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Not sure I fully follow but think so. Could you drill out the rivet and replace with a nut and bolt? Would that leave enough room.

 

 

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Sounds like what I would try before spending money with the dealer!

Again not sure I am following accurately but sounds like the rivet has worn. Could you get a "C" clamp around and squeeze it a bit?? Perhaps a hammer and punch would bend part of the rivet head to tighten the gap. Don't need the whole rivet head to move just a few points and some grease to stop more wear?? Not sure if what I said makes any sense, you're looking at it!

 

Out in garage to install a MGW shifter. Looked at my Grand Sort and think I see the rivet you're talking about. i'd still try moving the hasp that is connected to the hatch bottom frame. Perhaps you can move it slightly so it doesn't rub.

I recall now you need the proper bit, looks like large Torx. Get one that fits a 1/4 inch drive ratchet wrench. You'll have to use a lot of pressure as I recall as it is tight!
This is what GM recommended as a try to fix the hatch won't latch issue.
Loosen screws and make snug. Then close several times to center hasp in latch. Then tighten. In your case move in whatever direction you ant then tighen. That plate moves all over and is clamped on the lower hatch frame with a plate above.

By the way that did not help me nor did checking the vent thorough the hole behind the license plate etc etc. All worked. But I found it funny, the GM bulletin to dealers said at the end. Lower both windows 3 inches and try to latch. If it does tell owner it's working as designed! Folks were warned at Museaum Delivery in 2013 NOT to push in the center to latch as there were reports of paint cracking! In 2014 I recall at least two forum reports where the lower hatch cracked from pushing to latch!

What is funny is some cars worked fine. There was even a video that showed how (although not sure that fellow did not have the passenger window open!) My favorite statement on posts where folks said I was not strong enough etc etc was "Happiness Is A Tight Vette! (I recall several times posting pics of my home gym where this 75 year old exercises 7 days a week and have been for ~35 years. On back day I do three sets of 10 pull-ups! On arm and chest day I do 3 sets of 10 tricep pushdowns! Can do with 80 pounds but typically use somewhat less! Not trying to build more mussel now, just staying in shape.) Bottom line it was the air pressure in the car that caused the closing issue and the vent operated with the "magic memory wire" GM hyped as so innovative that was just not large enough!

When I sold mine after 3 1/2 years I could still not latch, even slamming to latch. BUT if I had my door open I could stand behind it and from the side with one finger push down on the hatch and it closed and latched! The power of small air pressure differences when over a large area! GM finally gave up and used what I had in my C6, a motorized pull down! Turns out that only added 1 1/2 pounds which was touted the big reason for using the vent in the first place!

 

 

Admittedly, I didn't read all of the above, but if the main functional issue is the lid/hatch "popping up," in similar situations I have gotten or punched-out approximately quarter-sized high-density foam pieces of perhaps 1/2" to 3/4" thick. Then, just silicone two or three in place, one each at a bottom/rear corner (and, sometimes a third in the center) where they are compressed and are out of sight when the lid is closed. If good foam, it will pop-up the unlatched hatch and do so for quite a long time. All the best.

 

 

It was an interesting dilemma for them. They had ~100 IVERS as they were called preproduction cars they operated for a year or so before actual production. Marketing also hyped the "Magic memory wire activated vent" as a weight saver and user of GM's patented technology! Some forum members said it worked fine and there cars did. Was told the hatch gasket will wear in, mine was just not adjusted and others just pushed in the center of the lower hatch frame to latch. One dealer said he had 75% of those he sold with paint cracks from that lower hatch frame cracking! Not sure what percentage of us had the no latch issue but from forum comments by the vocal minority I'd estimate over 25%.

Appears to me cars that worked had air leaks somewhere, hatch or door seals etc. As mentioned when I sold mine after 3 1/2 years you could slam all you could and no latch. With my door open, which I learned to do by habit, I would stand just behind the open door and push down modestly from full height on the side with just enough force to get it started and it closed and latched fine! In fact even on my Grand Sport it will typically not latch with the doors close unless I push slightly down. Not like the push needed in the 2014 where I watched the lower hatch frame bend. However because of my 3 1/2 year learned habit, I often still stand behind my open door and use one hand pushing slightly from full open and it closes and latches every time!

I'm sure GM tried to solve the issue and understand why some cars worked with the magic memory wire rear vent! Just never told us! A book on the C7 innovations said the vent versus motorized pull down saved 1 1/2 pounds! It was in a section showing all things done to cut weight showing 1 1/2 pounds was significant! In fairness, the only solution was probably to made the cars less air tight! They were repainting hatches that had cracked pint and the few reported that had hatch cracks while on warranty. For the 2014/15's now out of warranty I sure would not push to latch if it required any significant force. Having an open door just requires planning! Usually if closing the latch I was getting into of leaving the car. Just close the hatch before the door!

 

^^^
Interesting - thanks for sharing.