upgrade to a Z06. It has some cam lope.
Technically the Z06 idles more smoothly than the base model....the base has 5 degrees more overlap than the Z06.

OP, plan on spending 5 grand for cam lope. Is it worth it?
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
Technically the Z06 idles more smoothly than the base model....the base has 5 degrees more overlap than the Z06.

OP, plan on spending 5 grand for cam lope. Is it worth it?
Nope, sounds more like a supercharger with that amount of cash. Well adding a bit more to,it anyway.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 03:27 AM
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NO NO-----The new LT4 with a supercharger is that---a supercharger cam and is not designed to work best on a NA motor
When it comes to cam choices on a LT1 corvette DI engine---you basically have to make a choice
To retain the AFM (4 cylinder mode} or not
If you choose to retain AFM your cam choices become very limited---There is a limit on max lift and max duration-----These cam choices are very mild but the largest of them would give you a slight lope
NOW If you choose to DELETE the AFM system the cam choices become endless---
You can install a very aggressive cam and it will sound amazing
With a cam retaining AFM you can expect only about a 35 HP gain
But with deleting AFM you can easily expect a 100 HP gain !!!
PS On any aftermarket cam on the LT1 you must also install a VVT limiter kit--to prevent piston to valve contact-----AFM deleted or not-----
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tblu92
NO NO-----The new LT4 with a supercharger is that---a supercharger cam and is not designed to work best on a NA motor
Who are you NO NOing? Who said he should install an LT4 cam in the LT1? NO One....
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 10:07 AM
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Oh boy.....I used the AFM once on an 8 hour highway drive just to see what it would do for my MPG, that was 2 years ago and I'll never use it agisin as far as I'm concerned.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 02:08 PM
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I just don't get the AFM hate. I only notice mine when it's on a dash setting that shows it, and it comes on pretty rarely, like decel coasting and maybe flat-line cruising at highway speeds. Why would you want to get rid of it?

Also the Z06 has no lope. At least none to speak of. Blower cams don't like a lot of overlap.

I don't mind the sound of someone else's lumpy cam, I'll admit that, but they're like babies... nice to play with, but a lot of work to live with. I just don't want to live with annoying cold starts, poor driveability, and so on. If someone respected offered a cam+tune that retained stock driving manners, I'd probably look at it. I just don't know of any.

Last edited by davepl; Dec 26, 2016 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
I just don't get the AFM hate. I only notice mine when it's on a dash setting that shows it, and it comes on pretty rarely, like decel coasting and maybe flat-line cruising at highway speeds. Why would you want to get rid of it?

Also the Z06 has no lope. At least none to speak of. Blower cams don't like a lot of overlap.

I don't mind the sound of someone else's lumpy cam, I'll admit that, but they're like babies... nice to play with, but a lot of work to live with. I just don't want to live with annoying cold starts, poor driveability, and so on. If someone respected offered a cam+tune that retained stock driving manners, I'd probably look at it. I just don't know of any.
LPE GT35 should be pretty good. Still has negative overlap at .050.

AFM hate comes from the lifters being crap. RPM limited, prone to failure (a lot during the DoD days) etc. AFM is not a performance feature and generally when we talk about cam swaps it isn't for low RPM MPGs. It's for moving the power curve up and higher.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
AFM hate comes from the lifters being crap. RPM limited, prone to failure (a lot during the DoD days) etc. AFM is not a performance feature and generally when we talk about cam swaps it isn't for low RPM MPGs. It's for moving the power curve up and higher.
Thanks, makes sense. I don't hate it in the stock form, but I haven't had to contend with it for mods, so that's why I'm naive about it.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 10:57 AM
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OP, if you're going with a cam, the first question is whether you want to retain AFM/DOD or not, as there are significant price and power differences between AFM and non-AFM cams.

Even a baby stage 1 non-AFM cam will have significantly more aggressive lift, duration and overlap than the most aggressive AFM cams. With the non-AFM cam, you ditch the junk AFM lifters and associated plumbing and upgrade your valve springs (some guys do push rods, timing chain etc. too). So you'll have a better valve train for high rpm running, but you'll be paying for more parts (lifters, springs/retainers, valley tray, and miscellaneous at the least) and more labour vs. non-AFM. So if you're pricing it out there is definitely a parts and labour difference between the AFM and non-AFM cams. Ultimately the parts and especially labour (including tuning) cost for a cam swap is significant.

My '14 Z51 with a stage 1 Vengeance Racing non-AFM cam, ported heads and long tubes, has no drivability issues. It's a nice balanced combination with decent traction. If I did it again I wouldn't hesitate to go with a little bigger cam, although the stage 1 cam is blower friendly if I ever went that route.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 567Chev
OP, if you're going with a cam, the first question is whether you want to retain AFM/DOD or not, as there are significant price and power differences between AFM and non-AFM cams.

Even a baby stage 1 non-AFM cam will have significantly more aggressive lift, duration and overlap than the most aggressive AFM cams. With the non-AFM cam, you ditch the junk AFM lifters and associated plumbing and upgrade your valve springs (some guys do push rods, timing chain etc. too). So you'll have a better valve train for high rpm running, but you'll be paying for more parts (lifters, springs/retainers, valley tray, and miscellaneous at the least) and more labour vs. non-AFM. So if you're pricing it out there is definitely a parts and labour difference between the AFM and non-AFM cams. Ultimately the parts and especially labour (including tuning) cost for a cam swap is significant.

