2015 totally dead - advice please
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Poughkeepsie NY
2015 totally dead - advice please
Went to clean the car for storage and it appears the battery is totally dead. Doors wouldn’t open nor would the trunk. Not even any lights. I used the hidden key to open the trunk. I’m afraid to use my bigger charger so I used the supplied corvette trickle charger. The car started to make a on and off buzzing sound that seemed to go away. Is it common for these to be so totally dead the doors don’t even open? Are batteries covered under the warrantee? I drove the car less than a week ago. Are 2015’s notorious for failing batteries or could something else be wrong
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,960
Likes: 1,106
Battery is under the bumper to bumper coverage so it is covered. And batteries do die, often with no warning.
Contact your dealer and see if they want to flatbed it in or try to use a jump pack to start it and get it to the dealer.
You could replace the battery yourself but it is a warranty item AND if there is another issue that caused it to die then that may confuse the issue in the future if the replacement also dies.
The OBD-II port has a constant on power source so anything left plugged into it will drain the battery as will anything plugged into the rear lighter port since it is intended for the battery maintainer and does not have its output controlled by the RAP system.
Contact your dealer and see if they want to flatbed it in or try to use a jump pack to start it and get it to the dealer.
You could replace the battery yourself but it is a warranty item AND if there is another issue that caused it to die then that may confuse the issue in the future if the replacement also dies.
The OBD-II port has a constant on power source so anything left plugged into it will drain the battery as will anything plugged into the rear lighter port since it is intended for the battery maintainer and does not have its output controlled by the RAP system.
Moderator emeritus
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 18,599
Likes: 3,951
From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
Once you kill the battery, the Corvette trickle charger won't do much for a dead battery. You need to access the battery in the rear of the car and slap a real battery charger on it. Personally, I'd keep a close eye on the battery as it may have warped a plate (unless its an agm). If it holds the charge, then put the maintainer on it every time you park it for storage.
Elmer
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Dec 7, 2017 at 01:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Poughkeepsie NY
It seems like the battery is taking a charge. It’s up to 61%. Wouldn’t do much until I unhooked the neg lead. What would cause the battery to be bone dead within a week. Maybe it’ll throw a code when I fire it up. I’m currently charging it at 10a
Once you kill the battery, the Corvette trickle charger won't do much for a dead battery. You need to access the battery in the rear of the car and slap a real battery charger on it. Personally, I'd keep a close eye on the battery as it may have warped a plate (unless its an agm). If it holds the charge, then put the maintainer on it every time you park it for storage.
Elmer
Elmer
Last edited by rosecustom; Dec 7, 2017 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Added text
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,699
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
Once you kill the battery, the Corvette trickle charger won't do much for a dead battery. You need to access the battery in the rear of the car and slap a real battery charger on it. Personally, I'd keep a close eye on the battery as it may have warped a plate (unless its an agm). If it holds the charge, then put the maintainer on it every time you park it for storage.
Elmer
Elmer
Moderator emeritus
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 18,599
Likes: 3,951
From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
No, that is not accurate. The post is not a good place to charge the car with a full blown charger. The post will work just great for the c-tek battery maintainer but not a charger. The owner's manual for the C6 said you could do that but the text was removed in the C7.
I believe it says that in the owner's manual. Well, I just looked and didn't find it. It must be on the forum. Something about the terminal in the car not having a large enough cable to handle the amps or whatever. In any case, the OM calls for the jump to be at the battery in the rear of the car.
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Dec 8, 2017 at 11:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Poughkeepsie NY
So the battery took a charge and now reads 100% as of this morning with no errors according to the readout on the charger. I’m concerned with what drained the battery in the first place. I’m kinda hoping I’ll get an error code when I hook the battery back up. To make thing worse we have snow on the way tomorrow so essentially I’m outa time. I’ll post the next chapter
No, that is not accurate. The post is not a good place to charge the car with a full blown charger. The post will work just great for the c-tek battery maintainer but not a charger.
I believe it says that in the owner's manual. Well, I just looked and didn't find it. It must be on the forum. Something about the terminal in the car not having a large enough cable to handle the amps or whatever. In any case, the OM calls for the jump to be at the battery in the rear of the car.
Elmer
I believe it says that in the owner's manual. Well, I just looked and didn't find it. It must be on the forum. Something about the terminal in the car not having a large enough cable to handle the amps or whatever. In any case, the OM calls for the jump to be at the battery in the rear of the car.
Elmer
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 1,659
From: Las Vegas NV
Check for drains before you do anything else, of course, but don't be surprised if it was just its time to be replaced.
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Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 19,941
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From: Bonneville Salt Flats
I've found OEM batteries to be all over the ballpark with regard to longevity (or, lack there of) even with the same model vehicle. My new C5 barely went two years. A bud's five. My Ram over 11 years when totaled. Best of luck with it!!!
Last edited by Avanti; Dec 9, 2017 at 12:30 AM.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 500
Likes: 259
You did not mention how long the car had been idle when you found the battery dead. I have had two C6s and currently have a C7(2015).
