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I want to upgrade my speakers and subs in my vette but want to keep factory head unit, have done a little research and wondering what setups others have done, I used to have Hertz high energy 3 way components in my last vehicle and loved them so am leaning to getting those and jl stealth box but am curious as to what other people have done, also not sure about what amp to go with and other things I need...
In order to get the best sound possible while using your factory radio you will need to go with a DSP (Digital Sound Processor) The speaker outputs coming out of the factory Bose systems are time aligned, EQ'd and crossed over. A DSP will strip those settings into a clean flat signal and then you apply your own settings to the outputs to your new amplifiers. A 3-way component set and a centre channel with a sub would sound really good. As for amplifiers, it all comes down to how much power you want to make.
In order to get the best sound possible while using your factory radio you will need to go with a DSP (Digital Sound Processor)
Based on my research and past experience with BOSE the statement above is accurate. You have to replace everything because its a system. So the radio stays (it must since it controls other vehicle features), then add a DSP for EQ (equalization) and TA (time alignment), from there add whatever amps you need to power the aftermarket speakers as needed. I would ditch the factory sub for sure. I had an Alpine DSP in my two other vehicles and it sounded amazing!
I'm running an LC8i. I replaced all the speakers (doors included). In a nutshell I had to splice into the factory amplifier outputs and run those to the input side to my LC8i and re solder the wires. From there the LC8 converts and sums the signal for all channels and sends the converted low voltage signal via (RCA) to the input side of my amps. The output then goes back to where i made my initial splice and it reconnects to the out going speaker wires.
There is no comparison in sound.
Also a problem you might run into depending on the level of work done is interference from the mic that picks up signal for sound cancellation. You have to disable it..
Also a problem you might run into depending on the level of work done is interference from the mic that picks up signal for sound cancellation. You have to disable it.
For sure. Based on my experience that AudioPilot feature is pretty much worthless once you go aftermarket since its compensation is based on the factory speaker frequency response. Glad to know the LC8i works, that make things pretty straight forward. However if you using the BOSE amp signal then you've still got all the factory EQ / DSP stuff applied messing up the signal. Instead I would go with a JL Audio Fix: http://www.jlaudio.com/fix-82-car-au...egration-98100
The Bose equalization/signal manipulation is volume dependent. Any DSP or devices like the Fix82 are at set up/tuned one volume making what they do a compromise. The only way to fully get rid of the Bose stuff is to get the NAVTV M650-GM, Axxess AX-DSP-MOST1, or PAC ap4-gm61. The AX-DSP-MOST1 has a built in DSP which can be a plus (DSP included) or a negative (cannot totally defeated to use your preferred DSP). The PAC AP4-GM61 is new to the market and hasn't been proved yet. The M650-GM and reportedly the AP4-GM61 are the only devices currently available that will produce a pure unadulterated output from the OEM sound system.
That's not to say you cannot get a better than stock results without the M650-GM/AP4-GM61/AX-DSP-MOST1. However to take it to the top level of sound you will need one of them.
For sure. Based on my experience that AudioPilot feature is pretty much worthless once you go aftermarket since its compensation is based on the factory speaker frequency response. Glad to know the LC8i works, that make things pretty straight forward. However if you using the BOSE amp signal then you've still got all the factory EQ / DSP stuff applied messing up the signal. Instead I would go with a JL Audio Fix: http://www.jlaudio.com/fix-82-car-au...egration-98100
I tried the LC8i first but it just didn't sound right to me. I tried everything but the bass just sounded muddy and uncontrolled on low volume. I went the Audison Bit One route and it made a huge difference in sound. Very clean and nice tight bass. The JL Audio Fix will work as well.
The Bose equalization/signal manipulation is volume dependent. Any DSP or devices like the Fix82 are at set up/tuned one volume making what they do a compromise. The only way to fully get rid of the Bose stuff is to get the NAVTV M650-GM, Axxess AX-DSP-MOST1, or PAC ap4-gm61. The AX-DSP-MOST1 has a built in DSP which can be a plus (DSP included) or a negative (cannot totally defeated to use your preferred DSP). The PAC AP4-GM61 is new to the market and hasn't been proved yet. The M650-GM and reportedly the AP4-GM61 are the only devices currently available that will produce a pure unadulterated output from the OEM sound system.
Great info! The PAC unit is the cheapest solution, plus has outputs at 5V with a subwoofer level control. Sounds like a winner but time will tell since it just launched. I'd keep an eye on this thread: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-ap4-gm61.html I want a flat signal to feed into a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 so I can play with the EQ using my iPad. Currently the RF unit seems to have the best UI for doing this, most other DSP require a laptop hardwired over USB to adjust them.
I tried the LC8i first but it just didn't sound right to me. I tried everything but the bass just sounded muddy and uncontrolled on low volume. I went the Audison Bit One route and it made a huge difference in sound. Very clean and nice tight bass. The JL Audio Fix will work as well.
Do a full insulation kit (not just the carpet mat) in your car and you'll be happy with the Bose audio system. Makes a huge difference. It will take a full day to take everything apart including removing the seats but still way cheaper than any of the options above.
Beautiful work... and great color choice with the green. My heart was set on the blue but when I saw the green I almost changed my mind... notice I said almost
Do a full insulation kit (not just the carpet mat) in your car and you'll be happy with the Bose audio system. Makes a huge difference. It will take a full day to take everything apart including removing the seats but still way cheaper than any of the options above.
Can you provide additional info on "full insulation kit" for an '18 GS? This sounds more attractive than re-doing the sound system. It seems like a good idea to reduce ambient noise before doing anything to the sound system.
Last edited by Tin-can; Aug 20, 2018 at 04:51 PM.
Reason: Added the word "good"
I've done this on two other Vettes with good results. I have started on the third... Vettenuts.net or Crazy Cowboy are sources for insulation kits that are pre-cut for the car. Not an easy task. The removal of the interior is required but the results are worth the effort.
Last edited by 427C62013A; Nov 8, 2018 at 01:35 PM.
Based on my research and past experience with BOSE the statement above is accurate. You have to replace everything because its a system. So the radio stays (it must since it controls other vehicle features), then add a DSP for EQ (equalization) and TA (time alignment), from there add whatever amps you need to power the aftermarket speakers as needed. I would ditch the factory sub for sure. I had an Alpine DSP in my two other vehicles and it sounded amazing!
Just wanted to point out that the 650-gm is now only $499.
I'm shopping for C7's, while simultaneously searching for ways to upgrade the sound system once I have it and came across this thread. This has been a big help. Seemed easier in the C6, but then again, the head unit was easily replaced.