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Looking for opinions on the best practical tool for routine bleeding of the C7's brake system (routine periodic flushing, caliper and/or brake line replacement, etc).
Lots of people seem to like the Motive power bleeder system, and if that's the pick -- which Motive system/adapter works best with the C7's master cyl cap/fittings? I've been looking at their website, and there are lots of "GM" options.
I went out to the garage to look at my Motive that I've had for many years now. The box is kinda ragged and scuffed up, but I could still see "108" on the box.
I just went and looked at the Motive site, and I think you want the current model "0108 GM Bleeder Kit".
I see they now have different "adapters" and a connector on the tubing. It looks like you can easily swap adapters for different vehicles now, which is a good feature.
You can see below that my Motive does not have the connector. Actually I had to replace the tubing a couple years ago, but the original one is shown in the old photo below, and it's just a single piece of tubing.
A couple things:
I DO NOT put brake fluid into the jug!! Any brake fluid that remains in there after a bleed is basically trash if you don't use it within a few days, or probably a week or two at most.
I just top off the master cylinder and use the Motive as a pressure source to push the new fluid into/through the system. I pump it up to 8-10 psi and it pushes the fluid out of the cracked bleed valves on the calipers just fine.
You need to make sure you keep the m/c topped off after each wheel so you don't let it get empty and pump air into the lines.
I love the Motive Power Bleeder - makes bleeding all by myself a piece-of-cake!!!
Below I was using it on my C6, but I've used it on a buddy's C5, and I currently use it on my C7:
I have the metal adapter and it's part number 1118, I think. Need to double check.
I've had my Motive for awhile, but only used it for the first time a few months ago flushing the brakes on my GMC Sierra. I ran across the guy below on YouTube and modified my bleeder to do as Bob mentions above, just using it as a pressure adapter, not actually filling the container with brake fluid. This keeps you from having to re-pump each time you add more fluid to the reservoir.
Thanks guys! That's exactly the type of experienced info I was hoping for!
And, yes, it definitely sounds like the 'dry' pressure method is the safest, and easiest -- no old brake fluid in the tank to clean out afterwards, and no chance of spraying brake fluid all over the engine compartment/fender if there's a leak!
Any thoughts or recommendations on brake fluid for 99% street use? Stick with the OEM DOT3 stuff?
Thanks guys! That's exactly the type of experienced info I was hoping for!
And, yes, it definitely sounds like the 'dry' pressure method is the safest, and easiest -- no old brake fluid in the tank to clean out afterwards, and no chance of spraying brake fluid all over the engine compartment/fender if there's a leak!
Any thoughts or recommendations on brake fluid for 99% street use? Stick with the OEM DOT3 stuff?
Yes, although I would go to a Ford dealer and purchase their Motorcraft Hi Performance DOT 3 fluid. It may come from the same manufacturer as GM buys their fluid but Ford specifies the dry boiling point on their fluid (500 degrees F) which is a very good dry boiling point. It equals some racing brake fluid dry boiling points and is lower cost.
When it was spec'd at 550 degrees 10 years ago I used it exclusively in my C5Z06 on and off track. I would drive the Vette to the Ford dealer walk into the parts department and buy a case of brake fluid. As Grass Roots Motorsports said at the time it was the best kept secret in racing.
Great idea for a cleaner brake fluid swap. Thanks for the idea guys. I have a universal Motive Power Bleeder in a box, I just need the GM adapter... ordered. To take this even a step further... since all we are using the power bleeder for is an air source you could do the same with one of those several gallon yard sprayers. Probably only have to pump it up once for an entire bleed job.
An interesting note: My master cylinder cap specifies "DOT4" but my owner's manual says "DOT3". I know the two are compatible, with DOT4 supposedly having slightly better temp specs and viscosity, but it would be nice if the Car markings would correspond to the OM!
The clutch cap has DOT4 stamped on it. The brake cap is DOT3.
Which Bleeder for C7?
Any brake fluid that remains in there after a bleed is basically trash if you don't use it within a few days, or probably a week or two at most. 
