With Carbon Ceramic rotor Z07 option, considering a new electronic/digital Torque wrench to replace my aging analog one.

Any recommendations? Quality? Price/Value?

Thanks!

 

Generally I think the idea is appealing but the reality is it's unnecessary.

 

I have a 3/8 Snap-on.... I like it a lot. Bought for my Ducati's. But use it on the C7 from time to time.

 

I needed a new torque wrench as my 50 year US made Craftsman needed to be calibrated and no one seems to know how to do that anymore in the US.

There was a vendor selling a cheapo one here a while back. I got it and it was a total waste of $. By the time I would move from one wheel to the next, the frigging thing would turn itself off and it was a real PITA as you have to reset your torque setting each time! JUNK!!!

I tossed it and got a click type. Not much made in the US anymore. The click type works great even though it came from China.

 

I got this Craftsman Torque Wrench and works well to do the lug nuts. It does go on sale for 75.00.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-i...4&blockType=G4

 

Well, the first thing I'll say is do you know what range of torque values you need to use? Because 1 wrench will do not do it.

You have small thing that require in-lbs, and things that require small #'s of ft-lb, and some things that require lots of ft-lbs. That's 3 different wrenches.

How precise do you want to be vs need to be?

Unless you are rebuilding engines, you probably don't requrie a wrench that also measures torque angles, You probably don't need a 250 ft-lb scale.

Ideally, you want to use a wrench where the applied torque value is between 1/4 and 3/4 of full scale. That is where most wrenches are most accurate.

Ok, that said, most people would be completely ok using a Harbor Freight Tools 1/4" or 3/8" Drive 0-25 ft-lb and a 1/2" drive 0-150 ft-lb Those two should cover just about anything, and they have been tested as being accurate enough +-3% over the useful range.

Yes, you can buy a really expensive torque wrench, and have it calibrated, be all happy with +-2%.. but in the real world.. it doesn't matter.

Yes, I've got a couple of HFT torque wrenches, (I've also got a Snap-On, a wrench that measures torque angles, and an electrontic torque application meter)

Guess which ones I grab for working on cars? (most stuff, but not rebuilding engines...) The HFT wrenches.

If you are feeling really ****, you can set the wrench to some number in the operating range, clamp the wrench in a bench vise, and hang weights on the wrench to test it. Yes, it might require some math, but you could build your own calibration table for the wrench... Well it gives you something to do on cold winter days.

(just be glad you don't have to torque steam turbine casing bolts on a submarine. induction heaters to heat the bolts, micrometers to meaure bolt stretch, 1000 ft-lb torque multipliers...)

 

I've been happy overall with this one:

http://www.brownlinemetalworks.com/torque-wrench

Feels well made. Operationally it works well, with the caveat that you need to be aware how the peak hold feature works.

It does go through batteries faster than expected - seems like they drain very slowly when in storage. A bit annoying, but not a deal breaker.

 

I think it matters on how you want to use the wrench. I have a 25 plus year old KD something or other that I purchased off a stand at an auto parts store. It is a click type wrench and it is perfect for tightening lug nuts. I can go around the car very quickly torquing the nuts just be bending over a little and don't have to strain to see a read out of gauge mounted on the wrench. Click, click, click. To maintain accuracy on what ever wrench you purchase be sure to zero it after each use. Do not store it with any torque setting other than zero.

Bill

 

Thanks. That was my mistake with my original Cobalt Micrometer Torque Wrench even though the owner's manual indicated that it wasn't necessary to return the wrench to the lowest calibrated value after each use, unless you plan to store it for a lengthy period. I kept it at 100 pounds for the Corvette and often forgot to readjust or reset when using on other cars. Some of the newer digital wrenches provide both visual and vibrating alarms when you close in on the desired pressure.

 

Thanks. This is one of the models I was considering.

 

I bought the Brownline unit a few years back and still use it. The operation of the wrench seemed a bit complex at first - but once I read (and followed) the directions a second time, it's now a smooth routine. The biggest stumbling block I had with it is if you're not using the torque wrench to take another pull within about 15 seconds of the last one, the wrench displays the torque actually applied on that last pull, requiring pressing of the memory button to get it ready for the next pull and enabling the audible alert. It kind of encourages you to move along from one fastener to the next - for instance torquing the five lugs on one wheel and then by the time you walk to the next wheel you'll need to depress the memory button. The wrench will power itself off after being idle for about two minutes. The wrench I have is 1/2" drive, and it is a rather large unit - long and a beefy handle.

 

I use CDI torque wrenches and they held up well so far. I set them to the same torque setting they had when I opened the package (one at 50 and the other at 20). The latest one I purchased last year (set at 20ftlb) was manufactured and calibrated 5 years prior. I called CDI and was told no problem and when I checked the setting on my digital gauge it was right on. If it's a quality tool it should not bother it sitting on a specific setting. Now the two old craftsman ones I have sitting in the back of the tool cabinet are another story and that's why they have not been used for many years

 

When the ratchet part on my click type craftsman 1/2 inch starting giving way I considered an electronic model. Even looked at Snap-on, until I looked at the price. My decision against them was because I didn't want to deal with batteries. Sure they probably last a long time.

I ended up fixing my Craftsman by buying the a new ratchet/gear and then I found a local one man shop that calibrates all types of tools for local businesses.

I was able to watch him test my torque wrenches (I brought 3 with me). It was interesting to watch him and he showed me how he could manipulate the readings. For example, your hand must only be in the grip part. If you move it up or down the bar, even slightly, the readings change. Pull real fast, yep different readings.

What I learned is you need to only touch the bar with one hand on the grip and pull slow and steady.

 

I have an old Craftsman click Torque Wrench which has stayed in calibration for many years. I bought this: which can be used as a digital torque wrench along with a breaker bar or, you can use it to calibrate your wrench periodically. Cheap and about 98% accurate.

 

google ''snapon torque wrench'',and find the ''REAL' manufacture,,they are in ill.[bensonville?],just outside of Chicago,,but using a ''click-type'' wrench is better,,

and remember to take out the batterys in your electronic wrench,i just tried my $400+ snapon 3/8'' and the batterys fryed,and snapon says its more to fix it then it worth

 

I bought a fixed 100 lb/ft torque wrench for doing wheels. No need to worry about batteries or setting it.

 

That is OK if the torque spec of all of your vehicle wheels are 100 lb/ft. I have three vehicles and one is 100, another is 110, and another is 140.

 

I've been using a Delco ARM 602 they are a tad over $50 on Amazon and since you always have to have a breaker bar anyway, these take up less room There is a 3/8 drive also. Nice thing about them is you get an audible alarm as you approach and get to the set torque.

 

I just grabbed this off Amazon. Same-day delivery even, it'll be here today! $58 but it goes up to 150 ft-lbs.

https://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM...+wrench+torque

For doing wheels, though, I use torque sticks and an impact:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The first 4-5 times I used them I went around with the torque wrench after, and they were always within 2-3 lb ft. So now I trust them and only check one nut on each wheel afterwards :-0

 

I am glad I didn't buy that one almost done it. But ended up also with a good snap on set up..