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Hello guys.Been a c7 owner for a year now and absolutely love it and want to thank all the guys here for all there knowledge and help. My latest issue is that I went ahead and lowered all 4 corners of my c7 to lowest adjustment I could make with the factory lowering bolts,The rear came out about the same heights with each other however the front measurements ended up with the passenger side being about 1/4" lower than front driver side.This is on level ground and after some miles driven. So I just raised the passenger side up some to agree with drivers side. Is this what I should be doing? Know any reasoning for this? I just wanna know I'm at correct thinking before a good alignment? Any thoughts on aftermarket bolts before I do this?? Thanks again guys!!
Last edited by Gary barnes 1098; Oct 8, 2017 at 11:29 AM.
Reason: Bold print
The car is supposed to have some forward rake (lower in the front) for optimal handling and aero. I don't know the actual numbers or if that's important to you.
My latest issue is that I went ahead and lowered all 4 corners of my c7 to lowest adjustment I could make with the factory lowering bolts,The rear came out about the same heights with each other however the front measurements ended up with the passenger side being about 1/4" lower than front driver side.This is on level ground and after some miles driven. So I just raised the passenger side up some to agree with drivers side. Is this what I should be doing?
Go find a set of scales and have the car corner weighted.
What you want is for both front tires to carry the same load and both rear tires to carry the same load, AND the cross weights to be balanced.
I would not even worry about a 1/4" difference. Particularly not if the driver side was 1/4" higher. I tend to be the only driver on my C7, 90 percent of the time with no passenger. Under that condition your ride might be completely level, given your weight compressing the suspension on the driver side.
You should always use a ballast (a person, old rotors, your workout weights, whatever you can find) before you measure the heights. I also use full tank of fuel, but some prefer 50% or so. Once you do adjustments and lower the car back to the ground, you should also shake the car on door sills as hard as you can (usually no need to actually jump on it) to make it settle. Once all these steps are either done or in check for consistency, you can check the heights. In my experience, adding driver equalizes the fronts and also makes a few mm of difference at the rear from side to side, depending on the fuel level you chose to go with.
Regarding getting good height measurements
Ever since I removed and inspected my coilovers, and realizing it was not springs' culprit, I was trying to make sense of why it settled so much after initial install. I have been testing various ideas, and I think I finally have a much better idea.
Here are a few tips/remarks I came up with (some I knew, some I realized recently):
Drive a bit, only then fine-tune: Once you do the initial setup, you should drive a bit, try to load the suspension a bit, and get back to the garage to re-measure. This made measurable difference. Perhaps it gets rid of any binding control arms get into during the install?
Roll back and forth: I just realized about this. Do you remember alignment shops moving the tires back and forth? That actually makes a difference, especially if you're on a platform (like the wheel cribs I used). On my wheel cribs it helped the tires center themselves better. Since the wheel cribs' available tire patch space is very limited, I needed to put them dead-center, especially at the rear with the 325 tires.
No hand brake or gear: It goes without saying, that you should not have the hand brakes or leave it on a gear. It also means it has to be as flat as possible, but I'm hoping you've ensured that already.
What you do effects the cross-weight: This must be obvious when you think about it, or if you ever corner-weight-balanced a car. For instance, if you increase the height of LF, most of the weight transfer will move to the RR. This will also mean that you will need to check back and forth on cross corners when you're making major adjustments.
If using platform/cribs, make sure to verify the measurements on the ground: Especially if you're using very large tires, the cribs/platforms might alter the numbers.
The car is finished, ready for alignment. I plan to be attending the ORP track day on 25th Aug.
I gave utmost care to settling the suspension. Below is my method to settle to suspension and ensure consistency, if not accuracy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhrQPRPmBz4
Move car back and forth on the cribs
Jump over each side's door sill for a good 10-15 seconds, as hard as you can.
I dropped on the factory bolts last Friday. I went down all the way on all corners, then went 3/4 turn back up upfront, 1 full rotation on the rear bolts. Car settled nicely, even all around. Unlike my Camaro, the c7 will not be tracked. It's a weekend twisty backroads kind of car, about 2k miles per season. Anything I should be aware of now that it's re trimmed? I obviously took some suspension travel away in all 3 modes (car has MRC/PTM). Anything specific to watch for or avoid? Thanks
Sorry, should also mention I upgraded to aftermarket wheels 19x9.5 48offset front, 20x11 73mm rear. So 1” wider all around, However, still running stock tires. The car’s a 16 Stingray z51.
Gary, I agree with above comments, but I'm curious... did you measure it before you adjusted it?
Do you know if it was even from side-to-side before you started? Many don't check and if they end up with differences they are more noticeable lowered and super focused on height they then get concerned, often needlessly.
^^^I did, several times, several surfaces. Dead center of each wheel well, as well as rocker and facia edges. All readings revealed as little as 1/16 to as much as 1/8 difference all around. Generally, slighly different, but nothing your eye will pick up
For whatever it's worth, my car ended up with a 3/8" difference comparing one front corner to the other, when adjusted for proper corner weights. The corner weights were adjusted with me sitting in the car. The ride heights were measured with the car empty.
I would not be concerned about 1/4" difference between corners. I would be concerned that you lowered the car too much and are possibly sitting on bumpstops. If you care.