You should know that there are several "gizmos" running off the battery at all times. Since my first C6, which I let the battery run flat one time, I have never gone more than a week without plugging that rascal in to the trickle charger.
You should know that there are several "gizmos" running off the battery at all times. Since my first C6, which I let the battery run flat one time, I have never gone more than a week without plugging that rascal in to the trickle charger.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 1,659
From: Las Vegas NV
You did not mention how long the car had been idle when you found the battery dead. I have had two C6s and currently have a C7(2015).
You should know that there are several "gizmos" running off the battery at all times. Since my first C6, which I let the battery run flat one time, I have never gone more than a week without plugging that rascal in to the trickle charger.
You should know that there are several "gizmos" running off the battery at all times. Since my first C6, which I let the battery run flat one time, I have never gone more than a week without plugging that rascal in to the trickle charger.
Had 2 C6’s and now a C7 - they all sat for 2-3 weeks on a semi-regular basis when I traveled (sometimes at the airport, sometimes in my garage), and always started right up when I returned.
Of course, if you’re parking it in extreme conditions (-20 below in ND or something) your time may be shorter! LOL
Race Director
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From: moraga ca
No, that is not accurate. The post is not a good place to charge the car with a full blown charger. The post will work just great for the c-tek battery maintainer but not a charger. The owner's manual for the C6 said you could do that but the text was removed in the C7.
I believe it says that in the owner's manual. Well, I just looked and didn't find it. It must be on the forum. Something about the terminal in the car not having a large enough cable to handle the amps or whatever. In any case, the OM calls for the jump to be at the battery in the rear of the car.
Elmer
I believe it says that in the owner's manual. Well, I just looked and didn't find it. It must be on the forum. Something about the terminal in the car not having a large enough cable to handle the amps or whatever. In any case, the OM calls for the jump to be at the battery in the rear of the car.
Elmer
Last edited by 383vett; Dec 10, 2017 at 09:06 PM.
Moderator emeritus
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From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
Well if it's not in the manual and somewhere in the forum, it must be fact. Maybe gm put it there to hook up trouble lights. I have charged my 16Z with a "real" charger using this post and the car did not go up in flames. There is a big difference between jumping and charging; something like 50 amps vs 15 amps.
I would conclude that the presence of 15 and 20 amps fuses in the engine bay fuse block would suggest the limit of amperage on the cable going back to the battery.
Charging the car and jumping the car are different, I agree. People will do both from that post in the engine bay and I suggest that may cause problems.
The owner's Manual is a ****. First it says to jump the car, there are two spots.
Jump Starting the Battery
The battery is in the rear of the
vehicle. Access to the battery is not
necessary for jump starting. There
are remote positive (+) and negative
(−) terminals under the hood for this
purpose. See Battery on page 10-30
and Jump Starting on page 10-65.
The battery is in the rear of the
vehicle. Access to the battery is not
necessary for jump starting. There
are remote positive (+) and negative
(−) terminals under the hood for this
purpose. See Battery on page 10-30
and Jump Starting on page 10-65.
When you go to Jump Starting on page 10-65, the 2 choices go away and only one choice is shown for jumping the car.
Jump Starting
For more information about the
vehicle battery, see Battery on
page 10-30.
If the battery has run down, use
another vehicle and some jumper
cables to start the vehicle. Be sure
to use the following steps to do it
safely.
{Warning
Batteries can hurt you. They can
be dangerous because:
. They contain acid that can
burn you.
. They contain gas that can
explode or ignite.
. They contain enough
electricity to burn you.
If you do not follow these steps
exactly, some or all of these
things can hurt you.
{Caution
Ignoring these steps could result
in costly damage to the vehicle
that would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty. Trying to start
the vehicle by pushing or pulling it
will not work, and it could damage
the vehicle.
The battery is under a battery cover
in the hatch/trunk area on the
passenger side under the carpet.
Before you connect the cables, here
are some basic things you should
know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) terminal. Negative (−)
will go the negative (−) terminal.
1. Discharged Battery Positive (+)
Terminal
2. Discharged Battery Negative (−)
Terminal
3. Good Battery Negative (−)
Terminal
4. Good Battery Positive (+)
Terminal
1. Check the other vehicle. It must
have a 12-volt battery with a
negative ground system.
{Caution
If the other vehicle does not have
a 12-volt system with a negative
ground, both vehicles can be
damaged. Only use a vehicle that
has a 12-volt system with a
negative ground for jump starting.
2. Get the vehicles close enough
so the jumper cables can reach,
but be sure the vehicles are not
touching each other. If they are,
it could cause a ground
connection you do not want. You
would not be able to start the
vehicle, and the bad grounding
could damage the electrical
systems.
To avoid the possibility of the
vehicles rolling, set the parking
brake firmly on both vehicles
involved in the jump start
procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in P (Park) or a
manual transmission in Neutral
before setting the parking
brakes.