My '14 Z51 with a stage 1 Vengeance Racing non-AFM cam, ported heads and long tubes, has no drivability issues. It's a nice balanced combination with decent traction. If I did it again I wouldn't hesitate to go with a little bigger cam, although the stage 1 cam is blower friendly if I ever went that route.
That is exactly the set up I am thinking about. Already have long tubes and ported intake and TB. Did you get dyno numbers with this set-up. Would love to see your dyno sheet and results. Seems like some of the cam results I have seen on the LT1 sacrifice low end torque for high RPM horsepower,
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dovervold
That is exactly the set up I am thinking about. Already have long tubes and ported intake and TB. Did you get dyno numbers with this set-up. Would love to see your dyno sheet and results. Seems like some of the cam results I have seen on the LT1 sacrifice low end torque for high RPM horsepower,
I can try to dig it up. I recall it was up 85 rwhp at 3600 feet and made lots of power under the curve without any low rpm loss.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
I just don't get the AFM hate. I only notice mine when it's on a dash setting that shows it, and it comes on pretty rarely, like decel coasting and maybe flat-line cruising at highway speeds. Why would you want to get rid of it?

Also the Z06 has no lope. At least none to speak of. Blower cams don't like a lot of overlap.

I don't mind the sound of someone else's lumpy cam, I'll admit that, but they're like babies... nice to play with, but a lot of work to live with. I just don't want to live with annoying cold starts, poor driveability, and so on. If someone respected offered a cam+tune that retained stock driving manners, I'd probably look at it. I just don't know of any.
I had a C6 with ECS Paxton kit and a LG blower grind cam with a 115 LSA that sounded wicked at idle. Jeremy Formato fixed the tune and it drive BETTER than stock. Manners were perfect. I was able to lug in a high gear at less than idle with clutch out and zero bucking. Before Jeremy retuned it, it was a train wreck (I won't mention the shop that first tuned it but they sucked). The key to drivability with cam is great tune.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
I just don't get the AFM hate. I only notice mine when it's on a dash setting that shows it, and it comes on pretty rarely, like decel coasting and maybe flat-line cruising at highway speeds. Why would you want to get rid of it?

Also the Z06 has no lope. At least none to speak of. Blower cams don't like a lot of overlap.

I don't mind the sound of someone else's lumpy cam, I'll admit that, but they're like babies... nice to play with, but a lot of work to live with. I just don't want to live with annoying cold starts, poor driveability, and so on. If someone respected offered a cam+tune that retained stock driving manners, I'd probably look at it. I just don't know of any.
I had a C6 with ECS Paxton kit and a LG blower grind cam with a 115 LSA that sounded wicked at idle. Jeremy Formato fixed the tune and it drive BETTER than stock. Manners were perfect. I was able to lug in a high gear at less than idle with clutch out and zero bucking. Before Jeremy retuned it, it was a train wreck (I won't mention the shop that first tuned it but they sucked). The key to drivability with cam is great tune.
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
I don't mind the sound of someone else's lumpy cam, I'll admit that, but they're like babies... nice to play with, but a lot of work to live with. I just don't want to live with annoying cold starts, poor driveability, and so on. If someone respected offered a cam+tune that retained stock driving manners, I'd probably look at it. I just don't know of any.
I have a silly question. Can someone build a tune that will let the idle sound like an aftermarket cam was installed (so you get that nice hesitation sound that everyone wants) or that's not possible without actually changing the hardware (i.e. The cam itself)?
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06NJ
I have a silly question. Can someone build a tune that will let the idle sound like an aftermarket cam was installed (so you get that nice hesitation sound that everyone wants) or that's not possible without actually changing the hardware (i.e. The cam itself)?
That is commonly called a "ghost cam."

Lope is based on overlap. You can only change overlap with dual overhead cams. The small block Chevy is an overhead valve setup or cam in block setup.

Overlap is a function of valve events, namely the relationship between when the intake valve opens and when the exhaust valve closes. The more degrees that the intake opens before the exhaust closes the more overlap you have and the more lope you will have at idle. Overlap is ground into the cam with OHV applications. DOHC allows you to move the exhaust and intake cam lobes independently and create or remove overlap as needed.

To add: All you can do with the tune on an OHV car is destabilize the idle, which is not the same thing as lope, it's just running like crap.

Last edited by Higgs Boson; Dec 30, 2016 at 10:59 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 03:13 PM
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Higgs, on a DFI motor where you control both the injection time and the spark (but not the valve events) do you think you could replicate a lumpy cam in software, or would it just sound like nonsense?

Between the IAC, timing, and injection events you could "start" an ignition event sooner, then later, basically do the opposite of what idle stabilization does to -prevent- lumpy idles.

Still might just sound like crap. But if you could get a -rhythm- going, and no just random misfires, maybe it'd work. But I think they rhythm part is key, if you know what I mean. Not just unstable, but rhythmically so.

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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 05:32 PM
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