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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 11:19 AM
  #1  
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Default Brake Squeal

Put Hawk HP+ pads on stock rotors. Starting squealing after a few hundred miles. Now has about 800 miles since I put the pads on. Rotors are the originals and it still squealing. Car has 28.6k on a 2014. Has anybody had this problem? I met a guy this week who has a 2014 and stock rotors and pads and it was squealing also.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 12:12 PM
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There are very specific procedures for breaking in new pads/rotors, even if we are talking about the brakes on a brand new stock C7. Go to Hawks website or just google "how to condition or break in new brakes".

Below is one good explanation and pretty much the technique I've used to help friends with new C7s with squealing brakes. Others prefer other techniques.

**************************************** ***********

Bedding In Brake Rotors

Anytime you install new brake rotors, brake pads, or both, it's advantageous to bed in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes is just an industry term to explain breaking in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes helps transfer an even layer of brake pad material onto the brake rotor which assists in smoother brake operation and improved braking power.

Having a uniform layer of pad material on the brake rotor is essential to minimizing brake squeal and vibration. For this procedure, you will need a good stretch of road and no traffic.

Use common sense and take precaution as BrakePerformance does not take responsibility for erratic driving, accidents, or damages done.

Note: When using Brake Performance Zinc-Coated rotors, as soon as you start braking, the friction from the pads will strip the zinc from the pad surface, turning it Silver and leaving the holes, slots, and the rest of the rotor zinc coated in the color you selected.

Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material.

Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don't think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it's required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don't want them to overlap.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sandu002
Put Hawk HP+ pads on stock rotors. Starting squealing after a few hundred miles. Now has about 800 miles since I put the pads on. Rotors are the originals and it still squealing. Car has 28.6k on a 2014. Has anybody had this problem? I met a guy this week who has a 2014 and stock rotors and pads and it was squealing also.
What was the reason for going with HP+? Reason I ask is they are know to make noise are you tracking the car? (Not that the HP+ is a true track pad)
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Last edited by Carbotech Adam; Sep 29, 2017 at 02:33 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com
What was the reason for going with HP+? Reason I ask is they are know to make noise are you tracking the car? (Not that the HP+ is a true track pad)
I have used HP+ on other cars and liked the response for the street. I found this set on eBay for a cheaper price than the stock pads. My stock pads were pretty low and I was going on a 3 day trip thru the Blue Ridge including the Back of the Dragon and the Tail of the Dragon. We also had 2 20 min sessions at VIR the following day.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 03:05 PM
  #5  
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Default

Originally Posted by B747VET
There are very specific procedures for breaking in new pads/rotors, even if we are talking about the brakes on a brand new stock C7. Go to Hawks website or just google "how to condition or break in new brakes".

Below is one good explanation and pretty much the technique I've used to help friends with new C7s with squealing brakes. Others prefer other techniques.

**************************************** ***********

Bedding In Brake Rotors

Anytime you install new brake rotors, brake pads, or both, it's advantageous to bed in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes is just an industry term to explain breaking in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes helps transfer an even layer of brake pad material onto the brake rotor which assists in smoother brake operation and improved braking power.

Having a uniform layer of pad material on the brake rotor is essential to minimizing brake squeal and vibration. For this procedure, you will need a good stretch of road and no traffic.

Use common sense and take precaution as BrakePerformance does not take responsibility for erratic driving, accidents, or damages done.

Note: When using Brake Performance Zinc-Coated rotors, as soon as you start braking, the friction from the pads will strip the zinc from the pad surface, turning it Silver and leaving the holes, slots, and the rest of the rotor zinc coated in the color you selected.

Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material.

Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don't think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it's required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don't want them to overlap.
I stopped the dealer today and they said pretty much the same thing. I will go out and do another round of bedding. I have done many rotor and/or pad changes before and never experienced this before.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 03:06 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by sandu002
I have used HP+ on other cars and liked the response for the street. I found this set on eBay for a cheaper price than the stock pads. My stock pads were pretty low and I was going on a 3 day trip thru the Blue Ridge including the Back of the Dragon and the Tail of the Dragon. We also had 2 20 min sessions at VIR the following day.
Ok well your noise issue is more than likely the pads. Try to bed them again or take them out and put some high temp lube on the backing plates.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 06:57 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com
Ok well your noise issue is more than likely the pads. Try to bed them again or take them out and put some high temp lube on the backing plates.
Thanks. I plan to re-bed them and I will lube the backing plates.
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Old Sep 30, 2017 | 12:48 PM
  #8  
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Went out this morning and re-bedded the pads. No more squeal.
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