{Caution
If any accessories are left on or
plugged in during the jump
starting procedure, they could be
damaged. The repairs would not
be covered by the vehicle
warranty. Whenever possible, turn
off or unplug all accessories on
either vehicle when jump starting.
3. Turn off the ignition on both
vehicles. Unplug unnecessary
accessories plugged into the
cigarette lighter or the accessory
power outlet. Turn off the radio
and all lamps that are not
needed. This will avoid sparks
and help save both batteries.
And it could save the radio!
4. Open the rear hatch and lift the
carpet on the passenger side of
the vehicle to gain access to the
battery cover.
5. Remove the battery cover and
locate the positive (+) and
negative (−) terminals.
6. Check that the jumper cables do
not have loose or missing
insulation. If they do, you could
get a shock. The vehicles could
be damaged too.
7. Open the positive terminal trim
cover and connect the red
positive (+) cable to the
positive (+) terminal (1) of the
dead battery.
8. Do not let the other end touch
metal. Connect it to the
positive (+) terminal (4) of the
good battery.
9. Now connect the black negative
(−) cable to the negative (−)
terminal (3) of the good battery.
Do not let the other end touch
anything until the next step.
10. Connect the other end of the
negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal (2) on the
dead battery.
11. Now start the vehicle with the
good battery and run the
engine for a while.
12. Try to start the vehicle that had
the dead battery. If it will not
start after a few tries, it
probably needs service
For more information about the
vehicle battery, see Battery on
page 10-30.
If the battery has run down, use
another vehicle and some jumper
cables to start the vehicle. Be sure
to use the following steps to do it
safely.
{Warning
Batteries can hurt you. They can
be dangerous because:
. They contain acid that can
burn you.
. They contain gas that can
explode or ignite.
. They contain enough
electricity to burn you.
If you do not follow these steps
exactly, some or all of these
things can hurt you.
{Caution
Ignoring these steps could result
in costly damage to the vehicle
that would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty. Trying to start
the vehicle by pushing or pulling it
will not work, and it could damage
the vehicle.
The battery is under a battery cover
in the hatch/trunk area on the
passenger side under the carpet.
Before you connect the cables, here
are some basic things you should
know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) terminal. Negative (−)
will go the negative (−) terminal.
1. Discharged Battery Positive (+)
Terminal
2. Discharged Battery Negative (−)
Terminal
3. Good Battery Negative (−)
Terminal
4. Good Battery Positive (+)
Terminal
1. Check the other vehicle. It must
have a 12-volt battery with a
negative ground system.
{Caution
If the other vehicle does not have
a 12-volt system with a negative
ground, both vehicles can be
damaged. Only use a vehicle that
has a 12-volt system with a
negative ground for jump starting.
2. Get the vehicles close enough
so the jumper cables can reach,
but be sure the vehicles are not
touching each other. If they are,
it could cause a ground
connection you do not want. You
would not be able to start the
vehicle, and the bad grounding
could damage the electrical
systems.
To avoid the possibility of the
vehicles rolling, set the parking
brake firmly on both vehicles
involved in the jump start
procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in P (Park) or a
manual transmission in Neutral
before setting the parking
brakes.
{Caution
If any accessories are left on or
plugged in during the jump
starting procedure, they could be
damaged. The repairs would not
be covered by the vehicle
warranty. Whenever possible, turn
off or unplug all accessories on
either vehicle when jump starting.
3. Turn off the ignition on both
vehicles. Unplug unnecessary
accessories plugged into the
cigarette lighter or the accessory
power outlet. Turn off the radio
and all lamps that are not
needed. This will avoid sparks
and help save both batteries.
And it could save the radio!
4. Open the rear hatch and lift the
carpet on the passenger side of
the vehicle to gain access to the
battery cover.
5. Remove the battery cover and
locate the positive (+) and
negative (−) terminals.
6. Check that the jumper cables do
not have loose or missing
insulation. If they do, you could
get a shock. The vehicles could
be damaged too.
7. Open the positive terminal trim
cover and connect the red
positive (+) cable to the
positive (+) terminal (1) of the
dead battery.
8. Do not let the other end touch
metal. Connect it to the
positive (+) terminal (4) of the
good battery.
9. Now connect the black negative
(−) cable to the negative (−)
terminal (3) of the good battery.
Do not let the other end touch
anything until the next step.
10. Connect the other end of the
negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal (2) on the
dead battery.
11. Now start the vehicle with the
good battery and run the
engine for a while.
12. Try to start the vehicle that had
the dead battery. If it will not
start after a few tries, it
probably needs service
Sigh....
I'm going to stand by my comment, jump at the battery and that is totally without the stupid manual helping!
ADDING INFO: I just went through the 2015 manual and there is NO mention of a 2nd location to jump the car. They have seen the error of their ways and corrected the language to remove the under hood reference. The only recommended location to jump start the car is at the battery located in the rear of the car. The 2 locations to jump start are only mentioned (half-way) in the 2014 manual.
Note: My C-Tek is connected to the under hood post at the fuse box.
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Dec 11, 2017 at 12:59 PM. Reason: Added 2015 manual information.